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Old 06-18-2013, 09:08 AM   #1
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Suspension Help

I'll probably get sh** for not installing my ome lift myself but here goes. I'm purchasing an ome complete lift with front shocks (9000's), front coils (885's), rear shocks (n182's), aal 2" toytec standard, lr uca's, front top plate spacers for a full 3", trim packer, new center bolts and bushings with no diff drop, and considering sway bar removal or relocate. My question has two parts.

1. Will 885 coils support an all pro bumper or similar if I change in the future or do I have to have the spacers removed and 886's put in for that?

2. I've gotten some quotes from 700 dollars and it would take the guy a week to a 500 dollar quote and it would take a couple days. I'm waiting on one more quote from a guy I work with. Also fyi I haven't called any auto shops in fear the price for install would be outrageous. Am I being naive in not attempting this myself ? I have 3 ton jacks and all the tools at my disposal minus torque set wrenches and a compression spring tool. Ive heard you can rent them from auto zone for next to nothing. Need advice on the route to take. This is the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on the lift purchase.


Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:16 AM   #2
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1. the 885's will be ok with just a bumper, now if you go and start adding skids and winch sliders etc you'll need the 886's

2. All shops are gonna be high are their installation process. If you have all the tools, space, time and a buddy you can knock it out in a day. I'd have them preassembled the fronts. You can have each side done from start to finish in under an hour. The rear is maybe 2-3 hours depending on your skill level.

Take a look at these links they have step by step pics and directions from other members. If you think you can do it you'll save yourself a nice chunk of change

front ome
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...ines-pics.html

AAL
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...econd-gen.html

uca
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...w-install.html
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:17 AM   #3
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Don't let the ppl who said it would take a week, or couple days touch ur truck.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #4
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Yes if you have the tools and a basic understanding of what youre doing, then get a friend to help you and you could knock it out in a day. There are a lot of suspension write ups on here along with tons of photos. Just remember you will need an alignment once your done. And like BulletToothTony said, get them to pre assemble the fronts and that will save some time and hassle.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BulletToothTony View Post
1. the 885's will be ok with just a bumper, now if you go and start adding skids and winch sliders etc you'll need the 886's

2. All shops are gonna be high are their installation process. If you have all the tools, space, time and a buddy you can knock it out in a day. I'd have them preassembled the fronts. You can have each side done from start to finish in under an hour. The rear is maybe 2-3 hours depending on your skill level.

Take a look at these links they have step by step pics and directions from other members. If you think you can do it you'll save yourself a nice chunk of change

front ome
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...ines-pics.html

AAL
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...econd-gen.html

uca
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...w-install.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus View Post
Don't let the ppl who said it would take a week, or couple days touch ur truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by drunktaco View Post
Yes if you have the tools and a basic understanding of what youre doing, then get a friend to help you and you could knock it out in a day. There are a lot of suspension write ups on here along with tons of photos. Just remember you will need an alignment once your done. And like BulletToothTony said, get them to pre assemble the fronts and that will save some time and hassle.
What these guys said. I had never done a suspension replacement before but am decent mechanically, and did it myself using write-ups (studied them a lot before attempting). I had the springs compressed at a shop with the proper compressor, that installed the assembled units myself. I didn't trust the compressors I could find locally to rent.

That said, the LR UCAs will bee the trickiest part mechanically. I have not done this, but have looked into it. Mainly, pressing out the old balljoint and then seating the new adapter for the LR design.

Check out this video, especially starting at 4 minutes:

http://spc-tv.com/install/lt-suv/65-...trol-arms.html
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:47 AM   #6
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The lr uca install isn't fun, but get a manual press from auto zone (tool loaner program) and you don't need an air compressor and air hammer like they show in the video. Also another thought is you have rubber LCA bushings. I changed mine to urethane to match the UCA.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scocar View Post
What these guys said. I had never done a suspension replacement before but am decent mechanically, and did it myself using write-ups (studied them a lot before attempting). I had the springs compressed at a shop with the proper compressor, that installed the assembled units myself. I didn't trust the compressors I could find locally to rent.

That said, the LR UCAs will bee the trickiest part mechanically. I have not done this, but have looked into it. Mainly, pressing out the old balljoint and then seating the new adapter for the LR design.

Check out this video, especially starting at 4 minutes:

http://spc-tv.com/install/lt-suv/65-...trol-arms.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdj1 View Post
The lr uca install isn't fun, but get a manual press from auto zone (tool loaner program) and you don't need an air compressor and air hammer like they show in the video. Also another thought is you have rubber LCA bushings. I changed mine to urethane to match the UCA.
OP The LR UCAs are a breeze. Yes airtools make things easier but are by no means necessary. To remove the balljoint just loosen the nut to the end of the balljoint stud and smack the spindle with a hammer, pop, done. To get the "Long Bolt" out you can bend the inner fender, don't worry about it you can't see it, and if your careful it won't chip the paint at all.

The guys saying about removing the balljoint have 1st gens, and that video is for 1st gens. I assume your Left-side profile are correct in saying you have a 2010. Here is the correct video.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:27 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman614 View Post
OP The LR UCAs are a breeze. Yes airtools make things easier but are by no means necessary. To remove the balljoint just loosen the nut to the end of the balljoint stud and smack the spindle with a hammer, pop, done. To get the "Long Bolt" out you can bend the inner fender, don't worry about it you can't see it, and if your careful it won't chip the paint at all.

