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Flattened alginment gusset tab. Need advice on the TC gussets

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Old 12-04-2013, 07:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinb17 View Post
i tighten the hell out of the bolts for my lowers, to the point that i don't use a torque wrench on them anymore. they moved all over the place at factory spec. now they stay put nicely.
Looks Like I will get the tab welded and re aligned and see where it goes from here
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:11 AM   #22
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i bent my tab back, and welded gussets that go right against the outside of the tab.

when i took off my stock LCAs they were seized. had to use a plasma cutter on all 4 bolts.
good luck.

you have a new truck though, yours shouldnt be stuck. should be a easy job.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:31 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradyT88 View Post
The problem here, is that the cam tab was flattened because the tension didn't hold the bolts in place... Unless your alignment guy or a rock flattened them I guess...

I find it odd that so many people have this problem though... I abuse the hell out my rig and my cam tabs are just fine. I have purchased the TC cam tab gussets though, just to be safe now that I am going to have an LT rear and got new shocks for up front. I assume that since the alignment tech who did my alignment last weekend didn't say anything and got it aligned to spec that my cam tabs aren't seized though.
My tabs got flattened when I was trying to break the alignment bolts free. The bolts have never slid on me although I know there are a lot of people who run their truck a lot harder than I do.

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Originally Posted by mattmxracer View Post
Well here are my options
1. Buy used LCA's and replace bushing and bolts. 100 LCA's 120 BUSHINGS, 40 BOLTS. Bend tab back and weld beam on outside of tab

2. Buy new passenger LCA (360) and have welder bend the only tab that is bent and weld a bead on the outside

3. Buy TC gussets and replace all the LCA's, around 900 dollars

4. Have welder bend only tab that is bent back and align for around 100 dollars. ( and pray the heat from the weld will not burn the bushing.
I would just bend the tab back and put a bead on the outside of each tab to hold them. If you do the bead in stages and not a continuous weld, it won't burn up the bushings. I burned my bushings out and they take a LOT of heat to make them fail.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinb17 View Post
i tighten the hell out of the bolts for my lowers, to the point that i don't use a torque wrench on them anymore. they moved all over the place at factory spec. now they stay put nicely.
There's some actual evidence. haha. I haven't messed with mine so I just couldn't commit 100% to what I was saying. haha
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
My tabs got flattened when I was trying to break the alignment bolts free. The bolts have never slid on me although I know there are a lot of people who run their truck a lot harder than I do.
That I could see, especially if they were seized like you said.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:45 AM   #25
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Going to get the shop to weld the tab back in place and pray it doesnt hurt the bushing. Then get it ailgned, Love my toyota dealer because they are letting me use the lifts in the shop and help the tech out that welds and tell him exactly what I want. May invest in new lcas in the future but if I can do a cheap fix and it last.....why not?
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnercaged View Post
i bent my tab back, and welded gussets that go right against the outside of the tab.

when i took off my stock LCAs they were seized. had to use a plasma cutter on all 4 bolts.
good luck.

you have a new truck though, yours shouldnt be stuck. should be a easy job.
I think they stuck, truck is a 08 and been through some rough weather
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:00 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmxracer View Post
I think they stuck, truck is a 08 and been through some rough weather
think? why? just beause your truck has been through bad weather? it takes quite a bit to make them rust in place. mostly on older vehicles.
dont get me wrong it may be stuck, but i wouldnt just assume it is!!

dont run 1 continuius bead and it wont get hot enough to fuck up the bushing. just do a 1/4 inch bead, swap to the other side, do a 1/4 inch bead, then go back to the other side, and repeat until complete.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:24 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnercaged View Post
think? why? just beause your truck has been through bad weather? it takes quite a bit to make them rust in place. mostly on older vehicles.
dont get me wrong it may be stuck, but i wouldnt just assume it is!!

dont run 1 continuius bead and it wont get hot enough to fuck up the bushing. just do a 1/4 inch bead, swap to the other side, do a 1/4 inch bead, then go back to the other side, and repeat until complete.
When I installed my lift they wouldnt budge at all and the bolt was twisting with the bushing. If I need new LCA's camelback toyota has them for a reasonable price.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:22 PM   #29
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I would at least try and remove them. The tab should be easy stuff.

Not sure of what methods besides cutting or hammer that folks have tried, but I would expect an air hammer driving and a heavy block on the backside should get the bolt free.

Then you should be able to grease them and do a proper alignment.

Honestly you don't even need the cams. I have been tempted to just install high grade bolts and locknuts that can torque higher. The aligning would then be done via a prybar.

PK
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:30 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK View Post
I would at least try and remove them. The tab should be easy stuff.

Not sure of what methods besides cutting or hammer that folks have tried, but I would expect an air hammer driving and a heavy block on the backside should get the bolt free.

Then you should be able to grease them and do a proper alignment.

Honestly you don't even need the cams. I have been tempted to just install high grade bolts and locknuts that can torque higher. The aligning would then be done via a prybar.

