Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

Jason, I'm expecting full pictars and measurements of the finished product. You went the same, but totally different direction than I went (if that even makes sense) I'm interested to see what kind of travel and clearance you have when its all said and done.

 

How much rubbing do you have..I'm wanting to go to 20x12 as well but feel like.ill have to drop to 33s..I love my 35s though!!!

 

No rubbing. I did the cab mount and trim the fender a little bit.

 

Looks badass!!!

 

No rubbing. I did the cab mount and trim the fender a little bit.

 

Hmmm...I have 7.5" of lift with 17x9..4.5 backspace -12mm offset. .1.25" wheel spacers. ..so basically a 17x10.25 wheel..35x12.50s and i rub still..trimmed alot of plastic and did cab mount chop

 

Nice rig

 

Truck looks bad as shit!!!!

 

YotaMatt - I think when you use spacers to widen your track width it makes things worse actually. Your 1.25 spacers turn your hypothetical 10.25 width wheels into a 3.25 BS which gives you more clearance from the inside edge of the tire to the spindle to clear yourDB flipped tie rod ends and more clearance to the spindle for airing down BUT it moves the wheel further out which moves the outside edge of the tire out toward hitting everything at the back of the wheel well. So the wider track width because of your spacers makes the outside back edge of your tire swing in a wider arc when you turn the wheel = worse for rubbing cab mount, pinch weld and every other stupid thing toyota put back there

 

I can't wait to post finished pics...But I am still waiting on my new King's, still have another 3 weeks to go. Long story about the delay...another manufacturer told us they were building exactly what I needed...waited two months and even after I gave them exact measurements they delivered me their off the shelf 6" lift kit shock just with remote resi's added so I had to refuse them because I would have had to preload them horribly to get another 2" of lift out of them. Had to put up a bit of fight to say the least to get a full refund, I had pre paid 100% since it was supposed to be a custom order So after 8 weeks of waiting I was back to square one which is when I hooked up with the guys at Dirt King.

Up front - I already have the Dirt King UCA's and LCA's installed and my old Custom CO's I told you about. I can't say enough good things about the Guys at Dirt King and their products the craftsmanship is siiiick. The kings were custom ordered about 6 weeks ago with all black anno hardware and black hoses and black labels so silver bodies with all black bits and pieces - measurements are 29 1/4 extended 22 collapsed so that is 7 1/4" stroke which equates to around 13+ of travel at the tire, supposedly the formula is stroke x 1.8 - 1.9. I went with remote adjustable resi's too and asked for street comfort valving that I could stiffen up off road.

Out back - New 6" National progressive 10 pack, with flip kit and stubby bumps on the flip plate. I just played around with flexing it out again today and I am really impressed with that National pack. I can stuff a 35" ...err make that smash a 35" into the fender flare and the droop on the other side will be sweet with the King's The Kings for the rear are 2.5 x 14" stroke with the same remote adjustable resi's and all black bits.

We are moving the rear axle shock mounts up to the center of the axle and both mounts will be to the back of the axle and the top mounts will both be forward of the axle at 90 degrees to the compressed travel path of the axle. So lower mount behind axle and top mount fwd of axle and about 5" up. I am not frenching the rear towers into the frame though, I don't like the idea of cutting into frame like that and at full stuff there is still enough room to clear the shock body.

All in all 3 more weeks until the King order arrives and a couple weekends to fab the rear mounts. Can't wait to post a build thread and shut some people up about DB's ! Ahhh who am I kidding it will just be a shit storm of DB haters

 

Sounds epic!

 

How are you getting around having stock length uppers and lowers and having that amount of travel in the shocks? Wouldn't you need 3" extended lowers and uppers to handle that kind of travel?
With the $ you've got in I'm surprised you didn't just rip out the DB and go full LT.

 

Internet shop like crazy man. I got mine for around $2000

 

john with plasma in hand



me "getting" to help grind, no fun!

 

lucky guy

 

just waiting on Currie to send me my f'in axles!

 

For the $ you have in those axles you should have them by now!
PS can I have your bumpers? You don't need them

 

It is a simple matter of taking advantage of / maximizing the available extended and collapsed length of your CO which is why I keep commenting on a lot of these posts for people to never buy over the counter " made for a 6" lift kit CO's ". Take a look at a PC or Fabtech bottom rod end and bottom coil seat for example it sits way above the tie rod you could take length off of that and turn it into usable stroke length.

Simple things like the bottom rod ends being too long sacrifices stroke length = lost travel. IE: If your lower rod end can be 1" shorter and still clear your front axles etc that is 1" of extra stroke = 2" of wheel travel.

Same goes for the "top hat" of the coil over some companies use an extra adapter for Toyotas instaed of an OE style top hat that is flush to the bottom of the coil bucket...again a 1" difference = another 2" of wheel travel. So, those two items alone can rob you of 2" of stroke length.

By simply ordering a full custom CO in that scenario you can gain 4" of wheel travel... most people don't do it becasue the cost is far greater than the " over the counter " options.

I have been trying to think of good system for us all to share numbers with some sort of common starting points to judge from to compare stance height and other measurements and I was thinking of this :

1. Measure from the bottom of your DB to the ground

2. List your actual tire size, by actual I mean put a tape measure on them IE: most 35's are not actualy 35" most even new are around 34 1/2. If you know what size tire someone has and how far their DB is off the ground = a really good idea of their actual stance etc right ?

3. While your truck is on the ground measure from bottom of coil bucket to the center of the eye of the bolt for your CO rod end on the LCA = the static length of your CO at ride height.

In my case : ( which I believe is 8" over OE in the front and 6" in the rear measuring off my neighbors completely stock TRD Sport )

1 = PC DB is 13 1/2 off the ground ( OE TRD Sport = 9" btw so 8" of suspension lift only gains 4 1/2" of clearance at the DB to settle those arguements BUT that is +4 1/2 " of ground clearance over OE with correct suspension geometry not with LCA's reaching for the ground and track width pulled in to gain that height )

2 = Very worn out 35x12.5's that are now just over 33 1/2" now.

3 = Static CO length at ride height is 25 1/4" ( I believe an off the shelf DB kit sits around 22" or less static length slightly pre loaded ? )

* My alignment is all in the green but we will be trimming the tie rods as Scarlett4x4 did to get the toe perfect, thanks for that tip btw !


And lastly to answer Scarlett4x4's looming big question of why not just go long travel ? Answer - This is my daily driver (120k miles ) I can't afford a second play truck and it still fits in the garage with my ladies matching silver 4Runner and all of our bikes and surfboards etc too. To do LT right and caged etc you are not going to be a happy camper for daily driving IMO... AND I just like the look of a fkn jacked up truck ! So the challenge of maximizing a MT stock track width lifted truck that is still a daily driver is the goal for me.

 

i hear ya! bumpers are already gone

 

I'm not saying I don't smell what you are cooking, but just knowing what I know with my own trucks uniball upper and lowers, you still have to factor in binding. I'm very curious to see the final product. I hope you get the #s you seek.
I may be tearing down my front end and cycling it again. Now that I have everything settled I want to see if I can squeeze a bit more out of it by making sure the spacers are removed from inside the coils and removing some of the bump stop spacer that the TC lowers came with.