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Camburg Ball Joint UCA Install

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Old 04-07-2010, 12:40 PM   #1
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Camburg Ball Joint UCA Install

For those of you that decide to go this route as I did here is how to install them yourself.

First, read this thread about removal/install of the UCA, I'll fill in how to get the ball joint (b/j) out of your stock UCA and into the Camburg UCA. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/sus...w-install.html

My pictures suck but are good enough.

What you'll need in addition to remove/install:

Ball Joint press (Free at auto store; I got mine at Kragen: $210 deposit and no charge as long as you return it in 5 days)
Needle-Nose pliers
Flat-head screwdriver
Hammer or small sledge
Non petrolium grease (optional, but recommended)

Begin: after the UCA is off the vehicle, first remove the retainer wire from the rubber boot with the needle-nose. Be careful we'll reuse this.


Now you have this off:


Now just work the rubber boot off with your fingers, We reuse this too:


Now take the retainer clip off, If ound a flat-head most useful, just work one end up and walk around it untill it's off, We reuse this too:



Now the fun part (sarcasm) using your ball joint press, press the ball joint out of the stock UCA. The ball joint press comes with instructions and is pretty easy to figure out. Note: Once you have the cups on the ball joint and the C-Clamp it tight, just hit the tightening bar straight down with a hammer until the b/j pops out.


Now wipe down the b/j and put a LIGHT coating of grease around the Camburg UCA where the ball joint fits into it, this will help install of the b/j.

Put the b/j into the Camburg then using the b/j press, press the b/j all the way down. If you cant put the retaining clip into it's groove then you need to keep pressing; make sure the b/j is straight while doing this. Note: I found it easier to use the cups and a hammer and just tap the b/j into place. Notice each UCA is labeled 'Driver' or 'Passenger' side up.



Re-install the retaining clip and pack the b/j with grease. (I use BelRay Waterproof grease)


Then pack some more grease into the rubber boot and install it. Note: it helps to twist as you push to get it on. Then work the retaining wire back on to secure the boot, be careful not tho puncture the boot.


Now go install your new UCA's.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:50 PM   #2
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Also, when you get the kit there are no instructions.

First you'll need to install the zerks: they are self tapping so first begin threading straight in by hand and then tighten all the way down with a socket.

Next install the rubber bushings, they just press in by hand.

Now grease the hell out of the insides of the rubber bushings. The kit comes with grease but I used my own. Fill in the gap between the bushings on the inside, and fill those little channels on the inside of the bushings too. Save a little grease to lube the outside of the bushings where the large washers will sit. You might want to wait to install bushings/grease until after the b/j has been pressed in just so you don't get grease everywhere, or get crap to stick to the grease while handling.

Last thing to do after everything is on the truck: install the ABS wire clamps. Note: during install make sure the wire goes over the top of the UCA, not under it.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Knight View Post
what do you see as advantages to owning these UCA's over others?
The b/j UCA is $260 cheaper than its big brother the Uniball for starters.

Second the b/j UCA needs no maintenace whereas the Uniball needs to be cleaned, lubed and can squeek if its dirty. The Uniball is a racing product and while strength and performance are great, it wasn't designed with considerations for high mileage daily drivers.

Third, it corrects caster after lifts just like other aftermarket UCA's.

Fourth, I think it looks cooler than the comprable Light Racing UCA.

After speaking with Camburg and some other folks (and online research) the Camburg b/j allows for as much travel gains as its beefy brother the Uniball.

The difference is in the strength of the joint between the b/j and the Uniball design. The Uniball is MUCH stronger than the b/j because it was designed for off-road racing. IMO the b/j is plenty strong for most of us and 90% of my miles are on the highway anyway; I never worried about the b/j strength before...

I'm yet to test them out completely, just put them on yesterday. So far it has already ended my wandering front end (before alignment), feels smoother/quieter, and looks nice. I did take travel measurements of the stock UCA and I'll compare them later this week once I can get out and make some new measurements.

And if you're not afraid to do it yourself it is the cheapest option ($70 less than LRs). If you have them professionally installed it will cost the same as the Light Racings in the end.

I got mine through Wheelers Offroad in about 4 days.
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:58 PM   #8
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i dont mean to hijack but why do my camburgs look different? are mine installed correctly? my ball is higher up ...

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Old 04-07-2010, 08:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PreRunner View Post
i dont mean to hijack but why do my camburgs look different? are mine installed correctly? my ball is higher up ...

Oh wow dude, those things are trashed! who installed them?

