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How-To: 1GR-FE Supercharger Installation

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Old 07-09-2010, 08:58 PM   #1
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How-To: 1GR-FE Supercharger Installation

This guide is intended to supplement, not replace, the TRD installation instructions included with the fit kit. This guide does not contain all the information you need for a successful install and so should not be used exclusively as a step-by-step for installation. These are going to be very detailed instructions so some of you who have done your fair share of wrenching might start rolling your eyes – that’s okay – I wanted to give someone that was hesitant to do the install on their own as much guidance as possible and give them the best shot at saving the several hundred $$$. This is really not that hard!

This installation was done on a 2010 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Sport. Installation on other years may differ slightly. The installation was done with parts PTR29-35090 (supercharger) and PTR29-35100 (fit kit).

The S/C installation takes a lot of time and requires attention to detail. None of the installation is overly difficult and I did it solo in 18 hours, including 3 meals, a short nap, a trip to the auto parts store, and all these photos and notes, but not including the crank pulley bolt removal, which I did prior to the install.

IMO, you should have the knowledge, tools, and skills to do oil/coolant change, air filter change/intake installation, spark plug replacement, engine accessory drive belt replacement, and minor electrical work. You should set aside 2 days for this project and have someone available to help if needed. If your truck is your only vehicle, definitely line up a ride in case you need to make a emergency trip to the autoparts store.

My truck had the All-Pro bumper installed with the light hoop. This gave me a place to sit while working on the upper part of the motor. This was especially helpful because my truck is lifted 3”. If you can’t easily access the center of the firewall, you should get or build something that will allow you to work there, or plan on sitting on the upper radiator brace with your feet on the valve covers.

Ok…with all that out of the way, lets get started! Remember, use this guide in addition to the TRD instructions! I’ll include the steps that each set of photos correspond to in the TRD instructions. These may not correspond with fit kits other than PTR29-35100

Here is a link to the TRD S/C Installation Instructions for PTR29-35091, which is the Tacoma fit kit prior to the current one, PTR29-35100. The installation instructions appear to be identical, with the exception of the last step, the ECU reflash. PTR29-35091 covered up to the ’09 MY. The current kit, PTR29-35100 covers all Tacomas, ’05-’10. If someone finds a link to the install instructions for PTR29-35100 please send it to me so I can update this link.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/ProdPDF/TRD_PTR29-35091_TACOMA.pdf

In photos, I’ve marked parts with the steps in the instructions that they correspond to. Arrows point towards the front of the truck.

Preparation

The very first thing you need to do is verify that ALL your parts are included in the installation kit. The first 3 pages of the TRD instructions are all parts inventory. Take the time to go through this. You do not want to be midway through the install and realize that you are missing a critical part. Keep the parts in the bags for now and just verify that they are all there.

Prior to the installation, you should line up a dealer that will do the ECU reflash which is required at the very end of the job. Also, you should have run at least a full tank of premium fuel (91 octane or higher) through the truck since the supercharger requires premium fuel.

In addition to a basic ½ and 3/8” drive metric socket set, wrench set, allen key set, and other common tools, you’ll need the following;
-Minimum 2 gallons of Toyota Super Long Life Coolant, the pink stuff. It’s about $20/gal.
-Anti seize compound for spark plugs
-Digital camera
-Sharp knife or hose cutter
-Vise grips and/or channel lock pliers
-Hacksaw or preferably a Dremel with cutter wheels.
-Tape measure
-Clean container for coolant (if you want to reuse your coolant)

Also, I did Step 8G and 8H (crankshaft pulley bolt) in advance of the actual supercharger installation. This is the hardest part of the installation. I found an easier way to do it that I was more comfortable with than other recommended methods. Here is a link to the How-To;

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/97482-crank-pulley-bolt-removal-easy-way.html

Set up your workspace and get organized. If you get a mess of tools everywhere, clean them up and put them back where they belong. So much time can be wasted hunting for tools on large jobs. Protect your fenders – you’ll be spending a lot of time leaning over them. Pants w/ no metal studs and no belts also helps keep from scratching. Also, remove the front grille first by removing two 10mm screws and 2 black plastic pop rivets. Remove your engine skid plate if you have one.





Installation

Air cleaner removal, Step 2

Remove the two 10mm nuts and remove the engine cover, step 2A.

If you have a stock intake, follow steps 2B through 2D. If you have a TRD or similar intake do the following;



-Loosen the 4 hose clamps at the red couplings that hold the intake tube to the air box and throttle body, marked with yellow ticks.
-Disconnect the MAF sensor plug
-Disconnect the small vacuum hose from the intake tube
-Disconnect the large vacuum hose from the intake tube
-Pull the red coupling on the throttle body side over the intake tube to free this end. Then pull the intake tube and coupling off the airbox side and set it aside. It is not necessary to remove the airbox.

Throttle Body Removal, Step 3

Disconnect the throttle body connector. It is by my thumb. Remove the four 10mm bolts to free the throttle body. Do not disconnect the two coolant hoses at the bottom of the throttle body.





Air Intake Surge Tank Removal, Step 4

Steps 4A thru 4C – Disconnect the vacuum hoses, sensor connectors, and harnesses as shown in the pics







Step 4C calls for the removal of 4 wire harness clamps. There is a dual clamp on a metal bracket which I could not get loose. Instead, I removed the bracket from the surge tank by removing one 10mm bolt. The others are snap in types. Use needle nose pliers to press in the sides and lift out. In areas where you can’t get pliers in there, use a screwdriver to press and lift out one side at a time.





