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LR uca install initial setting

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Amo-cat3, Oct 19, 2009.

  1. Oct 19, 2009 at 5:35 PM
    #1
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 [OP] Wizard Sleeve Master

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    :confused:Sup guy's,
    My LR uca's arrived today and just need some extra input before I start the install. Since the arms come without the ball joint installed and caster is adjustable what should I set it to when i initially install them (0, 1.0, 1.75, 2.0 degree) so it will be safe to drive to the shop that will do my actuall allignment. I have a 3" spacer lift for now (yeah, i know but please no coilover/spacer wars).
    From what i've been reading i can just bolt them in and my truck should be drivable right? The shop is only 2.5 miles away and don't need to go over 30mph.
    Lastly, anyone have the the torque setting for the ball joint to spindle nut.
    I think that's it, thanx
     
  2. Oct 19, 2009 at 5:37 PM
    #2
    Timicha

    Timicha Timicha

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    ya i just did mine and my friend did his on his 2006 tacoma it should be safe to drive, when i did mine i pm'ed chris4x4 for the torque setting. i think it was 90# for my truck
     
  3. Oct 19, 2009 at 5:44 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    81 lb-ft. :)
     
  4. Oct 19, 2009 at 5:49 PM
    #4
    Timicha

    Timicha Timicha

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    there yu go haha
     
  5. Oct 19, 2009 at 7:54 PM
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    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 [OP] Wizard Sleeve Master

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    thanx guys,
    Timicha - what did you set your caster to when you first put the arms in? how soon did you get an allignment?
     
  6. Oct 19, 2009 at 11:35 PM
    #6
    Timicha

    Timicha Timicha

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    i just put them in and didn't change anything i took it to les shwab the next day
     
  7. Oct 19, 2009 at 11:48 PM
    #7
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    I did the LR UCAs a couple weeks ago like Timicha mentioned. I set them at 0 caster, and put the ball joint all the way out on them for the camber. Alignment visually looks OK like this, and I've actually not had a chance to do the alignment yet. After about 800 miles of driving my tires seem ok still, and it drives ok, but im going to try and get it done ASAP! I fully intended on getting it done within a couple days at most from when I did the install, but my schedule got too busy, then I had to make a 500 mile trip the following weekend and so I just hoped my tires wouldn't wear too excessively. I only paid $400 for the tires though(and I want to upgrade to some bigger ones!) so I didnt really care too much if it wore em down a tad.
    heres a pic if it helps:
    HPIM1291_fe0d9afec4cd3c0700b6e580f9b4c7ac60b4f5b6.jpg
     
  8. Oct 20, 2009 at 1:11 AM
    #8
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 [OP] Wizard Sleeve Master

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    I searched and found some other people who initially set their caster to 0 and pulled the balljoint to the farthest out setting (this is what one SPC engineer told the FJcruiser forum to do). From there they took it to the allignment shop and got their allignment down to spec.
     
  9. Oct 20, 2009 at 5:51 AM
    #9
    SamSter0077

    SamSter0077 Happy Camper

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    SO.. what is perfect spec when you have one of these LR UCAs? Zero toe, Zero Camber, Caster?
     
  10. Oct 20, 2009 at 7:25 AM
    #10
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Toe: 0*
    Camber: 0*
    Caster: 2.9*
     
  11. Oct 20, 2009 at 7:57 AM
    #11
    SamSter0077

    SamSter0077 Happy Camper

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    ok, without the LR UCA and 3"+ of lift, I am:

    Camber Left .5 Camber Right .6 Spec range -0.3 to 1.2
    Caster Left .9 Caster Right 1.1 Spec range 1.4 to 2.9
    Toe 0 Toe .02 Spec range -0.04 to .07

    Caster adjustment is Maxed out on the Left side.

    Technically within spec, but there is a funny feeling in the steering wheel. Not sure how to describe it, at freeway speeds when I hit bumps or cracks in the road the wheel feels "jiggly".. (you only feel it in the steering wheel). I am told with the LR UCA, this will be fixed.

    Will post my "After" measurements when I get them delivered and installed.


    Thanks Chris.
     
  12. Oct 20, 2009 at 9:49 AM
    #12
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 [OP] Wizard Sleeve Master

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    Is this good with 3" lift and 265/70/17 tires? Let's say we never had to worry about rubbing issues would those numbers be the same for all tire sizes?
     
  13. Oct 20, 2009 at 10:28 AM
    #13
    Evil Monkey

    Evil Monkey There's an evil monkey in my truck

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    HPIM1291_fe0d9afec4cd3c0700b6e580f9b4c7ac60b4f5b6.jpg

    Just a head's up. I don't know if they fixed it so it can't go in wrong but on the LR UCAs make sure you get the gold bar under the arm in the right way like RT's picture (letters/flat side on the outside). On my set, it was possible to put it in backwards. If it's backwards, it won't align correctly.

    Here's a picture of it put in wrong (rounded side out):
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Oct 20, 2009 at 2:10 PM
    #14
    SamSter0077

    SamSter0077 Happy Camper

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    Thanks for the heads up EVIL Monkey!
     
  15. Oct 20, 2009 at 2:13 PM
    #15
    gupster88

    gupster88 Well-Known Member

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    i set my ball joint to 0*, aligned perfectly
     
  16. Feb 4, 2010 at 6:29 PM
    #16
    cdn_bacon

    cdn_bacon Well-Known Member

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    Alright, time to resurrect this thread! I'm going to install my LR UCAs this weekend and it appears that most people set em at 0 and all the way out however I caught a link on another thread which directs to an FJ forum where dude talked to LR tech and was told to set em all the way in and +2.5.

    so what do I have to do to get a good alignment?

    ...also was the new UCA's suppose to come with a new bolt to connect to the chasis?
     
  17. Feb 4, 2010 at 8:01 PM
    #17
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    No new bolt with them so either re-use the one on the truck, or buy new ones and then cut the factory ones to more easily remove them. For me, I actually had to turn the ball joint one notch toward the back for extra clearance on my coil at the suspension's full droop and then get it aligned that way. I think I ended up with a bit extra caster, but thats fine with me as its not a wear angle on tires.
     
  18. Feb 4, 2010 at 10:06 PM
    #18
    cdn_bacon

    cdn_bacon Well-Known Member

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    Do you know what size and type of bolt (just in case)?

    ...also what tools and size sockets are needed?
     
  19. Feb 4, 2010 at 11:10 PM
    #19
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    The bolt is a very long and fine thread. Its probably something that would have to be ordered directly from the dealer.
    Its been a while since I did mine, I cant remember all of the tool sizes. I do know you need a 10mm for the brake line bracket, then I think the main UCA bolt was like a 17, or 19, maybe even a 21mm. And the ball joint is probably a 17 or 19mm. Make sure you have a torque wrench to do the final torque on everything too. The nut that tightens the ball joint to the LR UCA was larger than everything else iirc, so make sure you have a socket that large before starting.
     
  20. Feb 5, 2010 at 9:02 AM
    #20
    SamSter0077

    SamSter0077 Happy Camper

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    you would move it forward if you had a bigger tire, and wanted to clear the body mounts without trimming. With the Stock bumper, you will probably have to deal with the front trim though.

    Just buy new ones from Toyota, and cut the old ones off to make it easy. Honestly, they really aren't that hard to remove though IMO.
     

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