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Wheel hop??? 4x4's

View Poll Results: wheel hop
No I don't have wheel hop 23 35.38%
Yes I have wheel hop 23 35.38%
Yes I have it and going to do something about it (traction bars) 5 7.69%
I'm not going to spin the tires 2 3.08%
Wheel hop WTF is that? 11 16.92%
Traction bars didn't help 1 1.54%
Voters: 65. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-12-2009, 06:28 AM   #1
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Wheel hop??? 4x4's

I can't be the only one with it. I'm guessing traction bars should do the trick. trying to figure out how common this wheel hop thing is with these trucks
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:29 AM   #2
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Axle wrap. Very common. Tractions bars will "kill" the hop. Heavier leafs (AAL) will also help.
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:29 AM   #3
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Most trucks with relativly soft, and long (Tacoma) leaf springs will experiance wheel hop off road. An AAL will calm it down, and a Trc bar will eliminate it.
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:30 AM   #4
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:stickstongueout:

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Old 11-12-2009, 06:31 AM   #5
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
chris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
:stickstongueout:

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Old 11-12-2009, 06:32 AM   #6
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*cheezy announcer voice................."And now back to our regularly scheduled thread"
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:41 AM   #7
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So how does axle wrap affect the truck besides when doing burnouts you bounce up and down a bit?
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:43 AM   #8
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It flexes the leafs which will cause the bouncing (hop) of the wheel. You can youtube wheel hop or axle wrap and see it in action. I would post some but youtube is block at work. BASTARDS
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Old 11-12-2009, 06:51 AM   #9
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2 real cheap fixes. A couple hundred puonds of sand in the bed... or just lay off the gas, and save your tires.
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Old 11-12-2009, 07:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumNutz View Post
So how does axle wrap affect the truck besides when doing burnouts you bounce up and down a bit?
It's a 4 banger with 32" MT's. Needless to say I don't do burnouts with the truck. If it was a lowered Xrunner that might be differnet.

even slow wheel spin off road causes the truck to jump up and down horribly bad. incendental tire spin on wet roads does it as well.

I could understand it happening on dry pavemnet trying to do a burnout or something but not minor tire spin in the dirt.

If I'm going to spend money to fix it I want it all gone, so traction bars might be on my Birthday list, which is this month. Probablly just wait till Xmas when i have time to get them installed and when I plan on doing lots of off roading then.
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Old 11-12-2009, 08:02 AM   #11
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I have checked out those bud built ones before. Is it just me or do the simple bolt on bars seem like there is a lot more to them than just bolting them up? These are the directions for the bud built bolt on's.....