Step 4D – Remove the 3 bolts that secure the surge tank to the brackets. Remove and discard the bracket at the front of the motor. The directions call for the removal of the brackets on the right side of the motor. I did not do this.







Step 4E – You will need an 8mm allen wrench or socket to remove the 4 center bolts that hold the surge tank down. The two outside bolts are 12mm. After you get these off, lift the surge tank carefully off the motor. If you forgot to disconnect something in the previous steps, you will not be able to get the surge tank off.



STEP 4F, DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP
Use tape to cover the intake ports. You’re going to be doing a lot of work here over the next several steps and you do not want to drop something in here.

Step 4G - Remove the 2 studs from the intake manifold. The TRD instructions call for a E5 external torx socket. This may be a typo since an E5 wouldn’t fit and I used an E7. These studs are not reused so you can grip the torx head with vise grips and get it off.



Fuel Injector Replacement, Step 5

Step 5A – It took me a little while to figure this out. Slide the covers off the fuel connectors, then press in the buttons on the connector and pull it off the fuel tube. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to do this and you do not need to use any tools. Some gasoline will come out when you do this. Do not bend or twist the fuel line too much.





Step 5B – Disconnect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors. Its pretty much impossible to mix these up so don’t worry about reconnecting injector 5 to cylinder 6 and so forth. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the fuel line and injectors to the intake manifold. Save these bolts. Gently lift the u-shaped fuel line and all 6 injectors as a unit off the intake manifold and set it down so you can work on it.





Step 5C – Pull the 6 injectors out of the delivery pipe. Gently twist and pull the injectors out. Gas will come out when you do this. Pay careful attention to the two gaskets on the fuel injectors. Make sure that the smaller gasket does not get left behind in the delivery pipe fitting. 5 out of 6 injectors that I pulled out left the small gasket in the delivery pipe. In the below photo, the upper injector is assembled. The lower photo shows the two gaskets, pulled off the lower injector.



Step 5D – Lubricate the gaskets on the new high flow injectors with gasoline and install them into the fuel delivery pipe by turning it and pressing it in. Orient the connectors so they face outward.

Step 5E – Lubricate the insulators on all 6 injectors and then place all 6 new injectors and the fuel delivery pipe as a unit into the intake manifold. Double check and make sure all 6 injector connectors face towards the sides of the truck, not the center of the motor. Install the 6 bolts that hold the injectors in place and tighten to 11lb.ft. Reconnect all 6 electrical connectors.

Step 5F – Reconnect all 6 connectors to the fuel injectors.

Step 5G, reconnect the fuel pipe connectors. The grey cover is on the left, the black on the right. It is not possible to mix these two up.
Double check your work. Messing up here will require removal of the supercharger, drive belt, vacuum hoses, etc etc to fix it.

Step 5H – Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the wire loom off the stud on the left valve cover.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:58 PM   #2
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Spark Plug Replacement, Step 6

Step 6A – Unplug the connectors from all 6 ignition coils. It is not possible to mix up the connectors so its safe to disconnect all of them at the same time.

Step 6B/6C – Remove the 6 bolts. I removed 1 ignition coil and replaced 1 spark plug at a time so that I could make sure that each ignition coil went back to the same cylinder. The plugs are supposed to be gapped to 0.08mm/0.032”. I missed this step and just put them in, but the truck runs fine. Make sure the spark plug boot comes out with the ignition coil. Put a little anti-seize compound on the new plugs and tighten them down. Screw them in by hand first so you don’t cross thread the plugs. Then, tighten with a ratchet driver. You will feel some light resistance as the crush washer on the plugs crushes. Then it will firm up. Once you feel the resistance firm up you know the washer is crushed. Snug up just a tad from there and you’re good.



Coolant, Fan, & Fan Shroud Removal, Step 7

Step 7A – Remove the 9 plastic pop rivets and the upper radiator cover.



Step 7B – Drain engine coolant. Connect a hose to the nipple on the lower driver’s side of the radiator. Remove the radiator fill cap. Loosen the radiator drain plug until coolant starts to flow. Do not remove the drain plug or you’ll have a big mess. Drain the coolant into a clean container so you can reuse it.

NOTE: I chose to drain from the radiator only. I did not remove the engine drain plugs. Its up to you if you want to drain coolant from the block, but I did not look for the drain bolts and so don’t have a photo of them.



NOTE: I skipped step 7B, part V, drain coolant from the reservoir tank. It is not necessary.

Step 7C – Remove the top radiator hose. The hose clamps are on there tight. I recommend using a vise grip to clamp them open and work them away from the ends of the hose. If your vise grip isn’t opening them enough, get the vise grip clamped down and then use another tool to turn the adjuster to loosen the hose clamp further. After you slide the hose clamps away from the ends about 1 1/2”, use a set of channel locks to grip the hose and twist it. You’ll feel and hear the seal break and then you’ll be able to start working the hose off the nipple on the radiator and thermostat housing. Do not squeeze too hard with the channel locks or you’ll risk cracking the nipples.





Step 7D, 7E, 7F – I didn’t get photos of these steps. Remove the coolant overflow hose from the radiator. It is located just under the fill cap. Use a 12mm box end wrench on the 4 nuts that hold the fan to the pulley. Look on the back of the radiator on the upper left and right sides. Remove the two black bolts that attach the fan shroud to the radiator. Carefully get the fan assembly off the fan pulley. If it is stuck, hold the fan blades and gently work the fan out. Be careful not to let the fan come off and run into the back of the radiator. After you free the fan from the pulley, lift the fan and shroud out together.



