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Old 05-11-2009, 08:42 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrgoody86 View Post
Hey guys I took my 09 taco to big o tires today to get the front coilover 5100's in today from toytec its the ultimate lift kit. They just got off the phone saying that the sway bar has to come out because it is in contact with the coilovers when they installed them, That totally doens not make any sense.... What are they doing to my truck... Im at work right now and wont be able to go get it till tomorrow. Is there any ideas on what they might have done or anything. I just told them to leave the sway bar off and I would deal with it. Feel bad for having them do it in the first place. I did the rear my self and by myself yea I mean Alone. So I didnt want to think about doing the front in the same day. Just seeing if this makes sense to anybody else. Thanks guys.
I think its called sway bar relocation bracket or something like that. I have one on my truck and its really ez to install. check it out on toytechlifts.com
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:59 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillbillynwv View Post
I printed out this thread and used it as a guideline when a friend and I began changing out my shocks with my new 5100's. After taking off the 19mm castle nut that held the upper ball joint to the spindle we could not get the two to seperate. We put a wedge between the two but no matter what we tried it did not work. We were able to get the shock out by taking the bottom out, then tilting it toward the cab and we got it out. After we replaced the coil from the stock shock to the 5100's we had a heck of time getting them back in. We first inserted the the top mount in, then I stood on the rotor while my friend got the bottom mount inserted where it needed to go. We did this on Friday night, Saturday I got my new tires installed, then on Sunday I got a alignment. My whole weekend was involved in this and somehow I managed to go to a birthday party and also take my daughter shopping so she could get my wife something for mother's day. What did I need to do too seperate the UCA from the spindle after the nut removal???
I went through this same dilemma. I finally whacked mine hard enough and she popped loose. I guess I was trying to be gentle, I only had about 500 miles on the truck at the time...now I know to bring out the real hammer!
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:18 AM   #83
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Yeah, don't use a ball joint seperator on it. Fucked up the rubber boot & crunched the ball joint. On a happeir note, it still drove to the shop where I let them do it instead after buying 2 new upper ball joints so both would be fresh. The bonud part is these have a grease fitting on them where the can have some fresh grease on occasion. Others didn't even have a spot for a grease fitting. There does seem to something missing from the how-to between remove the castle nut & now put it back together doesn't it. Was leary of that to begin with but gave it a shot. Didn't have anybody to stand on the lca but did have it strapped down to jack stand when trying to knock it out with hammer. Didn't budge, got 50k mileage tho. Didn't wanna get rough enough to screw the threads up so I just broke out the seperator & fucked the whole thing up, lol. At least it turned out OK...with some more cash thrown at it.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:31 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T@co_Pr3runn3r View Post
Yeah, don't use a ball joint seperator on it. Fucked up the rubber boot & crunched the ball joint. On a happeir note, it still drove to the shop where I let them do it instead after buying 2 new upper ball joints so both would be fresh. The bonud part is these have a grease fitting on them where the can have some fresh grease on occasion. Others didn't even have a spot for a grease fitting. There does seem to something missing from the how-to between remove the castle nut & now put it back together doesn't it. Was leary of that to begin with but gave it a shot. Didn't have anybody to stand on the lca but did have it strapped down to jack stand when trying to knock it out with hammer. Didn't budge, got 50k mileage tho. Didn't wanna get rough enough to screw the threads up so I just broke out the seperator & fucked the whole thing up, lol. At least it turned out OK...with some more cash thrown at it.
Yea, I know where your coming from. I didn't want to cost myself more cash in the long run from trying to save money doing it myself. My friend helping me is a mechanical engineer and he couldn't figure out why the damn thing wouldn't come apart. With his brute force and my 200 pound ass standing on the rotor we got the job done. I am just glad we didn't break anything in the process.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:38 AM   #85
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I was glad just to be able to drive it to the shop & that I ended up with some that have the grease fittings. Faunky happenstance can come out OK a rare occassions, lol.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:49 AM   #86
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Another thing that I noticed from doing this job this weekend is that the stock UCA's are junk. They are formed flimsy metal. I was washing my wife's 1998 4Runner yesterday and were checking out her UCA's. They are made of heavy thick steel, built like they were for a tank. I was disappointed how junky mine were compared to hers. I guess this is why a lot of people have been changing them out to the Total Chaos UCA. Wish I could afford them!
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:49 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Hitting the bottom of the ball joint (the threadded part) with a hammer pops it right out. Sometimes you need a good couple of wacks.

