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Old 05-29-2014, 08:27 AM   #481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by double_b View Post
Wanted to give my method for installing my pre-assembled coil overs from Wheelers. They were OME884 with Bilstein 5100s.

I had a buddy who is a body man(for 30 years) help me. I explained to him the several different ways of doing the front coil over removal and install from here on TW. I liked the method of loosening the cam bolts and removing the two bolts from the LCA and ball joint "knuckle".

We did a little bit of each method in this thread. By a little bit we basically did one step only from each method.

First: We removed the sway bar brackets to allow the sway bar some room to move out of the way. Only the brackets not the joint.

Second: We removed the two bolts holding the LCA to the ball joint area(sorry, not sure of the term) like shown in the video earlier in this thread. We did not loosen the cam bolts for the LCA.

Third: I took a 2x4 and slid it between the portion of the LCA nearer to the cab and then pushed down with my foot to force the LCA down and out of the way while he removed the factory coil over then slid the new one in. When we did the first side I had a pry bar and a shorter 2x4 then on the driver side we couldn't quite get enough distance down with that combo and we realized a longer 2x and no pry bar was the ticket and this worked perfect and was easy. Lots of leverage. Just watch the axle boot so you don't rip it or pinch it with the 2x4.

Overall was an easy process, yes bigger jack, bigger jack stands and air tools help but still pretty straight forward. Glad I didn't take it to a shop and pay 300 or 400 to get it and the AAL installed.

Here is a pic I took while pushing the LCA down.

Sorry, its the only pic I took while we were doing it but its the only thing that is slightly different than has already been shown in the thread.



I like this method. I'll be installing my new 885's very soon. I ordered the OME kit and paid to have them pre assemble the CO's . Am I understanding this right: since my CO's are already assembled that I don't need to worry about the spring pressure since I won't be taking my old ones apart. As long as I leave the top bolt alone on the hat (the bolt everyone says not to turn) then I don't need to worry about my spring flying out and hurting me lol ? Thus, I should have no reason to place a jack under my LCA and relieve the pressure.. In other words, the danger of the spring tension is not an issue if I just take out my stock pre assembled CO's still intact and swap for a new pair of intact CO's ?
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:07 PM   #482
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I have read ALL 25 pages of this and I just want to ask a few questions. I got the rear done just fine, but the front is where I had issues. I got the sway bar moved just fine, but the UCA is giving me one hell of a time. I tried hammering directly on the threaded pin and no budge. I read on page 9 i think, you need to hit the side of it with a hammer, right on the flat part. (orange arrow) Is that like a sweet spot that releases it? Kinda like tapping the 57 logo on an old kethup bottle? lol

I also tried shoving a pry bar between UCA and spindle. (red arrow), but that didnt work either.

If I cant get it, can I just disconenct the tie rod bar with a tie rod puller and that will give me enough room?

Or, my dad that about removing the 2 bolts that hold in the LCA to the frame and having that swing open. I see that being an issue getting it back together.
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Old 06-14-2014, 11:44 AM   #483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottalot View Post
I like this method. I'll be installing my new 885's very soon. I ordered the OME kit and paid to have them pre assemble the CO's . Am I understanding this right: since my CO's are already assembled that I don't need to worry about the spring pressure since I won't be taking my old ones apart. As long as I leave the top bolt alone on the hat (the bolt everyone says not to turn) then I don't need to worry about my spring flying out and hurting me lol ? Thus, I should have no reason to place a jack under my LCA and relieve the pressure.. In other words, the danger of the spring tension is not an issue if I just take out my stock pre assembled CO's still intact and swap for a new pair of intact CO's ?
Sorry, I just saw your reply to this thread. Not sure if you did your install yet but you are correct. You do not need to worry about spring pressure since you will be removing it while it is still assembled. Remove the 3 nuts around the top and remove the bottom shock bolt and it stays all assembled, no fear of the spring launching at you. lol
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:56 AM   #484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronK13 View Post
I have read ALL 25 pages of this and I just want to ask a few questions. I got the rear done just fine, but the front is where I had issues. I got the sway bar moved just fine, but the UCA is giving me one hell of a time. I tried hammering directly on the threaded pin and no budge. I read on page 9 i think, you need to hit the side of it with a hammer, right on the flat part. (orange arrow) Is that like a sweet spot that releases it? Kinda like tapping the 57 logo on an old kethup bottle? lol

I also tried shoving a pry bar between UCA and spindle. (red arrow), but that didnt work either.

If I cant get it, can I just disconenct the tie rod bar with a tie rod puller and that will give me enough room?

