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Old 10-19-2009, 06:35 PM   #1
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LR uca install initial setting

Sup guy's,
My LR uca's arrived today and just need some extra input before I start the install. Since the arms come without the ball joint installed and caster is adjustable what should I set it to when i initially install them (0, 1.0, 1.75, 2.0 degree) so it will be safe to drive to the shop that will do my actuall allignment. I have a 3" spacer lift for now (yeah, i know but please no coilover/spacer wars).
From what i've been reading i can just bolt them in and my truck should be drivable right? The shop is only 2.5 miles away and don't need to go over 30mph.
Lastly, anyone have the the torque setting for the ball joint to spindle nut.
I think that's it, thanx
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:37 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amo-cat3 View Post
Sup guy's,
My LR uca's arrived today and just need some extra input before I start the install. Since the arms come without the ball joint installed and caster is adjustable what should I set it to when i initially install them (0, 1.0, 1.75, 2.0 degree) so it will be safe to drive to the shop that will do my actuall allignment. I have a 3" spacer lift for now (yeah, i know but please no coilover/spacer wars).
From what i've been reading i can just bolt them in and my truck should be drivable right? The shop is only 2.5 miles away and don't need to go over 30mph.
Lastly, anyone have the the torque setting for the ball joint to spindle nut.
I think that's it, thanx
ya i just did mine and my friend did his on his 2006 tacoma it should be safe to drive, when i did mine i pm'ed chris4x4 for the torque setting. i think it was 90# for my truck
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:44 PM   #3
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81 lb-ft.
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:49 PM   #4
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there yu go haha
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amo-cat3 View Post
thanx guys,
Timicha - what did you set your caster to when you first put the arms in? how soon did you get an allignment?
i just put them in and didn't change anything i took it to les shwab the next day
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Old 10-20-2009, 12:48 AM   #7
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I did the LR UCAs a couple weeks ago like Timicha mentioned. I set them at 0 caster, and put the ball joint all the way out on them for the camber. Alignment visually looks OK like this, and I've actually not had a chance to do the alignment yet. After about 800 miles of driving my tires seem ok still, and it drives ok, but im going to try and get it done ASAP! I fully intended on getting it done within a couple days at most from when I did the install, but my schedule got too busy, then I had to make a 500 mile trip the following weekend and so I just hoped my tires wouldn't wear too excessively. I only paid $400 for the tires though(and I want to upgrade to some bigger ones!) so I didnt really care too much if it wore em down a tad.
heres a pic if it helps:
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Old 10-20-2009, 06:51 AM   #9
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SO.. what is perfect spec when you have one of these LR UCAs? Zero toe, Zero Camber, Caster?
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:25 AM   #10
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Toe: 0*
Camber: 0*
Caster: 2.9*
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Old 10-20-2009, 08:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Toe: 0*
Camber: 0*
Caster: 2.9*
ok, without the LR UCA and 3"+ of lift, I am:

Camber Left .5 Camber Right .6 Spec range -0.3 to 1.2
Caster Left .9 Caster Right 1.1 Spec range 1.4 to 2.9
Toe 0 Toe .02 Spec range -0.04 to .07

Caster adjustment is Maxed out on the Left side.

Technically within spec, but there is a funny feeling in the steering wheel. Not sure how to describe it, at freeway speeds when I hit bumps or cracks in the road the wheel feels "jiggly".. (you only feel it in the steering wheel). I am told with the LR UCA, this will be fixed.

Will post my "After" measurements when I get them delivered and installed.


Thanks Chris.
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Old 10-20-2009, 11:28 AM   #13
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Just a head's up. I don't know if they fixed it so it can't go in wrong but on the LR UCAs make sure you get the gold bar under the arm in the right way like RT's picture (letters/flat side on the outside). On my set, it was possible to put it in backwards. If it's backwards, it won't align correctly.

Here's a picture of it put in wrong (rounded side out):
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Old 10-20-2009, 03:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Monkey View Post


Just a head's up. I don't know if they fixed it so it can't go in wrong but on the LR UCAs make sure you get the gold bar under the arm in the right way like RT's picture (letters/flat side on the outside). On my set, it was possible to put it in backwards. If it's backwards, it won't align correctly.

Here's a picture of it put in wrong (rounded side out):
Thanks for the heads up EVIL Monkey!
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Old 10-20-2009, 03:13 PM   #15
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i set my ball joint to 0*, aligned perfectly
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:29 PM   #16
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Alright, time to resurrect this thread! I'm going to install my LR UCAs this weekend and it appears that most people set em at 0 and all the way out however I caught a link on another thread which directs to an FJ forum where dude talked to LR tech and was told to set em all the way in and +2.5.

so what do I have to do to get a good alignment?

...also was the new UCA's suppose to come with a new bolt to connect to the chasis?
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Old 02-04-2010, 09:01 PM   #17
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No new bolt with them so either re-use the one on the truck, or buy new ones and then cut the factory ones to more easily remove them. For me, I actually had to turn the ball joint one notch toward the back for extra clearance on my coil at the suspension's full droop and then get it aligned that way. I think I ended up with a bit extra caster, but thats fine with me as its not a wear angle on tires.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:06 PM   #18
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Do you know what size and type of bolt (just in case)?

...also what tools and size sockets are needed?
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:10 AM   #19
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The bolt is a very long and fine thread. Its probably something that would have to be ordered directly from the dealer.
Its been a while since I did mine, I cant remember all of the tool sizes. I do know you need a 10mm for the brake line bracket, then I think the main UCA bolt was like a 17, or 19, maybe even a 21mm. And the ball joint is probably a 17 or 19mm. Make sure you have a torque wrench to do the final torque on everything too. The nut that tightens the ball joint to the LR UCA was larger than everything else iirc, so make sure you have a socket that large before starting.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdn_bacon View Post
Alright, time to resurrect this thread! I'm going to install my LR UCAs this weekend and it appears that most people set em at 0 and all the way out however I caught a link on another thread which directs to an FJ forum where dude talked to LR tech and was told to set em all the way in and +2.5.

so what do I have to do to get a good alignment?

...also was the new UCA's suppose to come with a new bolt to connect to the chasis?
you would move it forward if you had a bigger tire, and wanted to clear the body mounts without trimming. With the Stock bumper, you will probably have to deal with the front trim though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RelentlessTaco View Post
The bolt is a very long and fine thread. Its probably something that would have to be ordered directly from the dealer.
Its been a while since I did mine, I cant remember all of the tool sizes. I do know you need a 10mm for the brake line bracket, then I think the main UCA bolt was like a 17, or 19, maybe even a 21mm. And the ball joint is probably a 17 or 19mm. Make sure you have a torque wrench to do the final torque on everything too. The nut that tightens the ball joint to the LR UCA was larger than everything else iirc, so make sure you have a socket that large before starting.
Just buy new ones from Toyota, and cut the old ones off to make it easy. Honestly, they really aren't that hard to remove though IMO.
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