Step 7G – DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. Cut and tape a piece of cardboard to the back of the radiator to cover and protect it. You’ll be doing a lot of work in front of the motor. The cooling fins on the radiator are very soft and all it takes to bend them is a bump with your hand or tool.



Step 7H, 7I – Reinstall the four 12mm nuts onto the fan pulley so that you don’t loose them. Two of them should be finger tight against the pulley to keep the pulley from sliding off the studs. Remove the lower radiator hose using the vise grips and channel locks like you did with the upper radiator hose. I left the lower radiator hose on until it was time to replace it. You can remove it now, or wait until later.

Auxiliary Drive Pulleys, Step 8

Step 8A – Loosen the tension on the accessory drive belt and remove the belt from the power steering pulley. If looking at the motor from the front, the pulley is on the far left. If you’re under the motor with your legs out the front of the truck, the pulley will be on your far right. The tensioner pulley is just above and offset slightly from the crank pulley. Look at the diagrams on the TRD instructions. They are drawn showing the pulley orientation as you’re looking at the front of the motor. Use a 12mm socket on the tensioner pulley to relieve the belt tension with one hand, and slide the belt off the P/S pulley with the other. Do not put your fingers between the belt and the pulley. If you lose grip on the tensioner you’ll get pinched good.







Step 8B – Remove Idler No 1. Idler 1 is located right next to the crankshaft pulley at the bottom of the motor, right below the tensioner pulley that you just used. Pay attention to which side is front/rear.



Take out parts bag C;



Step 8C – Install one of the double ended M10 studs where the bolt for Idler 1 was. From the motor side out, the parts should be; stock idler pulley, step washer (if present), the short idler spacer with no groove (part C11), the 5-rib idler pulley (part C4) with the snap ring facing the motor, and the short spacer (part C9).







Step 8D – Remove Idler No. 2. It is located between the fan pulley and the alternator, right under the oil filter housing.



Step 8E – Install the other doubled ended M10 studs where the bolt for Idler 2 was. From the motor side out, the parts should be stock idler pulley, step washer (if present), the longer idler spacer with groove (part C10), the smooth idler pulley (part C3), and the other short spacer (part C9).



Step 8F – Reinstall the accessory drive belt. Use the tensioner to give you enough slack to route the belt around the power steering pulley. Again, keep your fingers from between the belt and pulley. Before proceeding, check each and every pulley that touches the belt and make sure that the belt is centered on the pulley. Loosening the belt will often cause the belt to shift so that not all the ribs are in the pulley grooves. Anytime you loosen the belt tension, check every pulley.

Step 8G, 8H – Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and install the new longer bolt and additional crankshaft pulley. This is really the hardest part of the installation. I did this way in advance of this install day. People have used cheater bars, the starter motor, and impact guns to get the crank pulley bolt off. I used a floor jack and a breaker bar. One person commented that this is some backwoods way of doing it. Whatever, it worked and I was more comfortable doing it this way than laying a wrench against the frame and turning the ignition to run the starter motor to break the bolt loose. After I got it set up, I got the bolt off with one hand. Here is a link to the how to for the crank pulley bolt;

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/97482-crank-pulley-bolt-removal-easy-way.html

Step 8I – I recommend doing this together with the next step, 9A.

Install the Auxiliary Tensioner Assembly (Supercharger Belt Tensioner) – Step 9

Step 9A – Install the belt tensioner assembly (part C1) by removing the two 10mm nuts from the two studs that hold the new Idler 1 and 2 and sliding the belt tensioner assembly onto the two 10mm studs. Route the supercharger drive belt as shown in the photo below. After you get this in here reinstall the two 10mm nuts onto the studs finger tight.



Step 9B – Remove the top/forward A/C compressor mounting bolt. The easiest way to do this is to remove the mud guard on the driver’s side fender well so you can access the A/C mounting bolt from the wheel well. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop out the 5 plastic rivets.



Step 9C, 9D – Install the tensioner support bracket (Part C5). The bracket attaches to the A/C compressor using the bolt you just removed, and to the auxiliary tensioner assembly using a new M8x16mm bolt (part c8).





Installation of the Water Manifold Spacers, Step 10

Step 10A – Take a photo of the water manifold first so you can put the various hoses back in the right spots. Note that coolant will come out of these fittings if you did not drain the coolant from the block when you drained the radiator in Step 7B.
Remove the 2 hoses that go to the throttle body, the two small and one large hose, and if you have an oil cooler, the two hoses that go to the oil cooler.



Step 10B – Remove the 5 bolts that hold the water manifold to the motor and remove the manifold. If you did not drain the engine block in Step 7B, get ready for a quart or so of coolant to come from the motor when you pull the water manifold. Do not try to save this coolant for reuse. It will touch the exterior parts of the motor and may pick up dirt and other contaminants. After the install I just cleaned the mess with a gentle spray of water and a rag.





Step 10C, 10D, 10E – Take out parts bag G and put the small o-ring (G4) into the groove on the water pipe spacer (G2). Use a bit of lube on the o-ring and the inner bore of the water pipe spacer. I didn’t have lithium grease so I used WD-40. Push the spacer into the water manifold.

