Need recommendations for adding cargo weight capacity

The suspension options have gotten confusing and I need a little help sorting some things out.

A little background first:

I am a proud new owner or a DCLB Sport 4 X 4 in White. I was driving a F250 Crew 4 X4 Diesel to give you some reference.

I plan on doing some conservative (I hope) mods for function (beach driving and construction sites) and appearance.

I have a need to increase the cargo capacity (occupants and bed cargo) beyond the 1050lbs my truck is rated for due to some beach driving/camping/fishing I plan to do as described in next sentence.

I frequent the Padre Island National Seashore here in Texas and several times a year I am down there for up to five nights often when the temperature is in the mid 90s F. I sometimes have up to three passengers + me(800lbs), ice (250lbs), kayak and truck rack (100 lbs), + a lot of other stuff = way over 1050lbs.

The beach road is often rutted, soft, and very bouncy witch will exacerbate the stress with a full load much less being overloaded. I have excluded the option of a small trailer, because sometimes the beach is so bad it makes hauling one impossible.

So as I said, I need to increase that load number as much as I can without going crazy on the mods, not really because of costs, but because I really like the look of the DCLB with a 3" ish lift. It is kind of a longish truck and the lift really just gives it a good look while adding the function I need.

I do plan on changing out the tire tires to an AT as big as I can fit without trimming or adding UCA's ( I hope), but if I have to, i have to.

Costs is not really hat big of a deal for me. I just need what I need. I own a construction company with a full time mechanic that can do any installs required.

I would prefer not to be jacked up any more than 3", a little less would be fine. I am not in a huge hurry. I do plan on going solo to the beach in April, but that is a light trip that I plan on going stock.

A longish post, and I am sure I left a few particulars out. Your help would be much appreciated.

 

Your two options are either Timbrens or AirLift Air Bags. Both will help support your loads and prevent excessive sag. A new set of larger shocks like the Bilstein 5100s or Icon 2" shocks would be a good choice to help control the extra weight.

 

But even with upgrades to the suspension - There are other components that may fail if you overload the truck.

Axle seals, brakes, engine and transmission wear. Not to mention, adding bigger tires will sap some power and if you are running off road, you may need the power margin.

If you need to be able to carry that much, you might need to look at an offroad trailer or some other options.

 

Trailer

 

Trailer would probably be best but if not,Airbags definitely should be considered an option.

 

Ok. I see by the responses, that I am going to rethink my travel mode.

Also, I did a bit more checking on the forum and even the rated cargo weight seems to be a bit of a stretch so i have even less capacity than I thought.

Nevertheless, a trailer is out of the question. I see them all the time down there but sometimes they will limit where you can go and when you do get stuck, it makes it that much more fun to get out.

I have the option of shifting some of the load to other trucks. It is just something I have not done before since the F-250 could easily handle the full cargo weight. Even so I would still like something to add some add a bit of weight capacity in addition to the air bags or Timbrens....

...So, I guess this question now is more of a general suspension/lift question.

Here is what I would like to do:

In time I would like to move up from my stock tires (265/65/17)to a slightly larger AT Tire-a 270/70/17 would be fine, and from what I have read, that should pose zero problems with needing after market control arms, using stock rims, and will not require any trimming.

I would like a lift which does not require the UCAs to achieve proper alignment and city performance, and according to my forum research, this can be done with a 2.5" or less in the front, and I am not sure about the back, since I want to/need to "add a leaf" or achieve a little stouter suspension back there, which might result in a raked appearance which is OK. Plus I am not sure how air bags would play into this.

It looks like I need a shock and coil package up front, please recommend something.

In back, in addition to air bags (this is the direction I am leaning, since I already have a 12V Puma Air Compressor-which I highly recommend BTW-I also like the flexibility and additional leverage for towing should that need arise), looks like I need shocks and a stouter leaf package, please recommend in light of above requirements.

Once again, install is not an issue since I have a mechanic on staff. Thanks in advance.

 

You can not change the rated cargo capacity of the vehicle. You can, however, change how the vehicle handles weight. I would look into a full OME kit, 885 coils up front and Dakar leaf springs for the rear. They will handle weight substantially better than your stock leaf springs and the kit will give you the lift you're looking for. This also allows you to handle loads better without the use of an air bag system.

Have you considered an off road trailer? A good off road trailer should have good ground clearance, will articulate well (not the typical pintle or ball hitch) and should track the vehicle well. Think military-style trailer.