1. Lift the truck from the ground to provide sufficient working room under it. Use a lift or jack stands to safely support it and make sure it is safe BEFORE you crawl under it.
2. Assemble the front mount. The poly bushings get pushed into place, then the shackles are attached to it with the 1/2" x 3 3/4" long bolt. Tacomas use short shackles and others have a longer version with 3 holes in each. Pickups can use the longest setting, and 4Runners need the shorter setting.
On Tacomas, the curved part of the bracket faces up toward the truck body. One of the bolts on the side closest to the drive shaft will pass through the carrier bearing mounting bracket. You may need to loosen the carrier bearing bolt. The forward half of the front bracket that goes on the front side of the cross member will sit on the lip of the carrier bearing support.
There are 4 cross bolts. The cross bolts should not be over tightened or you could crush the cross member on Tacomas. It is not a boxed cross member like the earlier trucks. Once you see that it is squeezing the cross member tight that is tight enough. There should be a few threads of the cross bolt showing on the exit side of the nut.
3. Drain the rear differential. It is best that you let it drain over night if possible. Always be sure make sure you can remove the fill port before you drain the diff so you can be sure you can refill it.
4. Dry fit the rear diff bracket. There are several versions of the bracket for different trucks. You will need to dry fit it to determine which studs will need to be removed and replaced with the supplied studs. Once the studs have been identified, remove the nuts on those studs.
5. Now, use the double nut technique or use a stud wrench to remove the studs. The double nut technique is to use two nuts on the stud. Put both of them on the stud so that the second one is on just far enough to get the stud to come flush with the nut. Then take two wrenches and tighten the nuts against each other to lock them to the stud. If you get them tight enough, you can use an open end wrench on the first nut and back it out of the housing.
6. Install the new studs using the same double nut technique. The studs have a short threaded end and a long threaded end. The short end goes in the differential housing. Place a small amount of RTV or other suitable thread sealant to seal the threads so the diff fluid will not leak out of the threads. Tighten the studs down until they are snug. The longer studs go in the top 2 holes.
7. Notice the recesses machined into the differential around the stud holes. In these recesses you will place the BLACK machined style washers. These washers must fit inside the machined recesses. The bracket will rest on these washers and they will hold the bracket slightly off of the differential. DO NOT OMIT THIS STEP.
Slide the differential bracket over the studs. Install the washers and nuts on the studs. Tighten to factory specifications in your shop manual. There is one nut on each style differential bracket that will be real hard to get a wrench on to tighten it. A crowfoot type wrench on a socket extension works well for this one pesky nut. A flex head Gear Wrench works too.
8. Assemble the bushings and sleeves in the adjustable ends. Using a little bit of lube like WD-40 or white lithium grease makes things easier.
9. Install the adjustable ends in the torque bar and make sure the jam nuts are loose.
10. Install the heim joint into the front end of bar with jamb nut. Hold the bar up next to the brackets and adjust the ends so they are close to fitting correctly. The shackle should go up but can be mounted in the down position too.
11. Lube the rear bushings and install the bar in the rear bracket. Adjust the ends to get the bottom hole to line up. Install the large mounting bolts in the rear diff. They go from the outside toward the diff. Do not tighten anything now.
12. Install the bolt thru the shackle, then the spacer and heim joint. Then thru the second spacer, second shackle and install the nut loosely. Use the adjustment on the heim joint if needed to move the shackles into the proper position( about 90* to the bar). Bolt it into place and tighten all the nuts and bolts.
13. Now tighten all the rear bolts. The best place to start is to find the neutral position of the adjustment where there is no tension on the torque bar. Then adjust it so there is a small amount of tension upward on the front mount. Under acceleration, this is the direction the torque will move the torque bar. From there, you can set the tension anyway you want, but most leave it right there. Now tighten ALL the jam nuts on the turnbuckle are tightened. If you do not properly tighten the jam nuts, there will be an excessive amount of stress placed on the threads and can cause damage to them.
14. Double check your work. Make sure all the nuts and bolts are tightened down. Check for proper clearance between the front mount and the vehicle body. Check bar clearance with muffler. If needed, you can pull the muffler over towards the frame with a universal muffler hanger.
15. Replace the drain plug and refill the differential with proper gear lube and install the fill plug.
16. Test drive the truck and then raise it and inspect everything.
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:13 AM   #13
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My AAL got rid of mine.
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:16 AM   #14
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You could try the cheap fix and do the "reverse helper spring" mod listed in this forum. Basically a set of $25 helper springs from AdvanceAuto or Autozone, but instead of mounting them on the rear of the leaf like the instructions say, you mount them facing forward, ahead of the axle. They really do work, I was skeptical and read a ton of posts about them before I went and spent money, but no more bouncing on starts. And if you don't like them, on $25 spent. I painted mine black so now I can barely tell they're there.
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Old 11-13-2009, 02:34 AM   #15
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yeah i have wheel hop/axle wrap from my block...im fixing that prob by taking the block out
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chad68 View Post
I can't be the only one with it. I'm guessing traction bars should do the trick. trying to figure out how common this wheel hop thing is with these trucks
What is your current lift setup? If its the Revtech kit that has spacers up front and blocks in the rear thats your issue. The leaf springs on our trucks are already soft and adding block=mega axle wrap because you are giving the rear axle more leverage to twist the leaves.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:19 AM   #17
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It's a 1.25" block. I'm really thinking of loosing it and runing stock height rear or a small add a leaf and if I still have wrap then traction bars.
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Old 12-01-2009, 04:54 PM   #18
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It must be my block. With the truck in gear (engine off) and parking brake on (or off), when I rock the truck back and forth, my diff pivots/moves quite a bit more than any stock Tacoma i tried doing this with.

So new lift plan will be, less lift. I will never get the truck leveled with any kind of rear lift anyway, without going well over 3" in the front.

Rear will be going back to stock height and Kings all around (maybe something else in rear) with the fronts set to about 2" maybe only 1.5".

I'm trying to decide for myself if I want to get the Kings now so I can put them in at Christmas or buy my motorcycle in a couple weeks and wait on the truck mods till Spring. I don't quite have $17,000 give or take cash to do both, so one will have to wait a few months.

I might just get the bike and pull out the rear block for now and have the ass end 1/4" lower than the front for the time being.
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:40 AM   #20
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I've noticed that the LSD can cause a similar problem on certain surfaces. Like a ratcheting effect bouncing the truck some. I have dakar springs I'm pretty sure there not gonna wrap much?
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