Step 10F, 10G – No photos, sorry. Install the larger o-ring (G3) into the groove in the thermostat spacer (G1). The thermostat spacer is the block with 3 holes in it. Use some lube to hold it in place – don’t skip this. Put 3 M6x55 bolts (G6) into the water manifold and then slide the thermostat spacer onto these bolts with the o-ring facing towards the water manifold.

Step 10H – Install the water manifold back onto the motor using the 3 bolts from the previous step. Keep an eye on the gasket on the thermostat spacer. Make sure it stays in place when you reinstall the water manifold. Tighten the 3 bolts just snug enough to keep the gasket on the thermostat spacer in place.

Step 10I – Place the 2 spacers (G5) behind the two upper mount points and use M6x55 (G6) bolts. Tighten all 5 bolts.



Step 10J – If your truck has an oil cooler, cut ½” off the oil cooler coolant lines where they attach to the water manifold. The instructions warn that if you skip this step the oil cooler lines will hit the radiator fan.



Step 10K – Reconnect all hoses. The above photos and the ones that you took will be helpful here.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:59 PM   #3
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Installation of the Support Bracket, Step 11

You’ll need parts bag F for this step.



Step 11A, 11B – On the driver’s side of the motor there are two intake manifold supports. Remove the one closest to the firewall. This bracket is stamped with the letter C. If your truck has a manual transmission, you will need to undo one nut to free the clutch line bracket from the support bracket. Replace the stock support bracket with part F1, which is stamped with the letter B.





Step 11C – Remove the A/C wire harness from the stud on the valve cover and the alternator bracket. Remove the wire harness from the front surge tank stay and turn this bracket around 180 degrees.







Note; I took a photo of the wrong bracket here. The one you need to rotate is marked with the line. On the TRD instructions, look for the arrow that points to the bracket that needs to be flipped. The arrow is hard to see in the pictures.

Installation of the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) Assy, Step 12

Step 12A – Get the stock intake manifold back out. You’ll need to remove the VSV from the left-rear side of the manifold. Remove the VSV only – you do not need to remove the hose from the manifold at this time.



Step 12B, 12C – Using the VSV bracket (F3), install the VSV to the forward stud on the oil filler neck.



Step 12D – Plug the electrical connector to the VSV. There is only one connector that will fit that is close enough to reach the VSV and it will be on the driver’s side valve cover.

Step 13 – Preparation for Supercharger Housing Installation

Step 13A – Get the stock intake manifold again. Remove the intake port gasket from the bottom of the manifold and remove the throttle body o-ring. Pull up at the tap at the end of each gasket. Carefully pull the gasket up so that it does not tear. If you have trouble getting it out, work it out with a pick. Do not force the gasket by pulling it or it may break.





Step 13B – Take the foam padding that covered the top of the supercharger out of the box. Flip it over and lay it on the ground, then set the supercharger upside down on the foam padding. Do not lift the supercharger by the valve on the back of the housing. There is a sticker on the valve that specifically warns against doing this. Then, install the gaskets removed in the previous step.



Step 13C, 13D – Take the foam padding that supported the bottom of the supercharger out of the box and lay it on the ground. Set the supercharger on top of the foam. Remove the 12 M6 bolts that attach the top cover to the supercharger housing. Do not remove the bolt that is between the two coolant nipples. Carefully pull the cover straight up. Be careful not to damage the foam seal that is around the intercooler. Set the intercooler down on the cover side so it doesn’t get damaged.





Step 13E – There should have been a bag with 6 bolts attached with thin wire to the supercharger housing. Remove the wire and open up this bag. Thread the bolts into the holes next to the intake manifold. Use a socket driver to drive them in. Once you clear the threads, the bolts will fall through and ‘float’ on the shanks. Thread them in by hand first and make sure the bolts are not cross threaded. When you screw these in there will be more than normal resistance and it will feel like you might be stripping them. Just make sure that they are threaded right before you start turning them in.



Installation of the Supercharger Housing, Step 14

Step 14A, 14B – Get all loose tools out of the engine bay and off your person. Remove the tape that you used to cover the intake ports. If you have a buddy, have them help you get the S/C housing onto the top of the motor. If not, lay a towel across your bumper and top of the motor. Lift the S/C housing onto the towel and make sure it wont’ fall. Then, stand on the front of the two valve covers and lift the S/C housing into place. You may be able to get it into place from the ground if your truck isn’t lifted. Be careful not to lift the S/C housing by the valve on the back. There is a label on it that it should not be lifted from that part.

Once you have it in place, turn the 6 bolts in slightly. You can get 5 of them with a ratchet driver and extension. You’ll need to use a u-joint with your ratchet driver or a regular wrench to get to one bolt that is under the housing cover.

Step 14C – There are two brackets for the surge tank that are attached to the right side of the motor. Use the original bolts from the surge tank to attach these brackets to the S/C housing. I had to loosen the lower bolt that mounts to the motor to get the bracket into position with the S/C housing. Don’t fully tighten these bolts yet.





Step 14D – Get out parts D1 and three of D2 (M8 bolts). Install the upper idler bracket assy (D1) to the front of the S/C housing (two bolts) and to the front of the motor (one bolt). The mounting bolts on the S/C housing are right under the drive pulley.





Step 14E – Tighten all the fasteners in this order. When you are done, double check and make sure you did not miss any;
-Intake manifold – 6 bolts
-Side support brackets – 2 bolts on the S/C housing, 2 bolts at the motor (if you loosened them to get the brackets in place)
-Idler pulley assy – 3 bolts total; 2 on the S/C housing, 1 on the motor. All bolts should be tightened to 21ft.lb.



