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Old 06-19-2013, 11:56 AM   #21
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After reading through the threads on installing the shocks it seems I will need a tie rod end puller. If so is that something I can rent from autozone or advanced auto? Also bjmoose's write up on the ome lift install showed him using a pry bar to install the new shock/coil assembly up front. Wouldn't a spring compression tool have made it easier ? He later noticed that the lower control arm pivot had damage on the flange and sild down and left slightly. If I am wrong in needing a spring compression tool please let me know.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
After reading through the threads on installing the shocks it seems I will need a tie rod end puller. If so is that something I can rent from autozone or advanced auto? Also bjmoose's write up on the ome lift install showed him using a pry bar to install the new shock/coil assembly up front. Wouldn't a spring compression tool have made it easier ? He later noticed that the lower control arm pivot had damage on the flange and sild down and left slightly. If I am wrong in needing a spring compression tool please let me know.
I didn't take apart my tie rod. Just unbolt the lower ball joint mount from the spindle.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:25 PM   #23
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On my prerunner , I didn't touch lower balljoint or tierod. Used shovel handle to pry down lower control arm while simultaneously using big screwdriver to wedge the assembled strut into its mounting pocket. If you have 4x4 of course there is the shaft to get by so you may have to loosen those other parts. Honestly not bad to install. Even if the LCA bolts slide it's ok because you'll need an alignment anyhow and those will get adjusted
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:24 PM   #24
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Ok cool. so sounds like a spring compression tool and tie rod end puller is not necessary. Iv'e read there are three ways to get to the front shock remove tie rod end, remove lca from spindle or remove uca from spindle. Ill just say fuck the tie rod end and remove the lca end from the spindle to gain access. I'm picking up a click torque wrench rated 20-200 ft lbs tomorrow. Now the brake line bolts get torqued to 7/8 ft lbs I believe this is so minuscule of a torque value I figure there's no point to buying a low rated torque wrench for these bolts any thoughts?

Thanks for the help!! bc of you guys I'm definitely installing this instead of bringing it to someone.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:56 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
Thanks for the help!! bc of you guys I'm definitely installing this instead of bringing it to someone.
I was talked into it too. Got my kit delivered on Monday, got a guy from work coming over Sunday to help me install my LR UCAs, OME 885s, my Dakars and extended rear brake lines.

Can't wait!
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:01 PM   #26
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Where in western mass are you? I installed the same kit on my truck myself. I was in your shoes, didn't have much experience, but I'm a carpenter so I'm good with tools. Do it yourself and save some money. I might be willing to help, there a few other local mass guys that are always willing to help also.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
Ok cool. so sounds like a spring compression tool and tie rod end puller is not necessary. Iv'e read there are three ways to get to the front shock remove tie rod end, remove lca from spindle or remove uca from spindle. Ill just say fuck the tie rod end and remove the lca end from the spindle to gain access. I'm picking up a click torque wrench rated 20-200 ft lbs tomorrow. Now the brake line bolts get torqued to 7/8 ft lbs I believe this is so minuscule of a torque value I figure there's no point to buying a low rated torque wrench for these bolts any thoughts?

Thanks for the help!! bc of you guys I'm definitely installing this instead of bringing it to someone.

Yep remove the spindle from both control arms and hang it out of the way. If you have a 1/4" ratchet that will be fine for the brake line bolts.
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Old 06-19-2013, 05:23 PM   #28
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I live in longmeadow on the state line right by enfield. Ill have the tools and if your willing to lend a hand that would be much appreciated. I'd be willing to throw you some greenbacks and order some food maybe, throw a few back. I will be ordering the ome kit and uca's in 2 days!!!! I can't f"$&ing wait!
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
I live in longmeadow on the state line right by enfield. Ill have the tools and if your willing to lend a hand that would be much appreciated. I'd be willing to throw you some greenbacks and order some food maybe, throw a few back. I will be ordering the ome kit and uca's in 2 days!!!! I can't f"$&ing wait!
Thats less than an hour from me. I might be able to help out depending on the day. Theres a few other guys in the chicopee area that might be willing to help to, we could probably bang it out in a couple hours with a few guys. More time to drink beer there is tons of guys over towards the boston area that always help eachother out and do mod days. Weve actually been talking about doing a mod day in the New england BS thread.
Headstrong offroad has the best price around on LR UCAs. Make sure you have a 32mm socket to install them.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:21 PM   #30
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Also, you dont really need to mess with the LCA. The way i did it was remove skid plate then sway bar, pull the UCAs (probably the hardest part of the install becasue of the long bolt) pull the old shock/strut assembly. Then intsall in the reverse order. I bought some cheap spring compressors and disassembled the stock coilovers and assembled the OME ones with the stock top hat. Which is kinda sketchy with cheap spring compressors. Getting them pre-assembled saves alot of time and makes the process alot safer.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:16 PM   #31
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Sounds good. I can let you know on the day in advance. I am getting the fronts pre assembled. Ill look at headstrong offroad for the uca's. I found fat bobs garage selling them for 379.99. I ll post a new thread seeing if anyone else in western mass area is willing to give me a hand I have a friend without any real knowledge willing to be around to help. Thanks for the insight.
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:17 PM   #32
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headstrong is $375 shipped
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #33
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headstrong is $375 shipped

Purchasing lift today! Did you buy the ome complete kit through headstrong as well? Just waiting on them to call me back with a shipping quote.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:12 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
Purchasing lift today! Did you buy the ome complete kit through headstrong as well? Just waiting on them to call me back with a shipping quote.
I went through down south motorsports. $1150 shipped. But they don't include bushings for the dakars like toytec does, and they don't pre assemble the shocks/springs. If you use headstrong you might want to ask about the bushings.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:34 PM   #35
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lift update

Thanks to you guys I successfully installed my ome lift and lr uca's without any problems. It took two days. Started at about 3 when it was delivered via FedEx and finished the rear before dark so about 4 hours working time with a buddy once it was unboxed. The next day I worked on the front by myself and was able to get the lr uca's, front shocks and sway bar relocate don't ask me why I did this it wasn't necessary all done in 6 hours approx. Everything was simple and straight forward minus some bending of the inner fender for some clearance on the long bolt for the uca's. Alignment was done the next day. My cousin is a service manager at town fair in enfield CT and hooked me up for 20 bucks cash to one of his techs. Numbers look alright everything was within specs and all bolts torqued and rechecked within the first 50 miles and once so far thereafter.

Front Left Front Right

Camber 0.5 Camber 0.4
Caster 2.2 Caster 2.1
Toe 0.3 Toe 0.3

Front
Total Toe .06
Steer Ahead 0.00

Rear Left Rear Right

Camber -0.1 Camber -0.4
Toe 0.19 Toe -0.5

Rear
Total Toe 0.14
Thrust Angle 0.12

I need to measure my center hub to fender again on front an rear but it looks level from all angles. The driver rear was at 24 3/4 " I believe and the driver front was at 24 5/8". So far I am happy with the results I've gone off roading since and its night and day from my stock suspension. Especially having the dura trac's as well I was surprised how easily the truck handled water holes that were about 4 feet deep in some spots. It mud bogs like no other. I do have some driveline vibes though at certain speed ranges. I need to measure from flange to flange top and bottom and most likely get some shims once I do the math on which degree shims I'm gonna need or do the cb drop. Posting pictures tomorrow.

Thanks again to all tw members who chimed in on here I saved good ching and feel content knowing that everything was done right and can be confident doing any other suspension work in the future.

Peace out and go Silva UFC TIME!
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