This guide is intended to supplement, not replace, the TRD installation instructions included with the fit kit. This guide does not contain all the information you need for a successful install and so should not be used exclusively as a step-by-step for installation. These are going to be very detailed instructions so some of you who have done your fair share of wrenching might start rolling your eyes – that’s okay – I wanted to give someone that was hesitant to do the install on their own as much guidance as possible and give them the best shot at saving the several hundred $$$. This is really not that hard!
This installation was done on a 2010 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Sport. Installation on other years may differ slightly. The installation was done with parts PTR29-35090 (supercharger) and PTR29-35100 (fit kit).
The S/C installation takes a lot of time and requires attention to detail. None of the installation is overly difficult and I did it solo in 18 hours, including 3 meals, a short nap, a trip to the auto parts store, and all these photos and notes, but not including the crank pulley bolt removal, which I did prior to the install.
IMO, you should have the knowledge, tools, and skills to do oil/coolant change, air filter change/intake installation, spark plug replacement, engine accessory drive belt replacement, and minor electrical work. You should set aside 2 days for this project and have someone available to help if needed. If your truck is your only vehicle, definitely line up a ride in case you need to make a emergency trip to the autoparts store.
My truck had the All-Pro bumper installed with the light hoop. This gave me a place to sit while working on the upper part of the motor. This was especially helpful because my truck is lifted 3”. If you can’t easily access the center of the firewall, you should get or build something that will allow you to work there, or plan on sitting on the upper radiator brace with your feet on the valve covers.
Ok…with all that out of the way, lets get started! Remember, use this guide in addition to the TRD instructions! I’ll include the steps that each set of photos correspond to in the TRD instructions. These may not correspond with fit kits other than PTR29-35100
Here is a link to the TRD S/C Installation Instructions for PTR29-35091, which is the Tacoma fit kit prior to the current one, PTR29-35100. The installation instructions appear to be identical, with the exception of the last step, the ECU reflash. PTR29-35091 covered up to the ’09 MY. The current kit, PTR29-35100 covers all Tacomas, ’05-’10. If someone finds a link to the install instructions for PTR29-35100 please send it to me so I can update this link.
In photos, I’ve marked parts with the steps in the instructions that they correspond to. Arrows point towards the front of the truck.
The very first thing you need to do is verify that ALL your parts are included in the installation kit. The first 3 pages of the TRD instructions are all parts inventory. Take the time to go through this. You do not want to be midway through the install and realize that you are missing a critical part. Keep the parts in the bags for now and just verify that they are all there.
Prior to the installation, you should line up a dealer that will do the ECU reflash which is required at the very end of the job. Also, you should have run at least a full tank of premium fuel (91 octane or higher) through the truck since the supercharger requires premium fuel.
In addition to a basic ½ and 3/8” drive metric socket set, wrench set, allen key set, and other common tools, you’ll need the following;
-Minimum 2 gallons of Toyota Super Long Life Coolant, the pink stuff. It’s about $20/gal.
-Anti seize compound for spark plugs
-Sharp knife or hose cutter
-Vise grips and/or channel lock pliers
-Hacksaw or preferably a Dremel with cutter wheels.
-Clean container for coolant (if you want to reuse your coolant)
Also, I did Step 8G and 8H (crankshaft pulley bolt) in advance of the actual supercharger installation. This is the hardest part of the installation. I found an easier way to do it that I was more comfortable with than other recommended methods. Here is a link to the How-To;
Set up your workspace and get organized. If you get a mess of tools everywhere, clean them up and put them back where they belong. So much time can be wasted hunting for tools on large jobs. Protect your fenders – you’ll be spending a lot of time leaning over them. Pants w/ no metal studs and no belts also helps keep from scratching. Also, remove the front grille first by removing two 10mm screws and 2 black plastic pop rivets. Remove your engine skid plate if you have one.
Air cleaner removal, Step 2
Remove the two 10mm nuts and remove the engine cover, step 2A.