Or, my dad that about removing the 2 bolts that hold in the LCA to the frame and having that swing open. I see that being an issue getting it back together.
Bump for some help here. Would also like to know
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottalot View Post
I like this method. I'll be installing my new 885's very soon. I ordered the OME kit and paid to have them pre assemble the CO's . Am I understanding this right: since my CO's are already assembled that I don't need to worry about the spring pressure since I won't be taking my old ones apart. As long as I leave the top bolt alone on the hat (the bolt everyone says not to turn) then I don't need to worry about my spring flying out and hurting me lol ? Thus, I should have no reason to place a jack under my LCA and relieve the pressure.. In other words, the danger of the spring tension is not an issue if I just take out my stock pre assembled CO's still intact and swap for a new pair of intact CO's ?
Correct. the most dangerous part of this method is to ensure your truck is stable on the jack stands, as you have to get the truck up high to get enough clearance to drop the coilover out the bottom. Do not need to remove/loosen sway bar or disconnect steering.
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:50 PM   #486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronK13 View Post
I have read ALL 25 pages of this and I just want to ask a few questions. I got the rear done just fine, but the front is where I had issues. I got the sway bar moved just fine, but the UCA is giving me one hell of a time. I tried hammering directly on the threaded pin and no budge. I read on page 9 i think, you need to hit the side of it with a hammer, right on the flat part. (orange arrow) Is that like a sweet spot that releases it? Kinda like tapping the 57 logo on an old kethup bottle? lol

I also tried shoving a pry bar between UCA and spindle. (red arrow), but that didnt work either.

If I cant get it, can I just disconenct the tie rod bar with a tie rod puller and that will give me enough room?

Or, my dad that about removing the 2 bolts that hold in the LCA to the frame and having that swing open. I see that being an issue getting it back together.
I just did my lift today and this part was absolutely the biggest pain ever. I hammered in the spot you show, pried where you did and I finally took a piece of hard wood and put it directly onto the threaded part and hammered it. One side popped easy the other, not so much
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:01 PM   #487
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I bought the new bushing kit when I bought my coils/struts, I've seen the diagram of the order that they go on a 2nd gen. but with the 1st gen . you're supposed to use both rubber bushings. Which bushing goes where? They're two different ones but cant find out if smaller one goes above top plate or the larger one goes above top plate.
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Old 08-30-2014, 01:15 PM   #488
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Not sure, give me to around 5 and I have a very important update that will be very helpful.
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:07 PM   #489
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This tool makes separating the UCA ball joint a million times easier, just make sure its on there good.

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...rm=OTC+tie+rod

OTC Pittman/tie rod end puller, its awesome, buy it
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:40 PM   #490
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Actually bought this one, but both should work.
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...rchTerm=pitman

Autocraft brand
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Old 08-30-2014, 09:59 PM   #491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REEFDUP View Post
I bought the new bushing kit when I bought my coils/struts, I've seen the diagram of the order that they go on a 2nd gen. but with the 1st gen . you're supposed to use both rubber bushings. Which bushing goes where? They're two different ones but cant find out if smaller one goes above top plate or the larger one goes above top plate.
Anyone?
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:01 PM   #492
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Hmm, I'll try looking
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:09 PM   #493
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Go to this link for parts diagram, I just downloaded and am looking through it now
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...t-numbers.html
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:11 PM   #494
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Well, that didn't help, but good for other use for you, I'll keep digging
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:15 PM   #495
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Couldn't find your answer, sorry. Goin to bed now.http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...ful-links.html

Try postin in 1st gen section
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:49 PM   #496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Removing the front shocks/springs on the second gen Tacoma is a pretty easy task. You will need a small assortment of basic hand tools.
Hammer
Metric sockets (1/4" & 3/8"): 17mm, 19mm, 14mm
3/8" ratchet wrench
1/4" ratchet wrench
14mm ratcheting open/box wrench
19mm open wrench
Needle nose pliers.

Torque for the 3 top nuts is: 47 ft-lbs
Lower shock bolt/nut: 61 ft-lbs
Sway bar nut: 52 ft-lbs

First, jack up the front of the truck and remove both front tires:



Then, remove the 17mm swaybar end link:



Then, remove the 19mm castle nut holding the upper ball joint to the spindle. You will need to use the needle nose pliers to remove the retaining wire. Once this is removed, wire or zip tie the spindle so as to not let it pull or put tension on the brake lines:



Then, you want to remove the 3 14mm nuts on the top plate. DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTER NUT.



Then, remove the 19mm lower shock mount bolt, and nut. You may need to tap this bolt out, once the nut is removed:



Then, Remove the shock/spring assembly:



Reinstall the lift or coilover of your choice in the reverse order.


I accidentaly deleted the pics, so until I can get new ones use these links:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ilea...a/03900510.pdf

http://ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ilea...6ta/039000.pdf
Unbelievable. This guy makes it seem so easy. Chris 2016.
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:03 PM   #497
          
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MateoTorgy View Post
Unbelievable. This guy makes it seem so easy. Chris 2016.
Lol math...
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