Step 14F – Reinstall the S/C top cover (with the attached intercooler). Check that the o-ring in the housing is still in place. Torque the 12 M6 bolts to 9ft.lb if you have the right torque wrench. I just did them tight with a ratchet driver.



Step 14G – Install the S/C belt drive. Take a careful look at the diagram in Fig 14-4 in the TRD instructions and make sure it is routed exactly this way. You will need to loosen the S/C belt tensioner. It is circled in the below photo and you will need to use a ½” ratchet driver to loosen it. When you pull up on it, the entire arm with the tensioner pulley will move up. Get the belt routed the right way first, then pull up on the tensioner and slip it over the S/C drive pulley. Make sure that the belt is centered on all the pulleys, especially the pulleys that are ribbed.



Installation of the Fan/Shroud Assy, Hoses, and Throttle Body, Step 15

Step 15A – Reinstall the cooling fan and radiator shroud. You will need to hold the fan inside the shroud while you lower it into place. I recommend getting the fan and shroud into the motor, get the fan onto the pulley, then remove the cardboard that is protecting the radiator. There are two flat clips that hold the bottom of the shroud in. Make sure these seat properly. Then, install the two black bolts to the top right and top left sides of the radiator fan shroud. The fan shroud should be flush against the radiator and should not wiggle around when you’re done.

Step 15B – Reinstall the top radiator hose. One end goes to the radiator, the other to the thermostat water manifold.

Step 15C – Install the throttle body to the S/C housing. This goes onto the S/C housing the same way that it went onto the surge tank. Use the four long stock bolts to attach the throttle body to the S/C housing. Make sure the gasket stays in place. Reconnect the 2 hoses from the throttle body to the water manifold if you haven’t done so already.



Step 15D, 15E, 15F – Cut 2.5” from the bottom end of the new lower radiator hose (K1). Use the screw clamps (H11) to install the lower radiator hose. Turn the cooling fan and check the belts to make sure they will not hit the hose or clamps. Your clearance will be pretty tight. Mine is around ¼”

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Preparation for the Low Temperature Radiator (LTR), Step 16

The installation of the intercooler assy takes a while, so be aware of this. This intercooler actually took me the longest time out of the whole installation.

Step 16A – If you haven’t done this already, remove the grill. On the top of the grill there are 2 clips at the far left and right edges of the grill and 2 screws on top inboard of the 2 clips. Undo these 4 and you can lift the grill straight up.

Step 16B – Remove the 2 bolts and hood lock release lever cover.



Step 16C – Remove the 3 bolts and the hood lock assy. Let the lock hang from the cable and take care that it doesn’t damage the radiator fins.



Step 16D – Disconnect the electrical connectors for the horns and remove the horns. There are 2 10mm bolts that hold the horn brackets to the radiator support. Pinch the clip on the rear of the temperature sensor with pliers and push the clip out of the hood support bracket.

Step 16E – Unbolt the transmission oil cooler. My truck is a manual so I do not have a trans oil cooler. If yours is an auto with tow package you will have this cooler. The directions warn against disconnecting the fluid lines.

Step 16F – Remove the hood support bracket. I have the All-Pro bumper installed so I did not have to remove the 2 plastic retainers, only the 2 bolts mentioned in these instructions.

Step 16G – Do not skip this step. There is a small plastic grommet towards the bottom of the factory hood support bracket. Remove this grommet and install it into the new hood support bracket. On the bottom of your grill is a plastic spike. This spike goes into this grommet and helps to secure the lower part of the grill. The new hood support bracket is packaged in the fit kit box with the LTR.



Step 16H – Be careful when handling the LTR. Hold it by the edges and take care not to bend the small cooling fins on the front and back faces. Place the 2 rubber grommets (A3) into the bottom of the LTR. Take a close look at the diagram in the instructions for the orientation of the grommets. It should look like the second photo;


Parts Bag A



Installation of the LTR, Intercooler Pump, Latch and Horn Assy, Step 17

Step 17A – Install the LTR by sliding the rubber grommets at the bottom over the vertical flange on the lower radiator support. Hold the lock assy and temperature sensor out of the way and push the LTR back against the upper radiator support.



Step 17B, 17C – Get out the intercooler pump (I1) and the 2 larger ‘Adel’ clamps and two M6x16mm bolts. Hand shape the Adel clamps so they are round but make sure that the holes at the two ends line up. Once you do this, place the clamps over the intercooler pump and orient it on the hood support bracket as shown in the diagram, then install the hood support bracket back onto the radiator supports using the original fasteners (2 bolts, 2 plastic retainers).







Step 17D – Install the hook lock assy (the part that’s dangling by the cable). Use the 3 original bolts to reinstall it. Torque to 9ft.lbs.

Step 17E – Set up your Dremel or use a hacksaw for this step. Take the hook lock protector that you removed in Step 16B. It will need to be trimmed in 3 spots – the two LTR mounting tabs and the hood support bracket. When you’re done it will look something like this;



Step 17F – Reinstall the hood lock protector using the 2 original bolts and torque to 9ft.lbs. Route the horn wiring to the driver’s side of the hood support bracket. Mount the temp sensor to the hood support bracket. There is an opening in the hood support bracket for the clip on the temp sensor.

