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Trying to differentiate between OME/5100 or something else - what's the difference?

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Old 11-16-2009, 11:06 AM   #1
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Trying to differentiate between OME/5100 or something else - what's the difference?

I've been dutiful in my research and pouring through information, but I keep finding I'm terribly misinformed or there's a whole new topic to dive down.

I'm just about completely new to offroading, but I'm in a club and trying to be as active as I can. The truck is my only vehicle, my daily driver, and I'm trying to keep it in good condition - so I keep to the easier trails, but I want to make it over your typical stumps and rocks confidently without having to say "nope, can't do this trail".

I'm looking at a 3" lift, and I'm comparing your typical 3 categories - OME, 5100s, or ICON/SAW/King/Fox/etc. For the life of me, I can't figure out what the difference is.

-OME is great, but not rebuildable. Is that a big deal, or only for the extreme guys. I hear you have to rebuild after 3 years - is that only if you are really bombing around and going each week? So far I see that and adjustability as the only diff between that and an ICON/SAW.Fox/King.
-what's the difference between a 5100 and an ICON/SAW/Fox/King? I thought that the difference was performance, but I may be wrong. Why would anyone want to pay extra if the 5100 does everything?
-WTF does the remote reservoir do for you? What type of guy do you have to be to really need it?
-why do you want adjustable springs? Is that if you add stuff later, or am I going to be under the truck dinking with it all the time?


Basically, I have the ability to buy any setup, and I'd like the truck to be more competent than I am, but I don't want to buy something where I'm pole-vaulting over mouse turds.
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Old 11-16-2009, 11:25 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
-OME is great, but not rebuildable. Is that a big deal, or only for the extreme guys. I hear you have to rebuild after 3 years - is that only if you are really bombing around and going each week? So far I see that and adjustability as the only diff between that and an ICON/SAW.Fox/King.
-what's the difference between a 5100 and an ICON/SAW/Fox/King? I thought that the difference was performance, but I may be wrong. Why would anyone want to pay extra if the 5100 does everything?
-WTF does the remote reservoir do for you? What type of guy do you have to be to really need it?
-why do you want adjustable springs? Is that if you add stuff later, or am I going to be under the truck dinking with it all the time?


Basically, I have the ability to buy any setup, and I'd like the truck to be more competent than I am, but I don't want to buy something where I'm pole-vaulting over mouse turds.
Mike-
-In my opinion, the OME's would be fine for you. I mob around on mine quite hard and they've never whined about it. In fact, my rear 5100's have gotten so hot I couldnt hold my hand on them and the OMEs on the front were just a tad warm. That says something about the OMEs to me.
-The difference btw the 5100s and all the popular coilovers will definitely be performance. The 5100's use either the factory spring, or an eibach spring with the Toytec coilover setup, but just like the OME's they arent rebuildable. The toytec setup has a threaded preload collar to adjust the ride height just like a high end coilover.
- The resi's on the Fox's and such are for the real serious offroader. They're there to give the shock more oil capacity through having that external resivoir and with greater capacity comes the ability for the shock to resist fade from overheating. That would only be beneficial in extreme heat or places where you're bombing down a rough fireroad or dunes for a long period of time.
-The adjustment on the springs of the fox/icon/SAW/king coilovers is there via a threaded collar that allows you to finely adjust the amount of spring preload. The spring preload is what determines the ride height of the truck. So, if you add bumpers/sliders/winch/etc later on then you can adjust them accordingly.

Hope that helps a bit. Ask more Q's when ya come across them.
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:11 PM   #4
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So between an OME and a rebuildable, I'm not really gaining anything for myself, huh?
-I've figured that if I was religiously replacing/rebuilding just the front end every 3 years, it would take me almost 9 years for the out-of-pocket cost to break even between OME and SAW/ICON, so I'm not gaining anything cost-wise.
-SAW/ICON/etc is for stuff beyond where I'm currently at. Even if I'm tossing on a bunch more weight, I could just swap out coils on the OME setup and still come out cheaper
-going SAW/ICON/etc is the 'vaulting over the mouse turd' for me it sounds like

Hmm, this changes things.

The guy I talked to was really pushing ICON in front with OME rear, knowing that I was going to have sliders put on first. He also said that he recommended a full rear-leaf replacement rather than just an AAL. With that last part, is he simply trying to make an extra buck or is there a reason for doing this?
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
So between an OME and a rebuildable, I'm not really gaining anything for myself, huh?
-I've figured that if I was religiously replacing/rebuilding just the front end every 3 years, it would take me almost 9 years for the out-of-pocket cost to break even between OME and SAW/ICON, so I'm not gaining anything cost-wise.
-SAW/ICON/etc is for stuff beyond where I'm currently at. Even if I'm tossing on a bunch more weight, I could just swap out coils on the OME setup and still come out cheaper
-going SAW/ICON/etc is the 'vaulting over the mouse turd' for me it sounds like

Hmm, this changes things.

The guy I talked to was really pushing ICON in front with OME rear, knowing that I was going to have sliders put on first. He also said that he recommended a full rear-leaf replacement rather than just an AAL. With that last part, is he simply trying to make an extra buck or is there a reason for doing this?
Well, another benefit to a rebuildable coilover is the ability to custom valve them for a certain terrain/driving style, weight handling, etc. That will also allow for a smoother ride, but be able to handle the larger/harder hits as well. If you really have the money to spend on some coilovers, then hell why not get em. You'll probably be more happy down the road that you did.