 

First two paragraphs bring up a good point...the need for a full floating axle and a leaf pack & transmission that can handle the weight...like the F-250 had.

 

http://www.truckspring.com/products/Firestone-Ride-Rite-Air-Spring-Kit---Rear__2407.aspx

 

I concur

 

Yes, I have come to realize that changing the load capacity is not going to happen. I have also come to realize that even achieving anything close to load capacity will also be a bit dicey. You are spot on with the notion in your recommendation-which is you do what you can.

Are those Nitro Shocks pretty good? I see a lot of love for the Billy 5100s on here.

Also, are you thinking the OME kit will do the trick without the air bags? I suppose if the OME doesn't fulfill my wildest expectations, I can always add the bags.

 

You mentioned somewhere in your post that you may want a smaller than 3" lift and to hopefully avoid the need of new UCA's. With a 2" lift there is a good chance you can get away with that. There is a 2" lift kit from Ironman 4x4 available that some members installed. 3" lift is by far the most popular so I think this one gets missed often.

Just figured I'll post it to give you another option. I don't have it and don't know how would it handle in you situation, but seem like you have lots of time left for research so here you go.

I'm sure others would chime in if this is not a good suggestions.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/product-reviews/232763-ironman-4x4-2-lift.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/219608-ironman-lift.html

 

I have not heard anything negative about the OME Nitrocharger shocks. A lot of people, including myself, do run the 5100's but the OME kit is a quality kit. The 5100's are a bit cheaper to get lifted which is partially why they're so popular (since they re-use your stock coils).

The OME kit should do the trick without air bags. I believe it's a 7 leaf pack with dual overload leafs so you'll be hard pressed to bottom them out. If you feel you do need more, then you can always add air bags later on but I'd say you'd have to seriously overload the truck before you can honestly say that the Dakars aren't enough.

 

i noticed you are in austin, i am going to try to run out there on monday to possibly pick up a yeti cooler from their scratch and dent selection. i have a full OME setup if you want to go for a spin, or load it down to see how it handles the weight.

 

Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. From my recollection the Yeti store is just east of I-35 in the downtown area. My office/yard is not far from there.

Also. I have a Yeti 45 and a Brute Box 75. They were the same price retail and are virtually the same cooler except the Brute is much larger. The Yeti 2nds store has some pretty good deals, but Brute will ship to you door.

If we meet, hopefully, I can bring the brute and show you the cooler, so you have some options for next time. There are also some discount codes on the fishing forums which can save you the cost of shipping.

 

awesome, im all about saving some money! i will shoot you a PM once i figure out what day ill be heading out. I am looking at the yeti 75, hoping they have a scratch/dent one that size so i can save a few bucks

 

In case it matters, the Brute 75 was about $300 + shipping-discount=~300. +tax.

 

Thanks for the additional option. I have looked it up, but forgotten everything already-but it does lead me to...

Getting away without adding aftermarket UCA's is the goal.

However, there is getting away with, and actually having the truck perform well, even with and OME lift kit (2" in front if I read things correctly (+1.75" for the assembly and +1/4"ish for a bushing or adapter or something)).

I guess the question is, would it be wise to add the UCAs even on a 2" lift (front) and even more in the back (kit is 2.75" I believe), while I have the truck in for the other stuff. Also, consider I would changing the tire size eventually to a 265/70/17 which would add an additional 1/2"ish in height (non lift height, but I gotta ask). Thanks again.

 

My understanding is (and I'm no lift expert) that those UCA's will help you get alignment in spec, so with 2" lift it would be nice to have them, but not necessary. Again, wait for someone to confirm this! lol

I think 265/70/17 would be perfect size for that kind of lift. Visually and functionally. You will also get 0.5" lift from the tires.

265/75/16 and 265/70/17 which are same overall size are the largest tire on a stock truck, so it will be fine.

 

The lift you gain with the tire size will not affect alignment so that doesn't come into play when talking about UCA's.

I'll start out by saying every truck seems to be different and each driver's opinion on how the truck handles seems to vary as well. That being said, you should not need new UCA's for a 2" lift. Generally speaking, 2" and under you will not need new UCA's and should be able to get good alignment numbers with the stock parts. 2-2.5" of lift seems to be the gray area as to whether or not you should plan on getting new UCAs. There are plenty of members at 2" with new UCA's and just as many at 2.5" of lift running stock UCA's. Between 2.5 and 3" of lift, you should really plan on needing new UCAs to get a proper alignment and make the truck handle as it should.