Step 17G – Again, my truck was a manual so I did not have to do this step. There is a space on the hood support bracket for the inboard end of the trans oil cooler. Mount this using the original bolt. Then, take parts A5, A6, A7 (spacer, M6x50mm bolt, and washer) and install the outboard end of the trans oil cooler.

From what I see in the pictures, the stock trans oil cooler is mounted right in front of the radiator. The LTR is installed in front of the radiator and then the trans oil cooler is spaced out in front of the LTR.

Step 17H – Make sure the intercooler pump outlet points up (look at the orientation from the photo in Step 17B), then tighten the mounting bolts to 9ft.lb.

Step 17I – Reinstall the horns using two spacers (A8) and two M8x30mm bolts (A9)



Step 17J – Get out Parts Bag J and open it up. Find the section of ¾” hose with the 90 degree offset S-bend in it. Place 2 spring clamps 2” onto the end of each end of the hose. Take a bit of clean coolant and wet the inside of the coolant hose, then slide the hose onto the bottom outlet on the LTR and to the intercooler pump outlet. The intercooler pump outlet is the nipple facing up in the photo from Step 17B. Once you have the hose on, use pliers or vise grips to pinch the clamps and slide them towards the end of the hose to secure it in place.


Parts Bag J

<<Reminder to self…take and post photo of intercooler hose>>

Step 17K – If you have a trans oil cooler, cut a 4” section off the coil of 1” split wire loom in Parts Bag J and install it on the coolant hose you just installed where it wraps around the trans oil cooler.

Installation of the Intercooler Tank and Hoses, Step 18

The instructions recommend removing the battery and fuse box to avoid damaging the wiring harness that feeds into the fuse box. I chose to skip this step. Instead, I was careful and gentle with the hose and wire routing.

Take a look at the two pictures of the brake booster. If your truck has the TRD Off Road package which includes A-TRACS, you’ll need to turn to page 30 for Step 18 Alternate. Mine is a TRD Sport without A-TRACS so this how-to will proceed with Step 18. The only differences between the two steps are the hose lengths to cut and the brackets used to install the intercooler coolant reservoir. If you are following Step 18 Alternate, take care to follow the TRD instructions exactly and use this guide only as a general reference.

Step 18A – Get out Parts Bag I and mount the intercooler reservoir tank (I2) to the reservoir bracket using the 3 bolts that are pre-installed in the reservoir tank.



Step 18B – Get out Parts Bag A and mount the intercooler reservoir bracket to the 2 holes in the driver’s side fenderwell. The mount holes are right behind the fuse box. Tighten to 9ft.lb.



Step 18C, 18D, 18E – Follow the instructions and cut the coolant hoses and wire looms to the correct lengths. Try and get straight cuts on the coolant hoses. You will take a 96” long piece of ¾” coolant hose, cut it into 54” and 42” lengths. Then you will take the 1” wire loom and cut it into two 29” and two 17” lengths. You will then take the 54” length of coolant hose and slide one of the 29” sections of wire loom onto this hose. The wire loom should be centered on the hose.

The instructions call for you to slide a spring clamp 2” (H2) onto one end of the hose, then install a screw clamp (H5) onto the opposite end. Do not install the spring clamp yet. Go ahead and install the screw clamp. Delaying the installation of the spring clamp makes it easier to route the coolant hose and also prevents it from cutting up any wiring as you slide the hose under the fuse box in the next step.

Step 18F – Before you start running the intercooler hoses, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the plastic tab on the driver’s side of the fuse box to the fender. This will allow you to move the fuse box around slightly, giving you more clearance to slide the coolant hose under it.

Take the hose/wire loom assembly you made in the last step and place the end with the screw clamp by the intercooler coolant reservoir. Then, run the bare end of the hose along the driver’s side fenderwell, under the fuse box, and through the opening behind the driver’s side headlight. You are trying to route this hose towards the intercooler pump in front of the LTR.

Once you have the hose routed correctly, wet the inside of both ends of the hose with coolant and slide the screw clamp end onto the intercooler coolant reservoir outlet (bottom nipple that points towards the front of the truck. Then, take a spring clamp (H2) and install it 2” onto the end of the hose, push it into the intercooler pump inlet (horizontal nipple on the intercooler pump from Step 17B). Then compress the spring clamp and slide it onto the nipple. Adjust the 1” wire loom that covers this hose so that it protects the coolant hose where it runs through the opening behind the headlight.









Step 18G – Take the 42” section of ¾” coolant hose and slide the other 29” section of 1” loom over it and center it on the hose. The instructions call for you to install a spring clamp on both ends of this hose and a 3/4x3/4” hose fitting on one end. Skip this step for now – it will make the hose easier to route like before.

Step 18H – Learn from my mistake here. The instructions say “Take the 4”x60” molded coolant hose (J3) and cut the long length to 42”. I cut a 42” section OFF of the longer side of this hose. What I should have done (and what you should do) is measure 42” from the bend and cut off the excess so you have a 4”x42” section of hose. This mistake required me to go to the autoparts store to get a 3/4x3/4” hose fitting and a pair of screw clamps because my hose was too short. Because I was running around I didn’t get any photos of this particular step. After you trim the long side down to 42”, measure 1” beyond the bend on the short side and cut there. You’ll have about 2” of hose to cut off from the short side.

When you’re done with this step, you will have an approximately 2”x42” section of hose.

Step 18I – Take the hose you trimmed in the previous step and install it onto the passenger side fitting on the top of the S/C housing. Secure it with a spring clamp.