As for the rear, sure a leaf pack would be nice, but I dont think its necessary. One of the disadvantages to most aftermarket packs is that they reduce the load carrying capacity a tad. I think there are a few that dont really affect it, but thats one thing to consider. IMO, the factory leaf pack(do you have TSB?) with an aal in it is just fine until you start going higher than 3" or you go so far as doing long travel. Thats when you'd want an aftermarket pack. I have heard some good things about the OME rear leaf packs though, and they dont seem too expensive so that may be something you do actually consider. The OME pack is more of an all around pack than most of the others which are more leaned toward prerunning/long travel.
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:25 PM   #6
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Yes I have TSB
I'd rather keep or increase my bed load capacity - I'm a DIYer and end up finding weird projects. Last thing I did was haul a bunch of 12" or better diameter stones from a quarry to use in a backyard. Sometimes I will go get a load of firewood with my dad/neighbors (haven't done it in this truck yet).
Wasn't sure about getting coils because I need to justify the difference. There's plenty other things I could do with the money, hehe.

I've been trying to do more searching, comparing, getting more opinions, and came across this, which raises the quesitons/statements:
1. They say going OME may lead to compressed springs. If that's the case, I'm more inclined to do coilovers to avoid having to dick around with problems
2. They say an AAL can bust. Is that common for them to break? Anyone had them break?
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
1. They say going OME may lead to compressed springs. If that's the case, I'm more inclined to do coilovers to avoid having to dick around with problems
As of old yes, the newer coils shouldn't do that because they pre=stress them now.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
2. They say an AAL can bust. Is that common for them to break? Anyone had them break?
some of the cheap ones can break, and typically its the short style AAL's(like the procomp's). I havent seen or heard of any of the reputable ones like alcan's breaking. You should check out wheelersoffroad.com for some of the good products to use. They've always been awesome with me and they're local... as a repeat customer, they even give me a little bit of a deal too.
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Originally Posted by Afwrestler1986 View Post
As of old yes, the newer coils shouldn't do that because they pre=stress them now.
yep, he's right.
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:50 AM   #9
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Found some extra info for myself, read here all of you who may be following along.

Talked with Wheeler's, they agree on the OME with AAL. Dang, this is getting better all the time. I can now add UCA's in and be under the cost of the coilover option!

My wallet has more questions:
I'm going to want bigger tires, which probably means trimming. What cost does this incur?
I'm not going to bug anyone with "what size?", I can begin looking that up later, along with backspacing and yadda yadda.
Are hub-centric spacers perfectly fine to add to the stock rims, or is there a fear of weakening something?
Provided I switch rims, are 16" or 17" more desirable? I'm thinking 16", more rubber and less metal = better when aired down...?


Whoa, one more thing:
I thought you said something about getting the OMEs assembled for $40. Why is Wheeler's advertising $225 at the bottom of their page? Is that if they were doing the entire job of mounting to the truck too?
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
Found some extra info for myself, read here all of you who may be following along.

Talked with Wheeler's, they agree on the OME with AAL. Dang, this is getting better all the time. I can now add UCA's in and be under the cost of the coilover option!

My wallet has more questions:
I'm going to want bigger tires, which probably means trimming. What cost does this incur?
I'm not going to bug anyone with "what size?", I can begin looking that up later, along with backspacing and yadda yadda.
Are hub-centric spacers perfectly fine to add to the stock rims, or is there a fear of weakening something?
Provided I switch rims, are 16" or 17" more desirable? I'm thinking 16", more rubber and less metal = better when aired down...?


Whoa, one more thing:
I thought you said something about getting the OMEs assembled for $40. Why is Wheeler's advertising $225 at the bottom of their page? Is that if they were doing the entire job of mounting to the truck too?
I agree with you...16's with more compliance and rubber between road/trail and rim. Trimming won't cost you anything...Rubber may be a bit more expensive...and mpgs may go down. But that's all part of the game..


For Wheelers to assemble them they have to buy about 180 dollars in parts and the shipping is more difficult as well.

I assembled mine for about 20 bucks- I got the top caps on here for about 20 bucks and knew a guy with a wall mounted spring compressor.
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenmunga View Post
Whoa, one more thing:
I thought you said something about getting the OMEs assembled for $40. Why is Wheeler's advertising $225 at the bottom of their page? Is that if they were doing the entire job of mounting to the truck too?
They cost more because they give you new hardware (top plate, etc.). If you take them to a local shop where they would re-use your old parts it would be much cheaper. I think that's the $50 range the previous post mentioned.
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:03 AM   #12
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What I meant with trim cost is how much does it cost to have it done? I heard that there's some deal about moving the front body mount back a few inches for one thing...
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
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What I meant with trim cost is how much does it cost to have it done? I heard that there's some deal about moving the front body mount back a few inches for one thing...
You don't necessarily have to get the cab mount chop done. I don't have an cab mount rubbing....Just plastic.

If you get the cab mount chop done you are looking like like 4-5 hundred bones IIRC.
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brunes View Post
You don't necessarily have to get the cab mount chop done.
So probably only needed if you were trying to get some ridiculous size tires stuffed in there, huh? They plastic I'm guessing I can do on my own with a little bit of patience.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:12 AM   #16
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Cab mount chop is for those trying to fit over a 33, a wide tire, or have the wrong offset on their wheels mainly. if you just try to run some 285/75/16's you should probably be fine. I'm personally going to stuff some 285/75/17's (34's) or some 295/70/17's (33.5) on my truck next time it needs tires. I dont have a problem doing the cab mount chop on mine, and i can do it myself to save the $$.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:40 AM   #17
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The OME rear springs will add weight carrying capacity. They are a duel overload spring, I like them very much, they ride nice, haul lots, and flex very well!
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:44 AM   #18
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