If you have a stock intake, follow steps 2B through 2D. If you have a TRD or similar intake do the following;
-Loosen the 4 hose clamps at the red couplings that hold the intake tube to the air box and throttle body, marked with yellow ticks.
-Disconnect the MAF sensor plug
-Disconnect the small vacuum hose from the intake tube
-Disconnect the large vacuum hose from the intake tube
-Pull the red coupling on the throttle body side over the intake tube to free this end. Then pull the intake tube and coupling off the airbox side and set it aside. It is not necessary to remove the airbox.
Throttle Body Removal, Step 3
Disconnect the throttle body connector. It is by my thumb. Remove the four 10mm bolts to free the throttle body. Do not disconnect the two coolant hoses at the bottom of the throttle body.
Air Intake Surge Tank Removal, Step 4
Steps 4A thru 4C – Disconnect the vacuum hoses, sensor connectors, and harnesses as shown in the pics
Step 4C calls for the removal of 4 wire harness clamps. There is a dual clamp on a metal bracket which I could not get loose. Instead, I removed the bracket from the surge tank by removing one 10mm bolt. The others are snap in types. Use needle nose pliers to press in the sides and lift out. In areas where you can’t get pliers in there, use a screwdriver to press and lift out one side at a time.
Step 4D – Remove the 3 bolts that secure the surge tank to the brackets. Remove and discard the bracket at the front of the motor. The directions call for the removal of the brackets on the right side of the motor. I did not do this.
Step 4E – You will need an 8mm allen wrench or socket to remove the 4 center bolts that hold the surge tank down. The two outside bolts are 12mm. After you get these off, lift the surge tank carefully off the motor. If you forgot to disconnect something in the previous steps, you will not be able to get the surge tank off.
STEP 4F, DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP
Use tape to cover the intake ports. You’re going to be doing a lot of work here over the next several steps and you do not want to drop something in here.
Step 4G - Remove the 2 studs from the intake manifold. The TRD instructions call for a E5 external torx socket. This may be a typo since an E5 wouldn’t fit and I used an E7. These studs are not reused so you can grip the torx head with vise grips and get it off.
Fuel Injector Replacement, Step 5
Step 5A – It took me a little while to figure this out. Slide the covers off the fuel connectors, then press in the buttons on the connector and pull it off the fuel tube. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to do this and you do not need to use any tools. Some gasoline will come out when you do this. Do not bend or twist the fuel line too much.
Step 5B – Disconnect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors. Its pretty much impossible to mix these up so don’t worry about reconnecting injector 5 to cylinder 6 and so forth. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the fuel line and injectors to the intake manifold. Save these bolts. Gently lift the u-shaped fuel line and all 6 injectors as a unit off the intake manifold and set it down so you can work on it.
Step 5C – Pull the 6 injectors out of the delivery pipe. Gently twist and pull the injectors out. Gas will come out when you do this. Pay careful attention to the two gaskets on the fuel injectors. Make sure that the smaller gasket does not get left behind in the delivery pipe fitting. 5 out of 6 injectors that I pulled out left the small gasket in the delivery pipe. In the below photo, the upper injector is assembled. The lower photo shows the two gaskets, pulled off the lower injector.
Step 5D – Lubricate the gaskets on the new high flow injectors with gasoline and install them into the fuel delivery pipe by turning it and pressing it in. Orient the connectors so they face outward.
Step 5E – Lubricate the insulators on all 6 injectors and then place all 6 new injectors and the fuel delivery pipe as a unit into the intake manifold. Double check and make sure all 6 injector connectors face towards the sides of the truck, not the center of the motor. Install the 6 bolts that hold the injectors in place and tighten to 11lb.ft. Reconnect all 6 electrical connectors.
Step 5F – Reconnect all 6 connectors to the fuel injectors.
Step 5G, reconnect the fuel pipe connectors. The grey cover is on the left, the black on the right. It is not possible to mix these two up.
Double check your work. Messing up here will require removal of the supercharger, drive belt, vacuum hoses, etc etc to fix it.
Step 5H – Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the wire loom off the stud on the left valve cover.