Lifts/shocks/Coilovers

alright guys...I've gotten a bug up my ass about lifting my truck...eventually i will have 285's all terrains on my truck and I'm wondering best route for a lift...i have been looking at bill steins but am not sure about the ride or if they are just a cheaper way to go for a reason...i am looking to lift my truck about 3" or so, let me know your thoughts about bill steins or a different route...i have also looked at camburgs as well...like i said let me know your thoughts on all avenues

 

What's your budget and inteded use?

 

OME kit is a solid 3" lift at a reasonable price.

 

There's tons of info on the forums, you gotta search around a bit and you'll find more than you ever wanted to know.

Here's what my cart looks like @ Wheelers right now, I arrived at this setup after lots of googling around inside of these forums... there are other options besides this one, but perhaps this will give you an idea of what to expect for a functional setup:

• COMPLETE OME SUSPENSION SYSTEM WITH NITROCHARGER SPORT SHOCKS/887 Springs $1,140.00
• BUSHING SET FOR OLD MAN EMU CS047R LEAF SPRINGS $15.69
• EXTENDED STRUT STUDS $13.00
• OLD MAN EMU FK29 DRIVELINE CARRIER BEARING DROP KIT $12.35
• WHEELER’S IN HOUSE STRUT ASSEMBLY FOR 05+ TACOMA $158.00
• SpiderTrax Wheel Spacers: Black Wheel Spacer Pair x2 $195.90
• CAMBURG UPPER CONTROL ARMS – UNI-BALL SET $664.00

Total cost, pre-shipping: $2198.94

Note that the wheel spacers ($200) are not to do with the lift itself, rather they are necessary because of my wheel/tire choice.

I opted to get new Upper Control Arms because they are stronger/better than the OEM control arms in every way, especially in that they allow for easier alignment by a shop. They are also not 100% needed, but I'd rather spend the money now rather than experience pain later because I tried to cut a corner.

I chose the 887 springs because they have the same rate as 885 springs but they're longer, this will let me run trail armor without needing 886 springs or a spacer on 885 springs. This is per yotadan's very good advice.

Given that those dastardly folks over at All-Pro had a free shipping event for Memorial day and I jumped directly on that, I will have a front and rear apex bumper ready to install at the same time as the lift.

 

ya I've looked on the forums and tried to ask some guys about their set ups but a lot of the posts are a few years old...i don't REALLY have a set budget, with that being said I'm wondering if its worth it to buy a more expensive set up or if i could get away with a little cheaper route...my use is going to be everyday driver with some off roading...nothing crazy more of forrest service roads to get places

 

how come you don't just go with a whole cam burg set up for 2g's? it comes with coil overs and the upper a arms?

 

With what your uses are you won't need coilovers like kings or icons. OME kit is good. Also check out toytec lifts for some lift kits. For you getting upgraded coils like eibachs and upgraded shocks like 5100s is good enough for your uses and will get you that 3" lift or close to it. For the rear get a AAL or a new leaf pack like dakars, allpro or deavers. Also looking into UCAs is a good idea.

 

billstein 5100 are an ok shock. the cheap lift option is where they get all their popularity. for what you are going to do OME sounds best at a reasonable price. If your not planning on added weight, armor/bumper ect. 884 springs are about 2.5 inches of lift so you wont need upper control arms. if you want the full 3 inches go for 885 springs but you'll need upper control arms. and if you plan on adding weight you'll want 886 or 887 springs. 886 are stiffer 887 are longer and softer so they both give about the same height.

now that I typed that, are you 4wd or 2wd? big difference in lift options because of front drive shafts.

 

x2^

BUT, go with a Progressive leaf pack that adds to your existing leaf pack or new leaf pack if you can swing it..I ran an AAL for 3,xxx miles and it started to sag. Should've ran Dakars from the start. Not saying the EXACT same thing will happen to you OP, but eventually, you will want to get rid of that AAL. Do it right from the beginning.

 

It's more of a preference I've developed after seeing so many successful OME kits here on TacomaWorld, and YotaDan(Wheelers) has been super helpful in answering my questions about the OME Kit via PM.

