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Old 03-26-2011, 03:01 PM   #21
chris4x4 [OP] chris4x4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Just replaced my stock Bilsteins with 5100's
My stock Bilsteins had the 5 mm wrench at the top so I've got a quick question about removing them, or how they were supposed to be removed... I got to the top of the stud, could no longer keep the 5 mm wrench on top of the stud but still had threads to undo on the nut. I ended up just using a hack saw and cutting the stud but there's got to be a better way to get the shocks off... I did try using channel locks on the shock itself but couldn't get enough grip. Just curious how you're supposed to get them off without destroying the shock.
Sometimes you have to cut the OEm shock.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Sometimes you have to cut the OEm shock.
Good to know... I didn't feel too bad cutting them up since they were junk anyways but wanted to know if I was doing something wrong.

Nice write-up BTW, very simple process!
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:10 PM   #23
chris4x4 [OP] chris4x4 is offline
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Good to know... I didn't feel too bad cutting them up since they were junk anyways but wanted to know if I was doing something wrong.

Nice write-up BTW, very simple process!
Thanks Mike!
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:44 AM   #24
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[QUOTE=chris4x4;2117917]When installing the rear shocks on a second gen, its a pretty easy procedure. No jacking of the truck, removal of the tires, etc. [QUOTE]

So, you dont need to remove the tires???
Or jack up the truck for any reason?


Will this write-up apply to me installing the newest rear Icon 2.5 shocks on my '08 Sport?
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:34 AM   #25
chris4x4 [OP] chris4x4 is offline
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
chris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shedchris4x4 is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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[QUOTE=Blkturbo!;3082754][QUOTE=chris4x4;2117917]When installing the rear shocks on a second gen, its a pretty easy procedure. No jacking of the truck, removal of the tires, etc.
Quote:

So, you dont need to remove the tires???
Or jack up the truck for any reason?


Will this write-up apply to me installing the newest rear Icon 2.5 shocks on my '08 Sport?

I made a write up for installing the 2.5" Icons.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:20 AM   #26
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Smile

I've never change the shocks on my Taco. but have to other vehicles I've own and another good advice I can give you is. If the nut of the new shock is not a locknut (has a plastic washer inside) or doen not come with a separate locking device (Looks like a nut but is very thin) you can use the old nut from the old shocks and put it on top of the new this will prevent the nut from loosen with the vibration.
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:42 AM   #27
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Too bad I didn't see this thread before I changed mine. However, not removing the wheels would have been a mess for me. Tips: use narrow vice grips to hold the old shaft.



...and blue loctite. The oem shocks have a white material to hold the bolts. It's there for a reason.

Then it is a piece of cake.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:05 AM   #29
chris4x4 [OP] chris4x4 is offline
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rellik01 View Post
Seems so easy a cavemen can do it.
Kinda what I have told folk. The hardest part is compressing the new shocks to get them on. That varies depending on internal pressure.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:26 PM   #30
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Can't thank you enough for the install how-to. I bought the Bilstein/RCD 5100 set of 4 from Down South Motorsports and just finished putting in the rears.

The challenge isn't just compressing the shock to get into place but the rubber edge grommets on the bottom of the shocks make it tough as hell to get it centered to get the bolt back through. The old shocks came off fine. Amazed at how much space is under that truck. I'm 6'2" 205 and I can even roll over while underneath.

I already notice a smoother ride.

I would like to know how it is even possible to torque the top end to 15 ft lbs when it requires a 5mm hex wrench and a 17mm open wrench just to tighten it down? I just did it to where it seems tight without forcing it much. I'll add the old lock nuts over top tomorrow if they fit as suggested by someone else. The bottom nuts torqued fine. 74 ft lbs is quite a bit of work when under there.

Love this forum! I bought a 2006 with 100K miles, drove well when I got it, drives even better every time I do more of the DIY maintenance tasks. Tomorrow is all about gear oil change out for read LSD, front diff and transfer case.

Thanks TW!
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Kinda what I have told folk. The hardest part is compressing the new shocks to get them on. That varies depending on internal pressure.

Maybe jacking the truck up on stands and then putting the hydrolic jack under the axle and using for adjustment will make it so you don't have to compress the shocks? I think that is how I did an old nissan once, been a while so my memory isn't great.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07SpeedwaySport View Post
Maybe jacking the truck up on stands and then putting the hydrolic jack under the axle and using for adjustment will make it so you don't have to compress the shocks? I think that is how I did an old nissan once, been a while so my memory isn't great.
Did the job today, I take back what i said above, thats much more work than necessary. I just jacked up the body and the shocks slid right into place. No pressure needed, but I did use a flat head screw driver in the bracket and against bottom of the shock the as leverage to adjust enough to line it up and get the screw through the hole.

Thanks for the write up.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:11 PM   #33
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Hey thanks for the info, great post!. Three things I ran into... A five mm open wrench was hard to find so I used a small cresent wrench which worked great. (And an Alan wrench on the 5100's). Getting the bottom of the shock in the right place was a tight squeeze, I didn't have grease so I used kitchen butter.. went right into place! The last thing was the bushing and washer set up. A chart from the manufacture showed from bottom to top, black washer faced up, bushing, skinny silver washer facing down, that goes under the bracket. And on top is the other bushing and the last silver washer facing down. I'll try and upload the diagram. Hope this helps a little.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:24 PM   #34
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Just put on my Icon Resi's, 2005 Tacoma 4x4 DCSB. Super impressed with build quality. Thinking I will need the Icon AAL, since the truck only has the 3 leaf springs, which are crap.
The stem at the top of the OE shock snapped off due to rust as soon as I attempted the left side. That added an hour to the removal...
Still have my front Icon coilovers to put on. The whole setup is overkill for my needs, but I will try to make some dirt runs asap. Thanks for the write-ups ,very helpful.
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:09 PM   #35
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Glad I found the thread. I have just one question. How do you estimate 15 ft/lb? I stopped at 6 threads exposed over the nut for now, should I compress the rubber parts more, or let them out some?
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:21 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoyota View Post
Glad I found the thread. I have just one question. How do you estimate 15 ft/lb? I stopped at 6 threads exposed over the nut for now, should I compress the rubber parts more, or let them out some?
Use a torque wrench,if you dont have one or know some one who does,a lot of Kragen or other auto parts stores will let you borrow one for a day with a deposite.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:25 PM   #37
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Sub'd for later - Thanks, great info
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTB530 View Post
Use a torque wrench,if you dont have one or know some one who does,a lot of Kragen or other auto parts stores will let you borrow one for a day with a deposite.
I have 2 torque wrenches, but due to the 5mm allen key in the top+said bolt, I cant use either
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:40 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacoyota View Post
I have 2 torque wrenches, but due to the 5mm allen key in the top+said bolt, I cant use either
I havent been under my truck to check if there is room ,but i have a set of hex/allen tools that fit the ratchet on the torque wrench,i hope i have room to use it because i am going to change my shocks soon.
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:07 PM   #40
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It's not that allens wont fit the wrench, it's they way you use the allen key to hold the shaft from turning to allow the open end wrench to tighten the bolt. I'm gonna train brain to sorta "feel" 15 ft/lb and do a close enough thing.
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