PK
If you are going to go to that much trouble get some Light Racing UCA's. You can adjust camber and caster off of them to align it and torque it down pretty tight. Then just weld the cams in place.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:31 PM   #31
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just installed the tc cam tab gussets. also installed moog bushings for the lca and they are like 13 bucks apiece. didnt have any issue other than the fronts on each size were siezed but a sawzall took care of the bolts. once we got the old bushings out new ones went right in with no problem. the rear bolts were reused and the fronts i had installed were the moog greaseable. will be getting an alignment this fri.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:14 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrmathis View Post
just installed the tc cam tab gussets. also installed moog bushings for the lca and they are like 13 bucks apiece. didnt have any issue other than the fronts on each size were siezed but a sawzall took care of the bolts. once we got the old bushings out new ones went right in with no problem. the rear bolts were reused and the fronts i had installed were the moog greaseable. will be getting an alignment this fri.
About how long did it take you to do the gussets? Just grind old ones off and weld new ones? I didnt realize those bushings were that cheap. Do you have a link for these bushings? Thanks in advance
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:15 AM   #33
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Flattened alginment gusset tab. Need advice on the TC gussets

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmxracer View Post
About how long did it take you to do the gussets? Just grind old ones off and weld new ones? I didnt realize those bushings were that cheap. Do you have a link for these bushings? Thanks in advance
It didn't take Barry long. U have to drill the spot welds in the old ones then use a chisel to get the old ones off. Putting the came tab gussets took about half aday if that. Now getting the old bushings out is the shit ass part.

Read this thread on gettin the bushings out http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/3691528-post.html

I got the moog bushings from rock auto. I'll get the part numbers

MOOG K200772 Control Arm Bushing
MOOG K200773 Control Arm Bushing
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:01 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by wrmathis View Post
It didn't take Barry long. U have to drill the spot welds in the old ones then use a chisel to get the old ones off. Putting the came tab gussets took about half aday if that. Now getting the old bushings out is the shit ass part.

Read this thread on gettin the bushings out http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/3691528-post.html

I got the moog bushings from rock auto. I'll get the part numbers

MOOG K200772 Control Arm Bushing
MOOG K200773 Control Arm Bushing
Thank you. Going to have the tab tack welded on the side where its bent and if others get flattened then I will get the gussets. Thinking of replacing the control arm with the mevotech lca with bushings already installed for 145 shipped. Replacing the passenger side and I will go from there if more problems occur. Thanks for the part numbers. Going to get the bushings while I have the old control arms out and replace them if the mevotech goes south.
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:50 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMK View Post
I would at least try and remove them. The tab should be easy stuff.

Not sure of what methods besides cutting or hammer that folks have tried, but I would expect an air hammer driving and a heavy block on the backside should get the bolt free.

Then you should be able to grease them and do a proper alignment.

Honestly you don't even need the cams. I have been tempted to just install high grade bolts and locknuts that can torque higher. The aligning would then be done via a prybar.

PK
i have tried sawzall and a air hammer, neither worked for mine.
well the sawzall went through 1 out of 4, but with like 5 harbor freight blades. im sure if you have a good blade it would be much easier.

we used a plasma cutter, made it like cake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmxracer View Post
About how long did it take you to do the gussets? Just grind old ones off and weld new ones? I didnt realize those bushings were that cheap. Do you have a link for these bushings? Thanks in advance
keep in mine the bushings need to be pressed in.

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Originally Posted by mattmxracer View Post
Thank you. Going to have the tab tack welded on the side where its bent and if others get flattened then I will get the gussets. Thinking of replacing the control arm with the mevotech lca with bushings already installed for 145 shipped. Replacing the passenger side and I will go from there if more problems occur. Thanks for the part numbers. Going to get the bushings while I have the old control arms out and replace them if the mevotech goes south.
why are you so set on replacing your lower control arms?
if they are seized, thats all in the bushing.
i would not worry about replacing the lower control arms, they would just be a waste of $$$
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:25 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnercaged View Post
why are you so set on replacing your lower control arms?
if they are seized, thats all in the bushing.
i would not worry about replacing the lower control arms, they would just be a waste of $$$
If I can only spend 140 on one LCA then that beats the headache of having to cut the bushings out and Im worried I will cut to far and screw something out and its also a time thing. Im able to use the lifts at my toyota dealer but I have no idea how to weld so I need one of their welders after I get my LCA's out. Theres a chance I could spend all day getting the bushings out and putting new ones in. I would like to make it a little easier on myself but I would like the cheapest most reliable fix
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:41 AM   #37
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the bushings you dont cut out, you need to press those out. what you need to cut is the actual bolt inbetween the arm and the tab.
you cant cut too far!

i hear ya on making it easier, but it would really only save you a little bit of time. once the control arms are off the truck, getting the old bushings out and the new ones in is cake as long as you have a press!
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:54 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runnercaged View Post
the bushings you dont cut out, you need to press those out. what you need to cut is the actual bolt inbetween the arm and the tab.
you cant cut too far!

i hear ya on making it easier, but it would really only save you a little bit of time. once the control arms are off the truck, getting the old bushings out and the new ones in is cake as long as you have a press!
Yeah they don't just press out very easy. Pretty much have to cut them out
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:59 AM   #39
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we used an air chisel and a press and they came out pretty easy for me, as in 10 minutes..
i guess i just dont see the need to get new arms just cause of bushings, but to each their own.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:02 AM   #40
The Sticker Guy
ruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shedruggedT is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Joined: Jun 2011, #58788
Location: Midlothian, Va
Age: 30
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Dont know if you figured out your problem. I tacked all 4 of my adjusters in place. Nothing was holding them since the tabs were flat and they had the wrong size cams. Figured if I needed another alignment I would cut the tacks with a dremmel or something. Or just buy new set of cam's... found them for like $30. They never moved after the tack's.


For the bushings. Use a muffler/panel cutter on the air chisel. Just cut the bushing steel and punch it inward with the hole on the bottom. Do not grease them when you re-install

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