Lift options in addition to already installed OME

Roger, I'm tracking on the aftermarket UCA's but I'm really nervous about trimming something like cab mounts....and what is this welding you speak of? Thought it was just chopping.

 

Welding plates back on to cover what you chopped though I have seen others without the plates and theirs seems to be fine. I prefer to cover it back up. Vendor BAMF sells the plates. Preferrable to have the plates before you chop so you know how much to chop.

Depending on where you are, there might be a place that does the CMC's. Usually run about $100-150

 

I got what your saying, you might upgrade UCAs assuming the extra lift will make your alignment that much harder to get into spec. There is a reason why i asked, increasing caster at the top of the spidle (at the UCA) will move the wheel back in the wheel well, closer to the body mount, so you are more likely to need the CMC. That is not a good reason to not install aftermarket UCAs though, the CMC is really not that big of a deal, and you can cut it yourself with a sawzall or grinder and have it boxed and welded at a later date (disclaimer: it will weaken your body mount if not boxed back in)
Every truck is different but my setup with LR UCAs, OME 885s, 285/70/17 on a -10mm offset wheel had me rubbing the cab mount during normal driving. The great thing about LR UCAs is they are fully adjustable, so find a good alignment guy and he might be able to get you a good amount of caster without moving the wheel to far back, it seems like more people are using the +1* position on the UCAs to accomplish this.
Also you need to consider backspacing/offset, most likely those wheels you are looking at will come with -12mm offset. You will have to trim with 285s if you flex the suspension and turn they will rub.
Have you considered 255/85/16 on your stock wheels? This setup would probably require less servere trimming while still giving you a tall tire.

 

I have XD revolvers with the -12 offset but I also have my LR UCA's set at the +1 with my caster at 2.5/2.6 as that's the farthest I can set it to without having to adjust at the UCA's. Like I said, minor rub at flex with 285 but that's before CMC.

 

If I was to do this I am a non-welding SOB. I would need someone to do it for me and around here in the Northeast there arent too many shops that would be willing to chop the mounts.

 

I have been considering the 255/85/16. I am not thrilled about the look of the skinny tire considering how far out the tires will be to clear the UCA's once this is all together. Thank you for this info, all this helps me by avoiding hours of forum searches.

 

I will refer to this if I decide on the 285's. How much rub are we talking? If I was to flex would it rub so bad it would damage tires...etc?

 

Tires just rubs enough to strip the paint off the corner of the mounts but I really recommend cutting them as if you do it enough, it will ruin your tires. You can either cut them or grind them down. Harbor Freight sells an angle grinder for $15. You can get the plates welded at a later time.

Or you can just leave it as is as long as you are aware that during a flex/turn that it will probably rub and at full lock backing up then you should be good without a chop.

 

Great thanks for the advice looks like its go big or go home...I will attach pics as soon as I do the install this spring.

 

If you go the Camburg UCA route, get them with the ball joints already installed. I spent a lot of time getting the factory BJs out and installed into the Camburgs. It's all about keeping the boot intact. Like them a lot though. The caps will keep mud off your UBJ grease fitting


I went with the black FJ wheels. Reasonable price and you know they will fit correctly. As far as rubbing, it may not be THAT bad. Turned and stuffed it's gonna rub with 33s. Sell your mud flaps on eBay and you can get decent bucks for them. They will remove themselves if you don't take them off.
Good luck! Gonna be sweet.