Step 18J – Route this hose across the firewall, in front of the brake booster, and under the intercooler coolant reservoir. When you run out, continue with the 42” section of hose. Then, run it next to the hose that goes to the intercooler pump by going under the fuse box, and through the bulkhead behind the headlight. Once you have this hose run, connect the 2 sections with the 3/4x3/4” fitting and secure with 2 spring clamps. Finally, connect the end of thsi hose to the top nipple on the LTR and secure it with a spring clamp.









Step 18K – Take the 4x36” coolant hose and trim the short end 1” past the bend like you did with the hose from the previous step. Install a spring clamp onto the short end and install a screw clamp onto the long end. You don’t need to wait to install these clamps.

Step 18L, 18M – Attach the short end of the hose from the previous step to the driver’s side fitting on top of the S/C housing and secure with the spring clamp. Then, run this hose over to the intercooler coolant reservoir inlet. It is at the top and faces towards the rear of the truck.



Step 18N – Use the small Adel clamp and an M6x12mm bolt to secure the two coolant hoses to the S/C housing.



Installation of the Intercooler Pump Relay Harness, Step 19

You’re on the home stretch! This is the last actual installation part. The rest of it is mostly getting everything back together and goes pretty quick.

Take out the intercooler relay harness A11 and untangle it.

Step 19A – Mount the intercooler relay harness to the rear of the radiator support using the nut and bolt H7 and H8. The harness goes on the driver’s side support, facing towards the cab. Then, install the supplied 15A fuse (H10) into the fuse holder and mount that near the intercooler pump relay. The fuse holder goes right behind a small silver colored electrical box with cooling fins on it. The fuse holder is secured with the factory bolt that holds the electrical box.





Step 19B – Go to the driver’s side fender, next to the fuse box. There is a 10mm bolt holding a ground wire to the fender. Remove this bolt and install the ground wire from the intercooler relay harness onto the bolt and replace the bolt and factory ground wire. The ground wire is a single wire with a ring terminal at the end. There is another red wire with a ring terminal that is wrapped together in a loom with a longer yellow wire – do not connect this ring terminal to the ground – it is the power wire.

Step 19C, 19D – Route the long two-wire connector through the radiator support bulkhead (next to where you mounted the relay). The connector is plugs into the intercooler pump. You will have a lot of extra wiring here. Use some of the supplied zip ties to bundle this up and secure it.



Step 19E – Route the wire harness that has the yellow wire and the red wire w/ ring terminal to the inside of the fuse panel. Note; the instructions specify routing this harness along the fender, across the front of the fuse box, and then into the fuse box. I found that there was not enough slack to do this. Instead, I ran the harness straight back from the relay along the inboard side of the battery and directly up into the fuse box through the opening on the inboard side.



Step 19F, 19G – Remove the nut from the positive connection in the fuse box and install the red wire with the ring terminal onto the post, then replace the nut.



Step 19H, 19I, 19J, 19K – Use a pair of pliers or the fuse puller tool on the underside of the fuse box cover. Remove the 10-amp fuse (red) for EFI No. 2. Route the yellow wire under the large wiring harness on the inboard side of the fuse box, over to the 10-amp EFI No. 2 fuse. Place the tap connector on the new 10-amp mini fuse and install the fuse so that the tap is towards the rear of the vehicle. Snip a section out of the plastic divider for the yellow wire to pass through and replace the fuse box cover.





I recommend that you delay Step 20, Reinstallation of the Radiator Grill, until the very end. You will be able to lean further into the engine bay without it in place and you will be able to check the LTR and intercooler pump hose connections for leaks when you start up the truck.
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:59 PM   #5
SManZ [OP] SManZ is offline
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Installation of the Vacuum Hoses, Step 21

Step 21A – I noticed a discrepancy in the instructions here. The TRD instructions specify different methods for vehicles with and without VSC (Vehicle Stability Control). My vehicle has VSC, however I did not see the vacuum cap mentioned in the VSC-equipped step. Instead, I followed the step for non-VSC equipped vehicles, which is to connect the hose from the brake booster to the forward nipple on the driver’s side of the S/C housing. The brake booster is the large black drum located on the driver’s side of the firewall.




In this photo of the factory surge tank, the vacuum hose to the brake booster is marked ‘4B’

Step 21B, 21C – Remove the long hose from the factory surge tank. This is the EVAP hose. Connect the straighter end of the EVAP hose to the VSV (Vacuum Switching Valve) that was installed on the oil filler neck. The hose with the U-bend at the end attaches to the rearward nipple on the driver’s side of the S/C housing.



Step 21D – Remove the short section of hose from the end of the EVAP canister. Use the stock clamps to attach the 5/16” section of hose to the EVAP canister, then run this hose to the other nipple on the VSV. It is the nipple that is on the same side as the electrical connector for the VSV.




In this photo of the factory surge tank, the EVAP canister is marked ‘4A’

Step 21E – Connect the vent hose that was disconnected in Step 4B and secure it to the nipple on the bottom rear of the S/C housing using the factory spring clamp.


In this photo of the factory surge tank, the vent hose is marked ‘4B’

Installation of the Air Cleaner Assy, Step 22

I had the TRD intake so this was simply reinstalling it. In both the stock intake and TRD intake, check that the following are connected;
-Small vacuum hose
-Large vacuum hose
-MAF sensor plug
-Throttle body plug

If you have the stock intake, open the air box and install the supplied TRD air filter element if desired. Then reinstall the stock intake and follow the TRD instructions.