J/k. yours look different because you have the UNIBALL. The ball joint has a flat top and sits in the bottom, the 'ball' is actually under the contol arm with a b/j, not in it like your uniball setup. Basically that's why yours are stronger than mine... that's where your extra $260 went.
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lrgrnr View Post
Its funny is read the writeup and put blow job where b/j is! How are you likeing thoose SAW's??
Dude, you know haw many times that went through my head writing that! At least I put a '/' between the letters.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:31 AM   #11
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would these work with OME springs..?
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:40 AM   #12
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NV. thanks for the perfectly timed thread.

one question. your truck is relatively new, i assume low mileage. why didnt you just change the BJ?

again, thanks.
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aficianado View Post
NV. thanks for the perfectly timed thread.

one question. your truck is relatively new, i assume low mileage. why didnt you just change the BJ?

again, thanks.
2 reasons: 1st, the reason these are the cheapest UCA option is because you can re-use your stock ball joint, so $avings. And 2, since my truck is new/low miles I figure why replace a perfectly good balljoint when there is lots of life left in the originals still.

After having these on for about 1k miles I'm real happy with them... I don't notice them so that's a good thing, and my steering feels great. No complaints.

I still need to post my before after droop/tuck improvements. It wasn't as much as I had hoped for; not because of the UCA but my bumpstops/LCA are holding them back. At full droop and tuck the UCA still has tons of room to move but other components are now the limiting factor. They definitely feel like they compliment my coilovers much better, it's like the articulation is more 'fluid' and natural feeling. Plus I just flat out like the look.

I'm still looking for a good 'dust cap' to put in the tubing above the b/j just for looks; after getting in some mud that thing packed up fast. It won't affect the b/j but it'll just bug me, plus it would look better IMO if there was a black cap there instead of just the b/j.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:17 PM   #14
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THANKS!

i'm going to do this.
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:38 PM   #15
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now the all time question...can you press in a uniball to these BJ arms when the BJ goes bad...
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfrat View Post
now the all time question...can you press in a uniball to these BJ arms when the BJ goes bad...
Good question. I haven't actually looked closely at a uniball setup; you can buy replacement uniballs for $140 at Wheelers and I'm not sure how it sits in the UCA, maybe a visit to the machine shop for some races and you'll be all upgraded...?
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvdeserted View Post
Also, when you get the kit there are no instructions.

First you'll need to install the zerks: they are self tapping so first begin threading straight in by hand and then tighten all the way down with a socket.

Next install the rubber bushings, they just press in by hand.

Now grease the hell out of the insides of the rubber bushings. The kit comes with grease but I used my own. Fill in the gap between the bushings on the inside, and fill those little channels on the inside of the bushings too. Save a little grease to lube the outside of the bushings where the large washers will sit. You might want to wait to install bushings/grease until after the b/j has been pressed in just so you don't get grease everywhere, or get crap to stick to the grease while handling.

Last thing to do after everything is on the truck: install the ABS wire clamps. Note: during install make sure the wire goes over the top of the UCA, not under it.
Do yours squeak at all? Did you grease the outside of the rubber bushings before you installed them? I did, and I get a squeak from them. I wonder if it is because I greased them.(I used the camburg grease supplied for that.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superwhitetaco10 View Post
Do yours squeak at all? Did you grease the outside of the rubber bushings before you installed them? I did, and I get a squeak from them. I wonder if it is because I greased them.(I used the camburg grease supplied for that.
No, mine have been super quiet. Did you make sure to heavily grease the ball joint and pack the b/j boot full of grease? Dry ball-joints get squeeky/loud real fast.

I did grease the outside flat-lip where the large washers sit, but I did not grease the outside diameter of the bushings where they sit inside the UCA. I don't think it would make a difference either way.

BTW if you decide to regrease stuff, pretty much any will do. I use BelRay waterproof grease on all my stuff and it works great.
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:06 PM   #19
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Sorry for finding the thread late... nice write up, so rep to you sir... my question is about caster and camber...

I read that these use the stock b/j, which I like, (who doesn't like b/j's ) and that they allow for the much needed caster after a lift.

What is the max positive degree of caster these UCA's allow and can you get a 0 degree camber setting after alignment?

I'm torn on which ones to buy after reading the light racing UCA with their adjustable ball joint can boost camber to + 2 degrees... how do the Camburg b/j UCA's measure up?
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Old 01-28-2011, 07:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TacoBow View Post
Sorry for finding the thread late... nice write up, so rep to you sir... my question is about caster and camber...

I read that these use the stock b/j, which I like, (who doesn't like b/j's ) and that they allow for the much needed caster after a lift.

What is the max positive degree of caster these UCA's allow and can you get a 0 degree camber setting after alignment?

I'm torn on which ones to buy after reading the light racing UCA with their adjustable ball joint can boost camber to + 2 degrees... how do the Camburg b/j UCA's measure up?
Its the same as the uniballs (caster wise). The diference is in the joint.
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