Light Racing UCA

Anzy · Feb 13, 2015

Yeah I definitely want to stick with a ball joint. It's a daily driver and I don't want to deal with the noise of a uni-ball. Plus I'm from PA and the winters are a bitch here.
I manage an Auto Parts Store/Speed and Offroad Shop and am able to get Fabtech and Ready Lift UCA, but I don't want either one of those.

Haslefre · Feb 13, 2015

Newlife said: ↑

Hasle do you have knowledge of how the LR work I am looking at this diagram and I don't know if I am tired or what but I need to adjust my ball joints to get as much caster as possible and I am not getting which way to turn.
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Not yet. I'm waiting on a whole shipment myself. let me jump back on the comp and I'll see what I can round up

Anzy · Feb 13, 2015

Unchained 5150 said: ↑

Was just going to ask the same thing, I got a price quote of 539.00 with ball joint dust covers for the Camburg's. Just don't know how well they will hold up in the New England states
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I'd rather find a deal on the arms and caps without the Moog Ball Joints, seeing as I can get the Moog ball joints myself really cheap through work.

Haslefre · Feb 13, 2015

http://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25480-INS_WEB.pdf
SPC install information... It depends on which side you want more caster I guess?

Newlife · Feb 13, 2015

Both sides lol. I can't tell which way they are saying to turn it. Should the rounded section point towards the front or rear of the truck?

TRSJimmy · Feb 13, 2015

Newlife said: ↑

Both sides lol. I can't tell which way they are saying to turn it. Should the rounded section point towards the front or rear of the truck?
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If you want 2.0* caster (position D), you want the flat section (with spc logo) facing the tire

Newlife · Feb 13, 2015

gym_jamz said: ↑

If you want 2.0* caster (position D), you want the flat section (with spc logo) facing the tire
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That's Where they are now and I the alignment shop got 2.3 But I am rubbing at turn in reverse. So I need more cast to get the tire more forward as best I can then I will cut and bash more.

Haslefre · Feb 13, 2015

Rounded piece is the lower part. It looks like in the picture just above and to the left that it should be facing IN. To increase caster on DRIVER you want to turn to the rear of the truck. In fact, you want to turn it to the rear of the truck on both sides.

Newlife · Feb 13, 2015

so flat side that says spec towards back of the truck...

TRSJimmy · Feb 13, 2015

Newlife said: ↑

That's Where they are now and I the alignment shop got 2.3 But I am rubbing at turn in reverse. So I need more cast to get the tire more forward as best I can then I will cut and bash more.
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This thread might help

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/su...earance-driving-report-light-racing-ucas.html

But, there was a problem. The instant I tried to back out of my parking place with a bit of turn, the wheels rubbed the back of the wheelwell. brubrubrubrubrubrub.

I talked to the shop and rang up PRS 2 TiFJ. He gave the following observations and instructions.

* If you increase caster AT THE TOP of the spindle, you decrease clearance, because that moves the spindle hub back.
* If you increase caster AT THE BOTTOM of the spindle, you increase clearance, because that moves the spindle hub forward.
* On the stock truck, caster and camber must be played off against each other, because the combination of eccentric cams on the lower-control-arm affects both caster and camber.
* But the adjustability on the Light-Racings means you can set Camber at the top of the spindle, in addition to setting caster there.
* Toe is adjusted by the tie-rod ends, and is a completely separate adjustment.

So, to maximize clearance:

1. First, Maximize caster using the eccentrics on the lower control arm. Do not worry about camber at this time.
2. Reset the caster cams on the UCAs to the minimum value to bring Caster to an acceptable value. I decided to trade off a little less caster for a little more clearance here, and moved the UCA cams to the "+1" position (One degree LESS than neutral, and two degrees less than I started)
3. Set the camber using the UCA adjustment slide.
4. Finish off toe normally.

So I met with the alignment technician this morning, and stood in the shop while he worked. Pretty much my only contribution to the effort was showing how to turn the caster-adjustment cams on the UCAs. To get maximum "2.5" caster on my truck, the UCAs would have to be set at the neutral "+2" position. I deliberately traded off to get a little more CLEARANCE at the expense of a little less caster and ended up with the following final alignment numbers:

Code:
Left Right Factory Range
Camber: 0.5 0.5 0.2-1.3
Caster: 1.7 2.0 1.0-2.5
Toe: 0.05 0.06 0.0-0.11
After the alignment, there was 2.5" of space between the tire and the rear of the fender well. A little less than I originally had before I installed the UCAs, but I'm no longer rubbing in the parking lot.
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Haslefre · Feb 13, 2015

No. flat side should be at your front bumper. For max caster anyway.

Newlife · Feb 13, 2015

Gotcha, Thanks guys.

Anzy · Feb 18, 2015

So, has anyone found these cheaper than $370 anywhere?

Unchained 5150 · Feb 19, 2015

EBay but I wouldn't trust it.

pa blaster · Feb 19, 2015

Unchained 5150 · Feb 19, 2015

I went with the new Camburg ball joint UCA's from Wheelers. P.M. YotaDan for a nice shipped price with dust caps.

Anzy · Feb 20, 2015

Unchained 5150 said: ↑

I went with the new Camburg ball joint UCA's from Wheelers. P.M. YotaDan for a nice shipped price with dust caps.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I just messaged him to see what he can do.

OZ-T · Feb 20, 2015

Newlife said: ↑

That's Where they are now and I the alignment shop got 2.3 But I am rubbing at turn in reverse. So I need more cast to get the tire more forward as best I can then I will cut and bash more.
Click to expand...

You can also sacrifice camber to gain more caster at the LCA alignment cams and then dial in your camber with the LR UCA slide adjustment at the top nut

Newlife · Feb 20, 2015

OZ-T said: ↑

You can also sacrifice camber to gain more caster at the LCA alignment cams and then dial in your camber with the LR UCA slide adjustment at the top nut
Click to expand...

I got it fixed Oz I just had to take it to to a more knowledgeable shop. I should have have updated. I am at a 3.0 caster 0.0 camber and 0.0 toe. No rub at all even when flexing hard

Haslefre · Feb 20, 2015

Glad you got it right. Mine come in next week.. We will see how much I'll need to change mine.

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