The guys saying about removing the balljoint have 1st gens, and that video is for 1st gens. I assume your Left-side profile are correct in saying you have a 2010. Here is the correct video.
Good catch on the 1st gen/2nd gen balljoint
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman614 View Post
OP The LR UCAs are a breeze. Yes airtools make things easier but are by no means necessary. To remove the balljoint just loosen the nut to the end of the balljoint stud and smack the spindle with a hammer, pop, done. To get the "Long Bolt" out you can bend the inner fender, don't worry about it you can't see it, and if your careful it won't chip the paint at all.

The guys saying about removing the balljoint have 1st gens, and that video is for 1st gens. I assume your Left-side profile are correct in saying you have a 2010. Here is the correct video.
Oh shit, you guys don't have an adapter slug for the top of the spindle? Nice. Sorry about the vid. I figured they were essentially the same (they are), but that one detail makes a difference.

So OP, you should now know what you are in for.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scocar View Post
Oh shit, you guys don't have an adapter slug for the top of the spindle? Nice. Sorry about the vid. I figured they were essentially the same (they are), but that one detail makes a difference.

So OP, you should now know what you are in for.
Yep, just a few little differences.

OP if have the time, tools and a friend, save the money. Spend the extra to get the front shocks and coils assembled.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:10 AM   #11
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The coilover should be pretty easy to do if you get it assembled somewhere. The LR uca install isn't too bad once you get the old ucas out. Rear shocks should only be like two bolts to take out the old ones and should be pretty easy. The aal install shouldn't be terrible either. Make sure you coat the all the bolts in pb blaster or something for a few days before doing the install.

All the issues that happened when I was installing my suspension involved rusted on bolts otherwise it went pretty smoothly. The upper ball joint on the driver's side for me didn't press out so I ended up cutting it off. My truck is a 2003 so I feel like you won't experience these issues with your 2010 so much.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmok View Post
The coilover should be pretty easy to do if you get it assembled somewhere. The LR uca install isn't too bad once you get the old ucas out. Rear shocks should only be like two bolts to take out the old ones and should be pretty easy. The aal install shouldn't be terrible either. Make sure you coat the all the bolts in pb blaster or something for a few days before doing the install.

All the issues that happened when I was installing my suspension involved rusted on bolts otherwise it went pretty smoothly. The upper ball joint on the driver's side for me didn't press out so I ended up cutting it off. My truck is a 2003 so I feel like you won't experience these issues with your 2010 so much.
Everything except what's in red is spot of for your(OP) 2nd gen.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman614 View Post
Everything except what's in red is spot of for your(OP) 2nd gen.
Does the stock uca ball joint just unbolt? That's what it looks like in another thread.



OP, Here are some good stickys in the suspension section for installations:

UCA It's for TC UCAs but it should be similar and shows you removal of the stock uca.

OME install

AAL install
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by kmok View Post
Does the stock uca ball joint just unbolt? That's what it looks like in another thread.
It's upside down from your truck. The Balljoint is pressed into the UCA, and bolted to the spindle.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandman614 View Post
It's upside down from your truck. The Balljoint is pressed into the UCA, and bolted to the spindle.
Oh, got it. That sounds much easier than the way 1st gens ucas are setup if you're replacing the entire uca. Man that job was a PITA
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:49 AM   #16
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thanks for all the great info. You guys are awesome help . I am mechanically inclined I'd like to think. I do a lot of carpentry work which I know is different but takes problem solving to accomplish a nice end result. A pic of the truck as it sits right now.

Suspension Help-001.jpg


If I pay the 100 bucks to have everything assembled bushings and front shock/coil. I wouldn't need the compression tool and I'm guessing the only tool I don't have is a torque wrench. That being said what is best for torquing these bolts a dial(beam) wrench, or audible(click) torque wrench just curious to what others have had success with.
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by SilverStreakTaco View Post
thanks for all the great info. You guys are awesome help . I am mechanically inclined I'd like to think. I do a lot of carpentry work which I know is different but takes problem solving to accomplish a nice end result. A pic of the truck as it sits right now.

Attachment 218492


If I pay the 100 bucks to have everything assembled bushings and front shock/coil. I wouldn't need the compression tool and I'm guessing the only tool I don't have is a torque wrench. That being said what is best for torquing these bolts a dial(beam) wrench, or audible(click) torque wrench just curious to what others have had success with.
Truck looks good. You got it! I've got the 3/8" click from Harbor Freight.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:08 PM   #18
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I use a 1/2 inch drive click style. If I remember correctly from my install in Jan, you'll need 1-1/4 inch socket for the LR UCA and it torques to 150 ftlb. That's for top nut that holds balljoint in the slot. Did my install in a day by myself.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by totmacher View Post
I use a 1/2 inch drive click style. If I remember correctly from my install in Jan, you'll need 1-1/4 inch socket for the LR UCA and it torques to 150 ftlb. That's for top nut that holds balljoint in the slot. Did my install in a day by myself.
Yea that sucker is huge, I believe that size is right.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:26 PM   #20
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Yeah I have an old SnapOn 200-lb 1/2 inch clicker I bought used and then had recalibrated by SnapOn. Good as new.

Keep in mind that torque wrenches are best used short of their limits for the sake of accuracy and not damaging the tool. For example, you should not use a torque wrench with a 100 f/p max capacity on a 100 f/p fastener. I think 80% of capacity is the guideline (IIRC), so you want to use a 100 f/p wrench on an 80 f/p fastener, for examaple.

Bottom line, figure out the highest torque setting you need in advance before you rent or purchase the torque wrench. Equally important, check clearances and access to actually get the damn thing on the nuts/bolts! I bought a couple of adapter extensions for mine. Front spring hanger bolt was right next to the gas tank.
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