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Help with fuse/new install question

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Old 08-10-2010, 07:07 PM   #1
the_tick [OP] the_tick is offline
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Help with fuse/new install question

I'm about to install a power lock kit in my '07 2wd. I've bought a kit and gone over all the wiring in my head, then on paper, then on a workbench taping ends together with labels and tags. Now, I pulled out the tray on the left side of the steering wheel, the one right in front of the fuse box, to look at the fuse box chart on the back. And that's when I started scratching my head. Yes, I'm a little hesitant about electronics! I think I have everything figured out but would greatly appreciate if someone could verify my head is not screwed on backwards and upside down because I don't want to create a fireworks show, which my neighbors might enjoy, but I just don't enjoy entertaining the neighbors.

Here it goes:

Some wires get connected to some other wires.... and all of these wires are the anti social type. They don't get connected to any wire that is already part of my Taco. Not to mention that the kit was nice enough to just tell me to connect wires that are the same color, so I'll do that and get to the real questions.

OK, two wires have me worried.

1. I have one wire that needs to be connected to a "Constant Power Source (always has 12 volts)." My intention is to use a 20amp fuse that has a built in pig tail and solder that pig tail to the wire that requires all of that "Constant Power Source" attention. Then I'm going to push that fuse into the slot that is labeled "DR LCK 20A." This makes sense to me. I don't have any existing power door locks, but I do think it was nice of those Toyota people to include a slot in that fuse box knowing I might one day want to get fancy and push a button for convenience and all.

Can I use this fuse slot for this?

If anyone sees a problem using this slot please stop me now. It's not being used..... uh, right??? Otherwise I'll get to the other wire, which I am much more fuzzy about.

2. The second wire has to be connected to "Ignition Power Source (12 volts with key on)." Now I could use another 20A pigtail fuse and plug into one of the slots labeled "IG1 10A" or "IG1 NO.2 10A." And here lies the problem. Can I plug a 20A fuse into a slot labeled 10A? Does "IG" mean Ignition? And how do I know if the power is "constant" or "not constant?" Now not knowing the answer to a single one of those questions I got the idea that maybe I could plug that 20A pigtail fuse into another slot that I know I don't use that is labeled "P RR P/W 20A." I think that means "Power Rear Right Power Window." And if it does I'd be OK, especially since I don't have any rear doors at all.
Can I use this fuse slots for this?

And just in case anyone is wondering the kit I'm using is a "Valet 712T" which came with an "MES Cable Style Central Door Locking Kit." Something Swiss, I think. I bought it from A1Electric.com.

Well, there's my predicament. And if anyone can help me avoid entertaining the neighbors I would surely be thankful.

Mike
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:29 PM   #2
the_tick [OP] the_tick is offline
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bump
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Old 08-21-2010, 10:08 PM   #3
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If you are talking about those add-a-fuses with the wire coming out of them, you do realize that there are two fuse slots in one of those? They are designed so you can pull out one existing fuse, install the add-a-fuse, put the original fuse into the add-a-fuse housing, then plug in an additional fuse.

I see no reason why you can't use the existing slot in your fuse block and use the add-a-fuse with two fuses in it to power your aftermarket kit. As long as there is wiring hooked to the back of it already.

As far as the key on wire, you can use an add a fuse on the existing cigarette lighter fuse for that. There may be other options also for the key on wire.

Edit: I would think that the key on wire is just to activate the locks when you start the truck? Are you sure it needs to be a 20A fuse. You can't add a 20A fuse to a 10A circuit. If you seriously need that much power, you might want to run a new wire straight from the battery and use a relay inline and switched by the add-a-fuse instead.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:16 AM   #4
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Tick, I too am wondering about the ignition sense for a radio I'm installing. I think Joes idea would work for the cigarette lighter, but I don't know why we couldn't just use one of the ENG fuse spots or the ACC spot, which seems like it is mean to be used for these applications.

Joes right though, don't put a 20A fuse in a 10A hole. The wires are what is limited by the current many times and they may only be able to handle 20A, in which case the weakest part of the wire may become a fuse/fire starter.

I hope someone else chimes in about the ACC or ENG spots.
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:17 PM   #5
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Wish I could help out. I'm looking to do what your doing as well. Have been doing alot of reading about the wiring. Good luck with your install.
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:18 AM   #6
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If your just doing electric locks man there is NO WAY IN HELL it requires 20 Amps. Change the fuse to 2 amps. Locks take no power at all. If you put it on ACC exactly how is that going to work with the key not there? You want to grab a spot that has constant power, meaning 12 volts to ground when the key is not in the ignition. Fuse it 2 amps. It's plenty.

Did you buy the actual Toyota parts for the doors? The motor part is actually fused at 20 amps but it's not what you think. It's much more complicated than that. If you have the Toyota electric lock kit then you just need the prints. It hooks up into the body ECU
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Old 09-19-2010, 10:24 PM   #7
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Any update on the install?
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