Protection of Clutch Hydraulic Line, Step 23

Step 23A – This step applies only if you have a manual transmission. Get the section of ½” wire loom and slip it over the clutch hydraulic line where it rubs against the rear of the S/C housing.



Preparation for Vehicle Start-Up, Step 24

Step 24A, 24B, 24C, 24D – Use the old coolant (if you saved it) or new coolant and pour it into the radiator until it is completely full. Squeeze the upper and lower coolant hoses to purge some air from the system and add coolant until the radiator is full. Reinstall the radiator cap and then pour coolant into the coolant reservoir. You can over-fill the reservoir slightly (1” above the FULL line). This extra coolant will be drawn into the system when you run the truck.

Step 24E, 24F, 24G – Fill the intercooler reservoir with coolant. The intercooler reservoir is the black container you installed on the driver’s side fender, rear of the fuse box. This will take a good bit of coolant to fill since the coolant will flow down the hose to the intercooler pump. Reinstall and connect the battery if you disconnected it. Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start the truck. This will run the intercooler pump. Add coolant to the reservoir while the pump is running. Let it run for a few minutes and keep filling the reservoir as it gets low. The pump will purge air from the system. Once it is full, turn off the truck and replace the cap.

Step 24H, 24I – Optional – Install the belt routing label and emissions label under the hood. Install the Premium Fuel Required decals by the gas cap and/or on the dash.









Step 24J – If you are doing the install at home there is no way to prime the fuel system with the TIS techstream tool. I started the truck without priming and everything was fine. Just be aware that the truck might be hard to start or die after starting until the air is purged from the fuel lines.

Additional steps for home installation;
-Start the truck and let it run for just a minute. Shut it off and then check the radiator coolant level. Add as necessary to fill to the top. The water pump will purge air from the block. Repeat this 2-3 times.

-Start the truck and let it reach normal operating temperature. Check for the following;
-Coolant leaks around the thermostat housing, especially around the spacer that was installed.
-Coolant leaks at all hose fittings (intercooler pump, LTR, S/C housing cover, intercooler coolant reservoir, 3/4x3/4” hose fitting, etc.
-Check for fuel leaks or smells from around the fuel line and injectors. You will not be able to see this area because the S/C housing covers it.
-Do not open the radiator cap when hot. Allow it to cool completely before checking the coolant level again.
-If you have not done so already, reinstall the radiator grill.

ECU Reflash, Step 25

The truck will not run properly until the ECU is reflashed. Do not skip this step.

You can drive the truck to the dealer to have this done but take care to use only low throttle inputs and engine speeds. If you are heavy on the gas pedal or run at high-RPMs the S/C will develop boost, which your truck is not yet programmed to handle.

Bring the TRD instructions to the dealer. It is helpful to highlight your model, year, and S/C Calibration ID on page 43 of the TRD instructions.

Tell your service advisor that you would like to speak with the tech that will be working on your truck. Show the technician the S/C calibration ID from the TRD instructions and ask for a printout of the ECU reprogramming results.

Once the reflash is done, double check the printout for a successful reflash with the S/C Calibration ID for your truck.

You’re done! When you get back from the dealer, check the intercooler coolant reservoir and the radiator and coolant reservoir levels again.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions on improving this How-To! Also, if there are any additional photos that you would like me to take and post, let me know.

-Thanks & good luck!
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:06 PM   #6
747 747 is offline
function > form
747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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+1 for 5 posts-worth of typing.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:23 PM   #7
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Killbuzzjrad will become famous soon enoughKillbuzzjrad will become famous soon enough
 
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The best write up I have ever seen! Great Job! STICKY!!!!
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:36 PM   #8
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2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of2009Silver has much to be proud of
 
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Thumbs up

Best. Thread. Ever.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:49 PM   #11
747 747 is offline
function > form
747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed747 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SManZ View Post
Thanks guys!
Thank you...I second the "sticky" motion.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:50 PM   #13
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kbx10 is on a distinguished road
 
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You lost me shortly after you started, but that was awesome!

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Old 07-09-2010, 09:51 PM   #14
Science!
AndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shedAndrewFalk is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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The write up for this must have taken a few hours alone! Nice job.
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:51 AM   #15
SManZ [OP] SManZ is offline
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SManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shedSManZ is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewFalk View Post
The write up for this must have taken a few hours alone! Nice job.
Lol ya...about 5 or 6hrs to do the write up across a few days and MS Paint these photos

When I was done my g/f asked if I had returned from my nerdcation lol. She just doesn't get it
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:21 AM   #16
Its all mod on the inside
hoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud ofhoeflich has much to be proud of
 
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Bravo zulu man, you had me at hello!
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:05 AM   #17
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j0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shedj0sh is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Nice work! both the install and the how-to
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:34 AM   #18
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RX2RIDE is a jewel in the roughRX2RIDE is a jewel in the roughRX2RIDE is a jewel in the rough
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Nice... I have a couple of questions.

1. I assume the blue thing below your oil filer is a magnet??? If so how do you like it?

2. Before you added the SC, how did you like your TRD air intake?

3. How do you like the SC? I have a 09 TRD OR 6 speed think this may just be the next project.
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Old 07-10-2010, 08:02 AM   #19
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Jigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shedJigzor is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Sticky Vote.

Really nice job!
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