As far as the price difference: The OME Kit is really only $1100. I wanted my coilovers pre-assembled because I don't own a spring compressor and I don't trust the Geniuses at PepBoys to do it as well as the guys at the Wheelers shop. I also threw in the wheel spacers because I want to use some TRD Sport rims that I got for free with my 33's. That's an additional $360 right there.

 

Just a thought, if u go with 255/85/16 instead u will actually gain a half in or so tire height over the 285 so 1/4" ride height and wheel spacers wont be needed since theyre 1 1/2" narrower. And u can achive about the same height with greater ground clearance with 2.5" lift and prolly not need new ucas

 

Interesting idea, so I would basically be ditching UCA's and buying a set of 16" rims, instead?

Edit: Trying not to thread jack, and this stuff is pertinent to OP's question anyway.

 

If u have 17" rims u can get 255/80/17 same heiggt.

 

If you're only using it for occasional light off road, I wouldn't go nuts. I got my 3" lift in the rear from a 1" block spacer and a 2" AAL. (I would probably have done 1" at the shackle if I knew better) I used 10" Bilstein 5100's back there. In the front I did an assembled coilover kit that used Bilsteins and eibach springs. I got everything from toytec. All said and done the lift cost <$1100. (mind you this was on a 2004 2.7L SR5) My only complaint is that after turning up the front coilovers to 3" of lift there was very little downtravel left. But it still performed very well. I put this set up through a year of very hard and frequent off road use (with 285/75 R16's) and the only problem I have is that the 5100's in the rear are dead and leaking. (Not big $ to replace) Leaf packs are nice but be aware that some are considerably softer than stock and may not be ideal if you plan on using the bed for heavy payloads. Even with my AAL's and stock suspension the rear still flexes very well. This should be plenty for your described needs... but if you change your mind and want to do harder/more frequent off roading you might start dreaming about 35's, SAS, long travel, it never ends...


*oh yeah and my next set of tires are definitely gonna be 255/85 R16. Prolly the BFGood KM2's. The 285/75's grabber at2's are little more tire than I need, and I find that people who have the skinny talls move better through stuff that isn't up to the frame.

 

ok guys sorry busy week! lots of reading to do! thank you all for your great posts!! this has provided me a lot of info!! I still want a pretty decent right as i still use it for everyday driver and it is a 4wd...with hearing more about the bill steins i think i am going to stay away from them...they sound like an OK lift, but i also want something that looks nice and very functional! i still want plenty of down travel so I'm thinking that i will go with a cam burg kit possibly or at least cam burg uca with a different coil over! thanks again for all your help...i am curious about tires now...so you're suggesting running 255's? cause mine are 245's right now just stock

 

Yeah the 255/85(80 for 17" rim) are like 10" wide and 33.3" tall. Ive been told ppl run them on stock suspension and only rub with flex, so an 1" or more should remedy what ever small amount of rub would occur. Im gonna go with maxis bighorns cuz i can get them in a d rated tire. If ur looking for an at i would suggest cooper st maxx. Theyre only offered in a e rated tire. I think they weight 56 lbs each where the bighorns in d weigh 52. There are several threads on here about that size. But u will be a half inch wider than u are now and 4" taller give or take.

 

255's aren't much wider than 245's, but the 255-85-16 are 32" tires, so you'll get about the same height tire as a 285 (more sidewall than stock). Won't perform quite as well as 285's in mud, but they may actually outperform on other surfaces, plus you won't have as bad MPG's since there's less friction on the road and its a lighter tire (than 285's or 265's).

 

The 255/85 r16 aren't much lighter than 285's. The increased patch over say, a 265/70 r16, actually comes from the patch being longer even though the tire width is less. The contact area gets really large when you air these tires down.

 

They do better than 285s in mud as long as you arent going frame deep. Also will get better mileage than 285s.

 

If considering camburg, you might want to look at sway-A-way. The look identical to camburg for about 300 less. I just saw someone talking about them and though I would pass it on.