So I plan on this proejct soon... I just want to clarify, what part is everyone talking about where to hammer at? I don't want to get stuck at a certain point and hit the wrong place and spend a lot of time doing it. Also where are good locations to jack up the front of the truck and where to put the jackstands? It looks like from your pictures your jackstands are at full length + on top of wood. that really necessary to get it that high?
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Old 05-13-2009, 05:02 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurseboy View Post
So I plan on this proejct soon... I just want to clarify, what part is everyone talking about where to hammer at? I don't want to get stuck at a certain point and hit the wrong place and spend a lot of time doing it. Also where are good locations to jack up the front of the truck and where to put the jackstands? It looks like from your pictures your jackstands are at full length + on top of wood. that really necessary to get it that high?
Here is a link that shows propper lifting and support position:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ilea...06ta/00100.pdf

The jack stands were on the second to last notch. I prefer to have it kinda high, so as to have more working room. If positioned propperly, it will be plenty stable. The part to hit with the hammer, it the Upper ball joint bolt. When you remove the castle nut, hit it hith a hammer to separate the Upper Control Arm from the spindle.
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Old 05-14-2009, 12:39 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Here is a link that shows propper lifting and support position:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/05+/data/ilea...06ta/00100.pdf

The jack stands were on the second to last notch. I prefer to have it kinda high, so as to have more working room. If positioned propperly, it will be plenty stable. The part to hit with the hammer, it the Upper ball joint bolt. When you remove the castle nut, hit it hith a hammer to separate the Upper Control Arm from the spindle.
thanks for the info/link chris. I also forgot to ask about a new jack. I already have a jack but I used it for my honda. I dont think it will be big enough and will raise the truck high enough. What kind of Jack do you recommend I buy for regular use for the truck?
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:04 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurseboy View Post
thanks for the info/link chris. I also forgot to ask about a new jack. I already have a jack but I used it for my honda. I dont think it will be big enough and will raise the truck high enough. What kind of Jack do you recommend I buy for regular use for the truck?
Get a good floor jack. I have a Craftsman 3 ton with a 29" lift.....Try to find anything 2 ton or higher, and 25" lift or more.
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:56 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Get a good floor jack. I have a Craftsman 3 ton with a 29" lift.....Try to find anything 2 ton or higher, and 25" lift or more.
So far I've only been able to find "Torin Service 3.5-Ton Jack, Dual pump raises vehicles 5 times faster than standard jacks. Lifts to an incredible 22in."

highest floor jack i can find at homedepot, but that thing weighs 101 lbs!!!!

would an alluminum 2.5 ton jack be okay? But the max height for this one is 18 inches? Will i be able to get around with that for daily use when i lift it 3 inches?


btw. im only looking at jacks for less then $200. I dont want/cant afford to much on it
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:12 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurseboy View Post
So far I've only been able to find "Torin Service 3.5-Ton Jack, Dual pump raises vehicles 5 times faster than standard jacks. Lifts to an incredible 22in."

highest floor jack i can find at homedepot, but that thing weighs 101 lbs!!!!

would an alluminum 2.5 ton jack be okay? But the max height for this one is 18 inches? Will i be able to get around with that for daily use when i lift it 3 inches?


btw. im only looking at jacks for less then $200. I dont want/cant afford to much on it
All the aluminum ones I have used have blown out seals.....It could be me, however, my 3 ton Craftsman has held up fine for years. You should be able to find a really good jack for under $100.00
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Old 05-16-2009, 01:57 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
All the aluminum ones I have used have blown out seals.....It could be me, however, my 3 ton Craftsman has held up fine for years. You should be able to find a really good jack for under $100.00
yea i bought a 3 ton craftsman, but its only able to go up to 19 inches. I realized it was to short, spent 8 hours on attempting to add-a-leaf, stripping a bolt, and going back home stock height...
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Old 05-16-2009, 12:50 PM   #94
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i forgot to ask, will the 19inch jack be high enough to lift the front end up to put a 3 inch lift coilver on? (its the toytec coilver, one that comes 2.5-3 inch already lifted...
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:31 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurseboy View Post
i forgot to ask, will the 19inch jack be high enough to lift the front end up to put a 3 inch lift coilver on? (its the toytec coilver, one that comes 2.5-3 inch already lifted...
It should be close...You can use a block of wood to get extra height, but be sure to use jack stands under the truck after its raised to the required height.
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Old 05-16-2009, 02:51 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
It should be close...You can use a block of wood to get extra height, but be sure to use jack stands under the truck after its raised to the required height.
so i jack up the front of the car underneath the front diff? then place jack stands on the frame and lower the front diff to get enough clearance to put the new coilover right?
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:11 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nurseboy View Post
so i jack up the front of the car underneath the front diff? then place jack stands on the frame and lower the front diff to get enough clearance to put the new coilover right?
the jackstands are so your truck doesn't fall on top of you when you tear off all of your knuckle flesh yanking on a bolt
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Old 05-16-2009, 10:44 PM   #98
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Nice write up!
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:20 PM   #99
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Is the spacer lift no good? I was thinking of getting one but I don't want to run into problems with it.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:08 PM   #100
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Is the spacer lift no good? I was thinking of getting one but I don't want to run into problems with it.
Everyone says it gives a terrible ride.

Thanks for the write up, doing my 5100s and AAL on saturday
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