Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

I'm pretty sure they are 650 lb springs. You will def need 700 lb with your set up. I will also say that the ICONs preloaded up are stiff as well. I would honestly take off your PCs and cycle your suspension and take measurements before calling Icon. The whole reason I went down to 5" was to get the pre load off of those icons that are meant for DB lifts.

 

If at all humanly possible do not buy any of those "pre fab" CO's. They say they are for a 6" kit but they are NOT going to give you the height or the travel you want they are intended for street trucks. The Icon's are not tall enough and do not give you the full travel your truck is capable of. The Fox's in the BDS kit -same thing, none of them maximize the available travel. Listen to Scarlet4x4 he ran into that issue and had to drop down a bit, I ran into the same too which is why I ended up going the full custom route through King. Take your CO's off and cycle your suspension and measure from the bottom of the upper CO bucket to center of the lower shock bolt eye. All they need for a custom shock build is full droop and full compression. I have been through the exact same scenario recently so feel free to PM me if you want my phone # for any advice !

 

Spent the day at Dirt King yesterday getting my new 14" Kings installed Super stoked with the results ! I forgot to take pictures when we were cycling it with the wheels on so I will post some pictures of it flexed later.

Couple of tips to share :

1. Easy way to flex your leaf pack when you are building hoops and need to determine full droop and full compression is to take apart your leak pack leaving only the main 2 leafs that are wrapped. Measure the thickness of your leaf pack and cut a piece of tubing to insert in the place of your leaf pack ( like making a lift block out of a short chunk of tubing ) then put your u-bolts back on. This allows you to easily flex you springs with just a jack and retain the actual axle stack height.

2. With a 6" leaf pack you can easily fit a 14" shock by building a hoop that goes to the top of the wheel well - no bed cutting required just trim the plastic inner liner. The 14" shock will even allow you to cut off the OE lower mounts on the axle and weld on new shock tabs centered on the axle.


I included a couple of photos of full droop and full compression - and YES with the tire on it will go to full bump with a 35" tire. Fender flare trimming required of course. It is a true 14" of stroke with a King shock not 14" minus internal bumps etc. This gains you over 6" of additional travel vs the PC shocks or anything mounted to your stock locations I do have to change my rear hose fittings, we originally thought we would be mounting the resi's to the frame so DSM is going to change them for me this week.

Edit - I just realized that photo is not full droop there is a block on the jack and a jack stand under the pumpkin too but that photo shows you the leaf pack disassembled with the tubing used as a spacer etc.

Edit #2 - I'm so tired today I forgot to thank the guys at Dirt King, their customer service is incredible and their fab work is so clean. They squeezed me into their schedule yesterday and they knew my truck is my only vehicle so they stayed until 2am to get it all done for me ! On top of that they taught me a ton of stuff while I was hanging out all day with them.

 

So how much travel?

 

Sorry I just edited my post I meant to say " a true 14" of stroke ". With the rear end it is straight stroke = travel which is why I keep preaching maximizing stroke by taking those compressed and extended measurements and ordering accordingly.

Edit - the PC's and pretty much any other shock mounted to your OE locations only provide 8-9" of travel so it is a gain of + 5-6" of travel !

 

Holy shit there are some sick Trucks on here... I have a long way to go

 

Welcome to TW.

 

So I figured I might post my plan in here, just to get some feedback and any advice y'all can give!

Right now I have a 3" Spacer/Block lift with 32" tires, it has been fine but not too great. Every few weekends I tow my Polaris RZR XP900 on a 12' trailer. Power is fine with the 32s everything works well.

But this summer im really wanting to go the 6" lift direction. From the start I knew I would not want to get the 35s because towing 2000lbs would not be fun! So I want to get 33s... but I do also want something wide. So whatever lift I decide, I will also have a custom leaf pack made to help any sag issues when towing.

So the rims im planning on getting are the 18x12 Fuel Hostages, and I'm not sure about tires yet. Either a 33x12.5 or a 33x13.5. Looking at Nittos and Micky thopsons.

So let me know what yall think! Thanks!

 

I have the Fabtech Stage Two 6" lift with 285/70/17. Love the stance with these tires.

 

What's wrong with keeping the wheels you have?
How much wheeling and what type do you do?

I ask for good reasons so I can give you my personal opinions. I should put this with a disclaimer because a few of us DB guys will give you a straight up no BS opinion. We have been there and done that with these lifts. So before I open up a conversation that has been beat to death here in the 6" thread. I advise that you just start scrolling back some pages or look for responses from myself, MWOAP and Aaron I believe.

 

This is a smart thing to do...Once my 35s wear out I'm dropping to 33s and wide 20s...I tow my can am xmr and 8 foot trailer and it kills it..fuel mpg is terrible. .trans shifts alot...also I run nittos because I love them..they look good and ive had good luck with them. .With that being said they are very heavy

 

12's look nice but if you want a nicer ride I would stick with an 18 x 10 especially if you are only going with a 12.50 wide tire.

Nittos are a good tire but check out the toyo at II's too.

 

Thanks so much! Yeah I really like the look of wide 18's and 20's with 33s! Now I have this RZR i have no need to offroad my truck, so its all looks from now on!

 

This ^


Although I see this thread is headed back in the right direction though... 18x12s. Hopefully chrome right

In all seriousness, rotating mass has just as much to do with power loss as taller tires. Nittos look sweet and wear nice. Except they are stiff and heavy. Be mindful of back spacing

 

HOLY SHIT!!!!!!

I thought you sold that beast a long time ago.

Welcome back man.

 

Anyone heard of these tires or running them?

http://www.atturo.com/moto/#./trail_blade_mt

 

Nope....

Toyo ATII or MT... Nuff said

 

Another Toyo wannabe. Cool lol

 

Hey RAPR, good to hear from you again.

Thanks.