1" inch rear block.....

so from what i have read, rear blocks are bad. i can see if you use a 2 or 3 inch block, but would a 1 inch block really be that bad?
does anyone have their OWN experience with 1" blocks? good or bad.

 

I had a 1" block on the back of my 07 to help keep my 35" tires from eating fenders at full compression without limiting bump travel. It did its job and didnt lead to an excessive amount of axle wrap. Would I run one again if I needed it?- sure.
Just no more than 1" and it MUST be cast iron or solid machined billet aluminum. NO CAST ALUMINUM blocks- They break!!

 

i have one.. it does the trick.

 

Thanks guys, anyone else out there with 1" block experience, good or bad?

 

Dont have a 1 inch but a 1 1/2 inch. Have 68000 miles on the truck and not one problem from the block and still rides great. Dont do any offroading all highway miles.

 

thanks, good to hear, im not much of a 4x4er either, too scared to scratch my baby! that's why i was thinking that a 1 inch block wouldn't be that big of a deal. i was just looking to see if anybody has had issues with them but also i'd like to hear from the people that have had zero issues with them.

 

same here on my 13. easy install with 2 jack stands and a jack...you WILL need new u bolts and shocks

 

cool, how does it feel? do you notice any difference? or axle wrap, from what i've read?
i already have 5100's in the back, im probably going with the readylift 1", comes with new u-bolts.

 

I'm running 1" toytec blocks w/rear spring tsb and have had zero issues. I think they say anything over 1.5" is where you begin having issues with axle wrap.

 

how did you do it? i looked under there and thought i could just take off the u-bolts and jack it up to place the block on, lower it down and put on the new u-bolts...... im guessing it's not as easy as that though?

 

It's all keyboard fabrication hype. My streeter and my 4x4 both use my custom steel blocks and have no ill effects. They're better than some add a leaf that has no business squished into your leaf pack creating a shear point on the leaf above it squeaking and killing your ride and your back. Click my sig and buy the best steel blocks you can find. Custom u-bolt options too. Keep 'em 3" or smaller and you'll be fine running blocks. Stay away from cast steel and aluminum junk, now those blocks ARE bad. Basically the ones you'll find in stores.

 

lol, i ordered the readylift 1" blocks already, which are cast iron, but have a lifetime warranty, why do you say they're bad?

 

Its pretty straight forward. Here's the instructions I used, but instead of unbolting the axle all at once I unbolted and installed blocks one side side at a time.

 

I personally didn't have problems with the ones I used until I replaced them with mine, (see pics of them on the scale) Another forum member on a street truck forum said his broke. Here is a pic. Just check your ubolt torque now and then and you should be fine. I offer mine in increments of 1/4" and depending on the height of the lift or drop, I taper the block to avoid having to use those horrible degree shims that pull the pin out of the hole and are made out of a material that is known to crack.

I also offset the pin and hole on my blocks offset from center, to either push the drive shaft back in a 1/2" on lifted trucks since the shaft pulls out some when lifting and do the opposite for my lowering blocks since dropping pushes the shaft inward into the trans and can bottom out inside when hauling or when lowered a lot.

2nd pic is a cast steel block that failed. The reason a lot of aftermarket blocks fail is because they're hollow and the axle pad sits right on the edge and puts pressure on the wall, causing the block to eventually fail. You can see this starting to happen in pic 3. This is most likely why the cast one failed.

 

zero issues with mine... had them on for about 50000 alrdy... damn.... wow.. i drove alot!!
well i dont know how axle wrap feels so...
nothing i that i have noticed so far

 

thanks guys, and thanks brian for taking your time with your comment.
i'll be using the readylift 1" block, hopefully i won't have any issues with them.

 

thanks david. the link doesn't seem to work for me though. i was going to use my tire jack and a couple jack stands, one side at a time. will that be enough?

 

Anytime Jeremy. Your 1"ers should be just fine. Check your u-bolts periodically. I like to paint a white line on the back of the nuts so I can simply look underneath from time to time and make sure they're doing good.

 

It worked ok for me. I was using a hydraulic lift though. Instead of using jack stands on the frame I used them to support the axle. Than lifted the frame via hydraulic lift. You may want to just fallow the Toytec instruction sense your be using the same tools.
Sorry about the bad link. This one should work.

 

I've got a 1" block in the back. Mostly on road driving - have taken it offroad a few times with the block. absolutely no problems. rides great.