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Old 11-04-2008, 04:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perniva1978 View Post
I used to do my own oil changes since I was in high school (1994) until I got to own my 2004 Tacoma V6. I did 1 oil change and then I gave up. It's too uncomfortable. Looks like your pictures are for a 4-cylinder Tacoma and it might be easier than changing the oil on a V6.
Welcome to Tacoma WOrld! The pics are from the 1GR-FE V6.
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Old 11-11-2008, 09:22 PM   #22
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Maintenance light

How do you turn out that Maintenance light ??
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Old 11-12-2008, 05:03 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWALLEN48 View Post
How do you turn out that Maintenance light ??
Hal in Seattle
From elsewhere on TW.com...

To reset you Maintenance Required light:
1. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position with the odometer reading shown.

2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter reset knob.

Hold down the knob for at least 5 second. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.


NOTE: You will see a series of dashes that count down while the system resets itself

If the system fails to reset, the light will continue to flash!

You must re-perform the procedure
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:50 PM   #24
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Can we get some pics of a first gen 4 cyl? I've never done this before and I don't want to f*** it up.
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pidro_el_pirata View Post
Can we get some pics of a first gen 4 cyl? I've never done this before and I don't want to f*** it up.
I dont have my 2000 2.7 anymore, but the filter is near the exhaust manafold. Drain the oil, then remove the filter. Easy as pie.
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
I dont have my 2000 2.7 anymore, but the filter is near the exhaust manafold. Drain the oil, then remove the filter. Easy as pie.

Sounds good, I'll give it a go. Thanks!
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pidro_el_pirata View Post
Sounds good, I'll give it a go. Thanks!
OOOOO!!!!!
You have the 2.4. I cant remember where the oil filter is on it. I think its in the same place, but Im not sure.
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
OOOOO!!!!!
You have the 2.4. I cant remember where the oil filter is on it. I think its in the same place, but Im not sure.
Right, yea I didn't really read what you wrote lol but I'm sure it'll be obvious. And if not.. I don't need the oil changed RIGHT away lol
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:05 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pidro_el_pirata View Post
Right, yea I didn't really read what you wrote lol but I'm sure it'll be obvious. And if not.. I don't need the oil changed RIGHT away lol
It WILL be obvious, I just cant remember the exact location. Get some rags handy, as oil will seep out when the filter is removed.
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Old 12-11-2008, 06:01 PM   #30
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no need for the 5/16'' tube. just punch a hole on the top of the filter with a phillips head screw driver and hammer and this breaks the suction and the oil will drain out by itself. i do it all the time with very little mess.
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Old 12-11-2008, 06:15 PM   #31
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Drain plug

Thanks for the info. I did not know that there is a drain plug by the oil filter. I just changed my oil without know the plug and I make a mess when removing the oil filter.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:00 PM   #32
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Make sure you have all you need for your Oil Change:

Oil filter
Oil filter wrench
New oil plug gasket (available from dealer)
5.5 quarts of oil
5/16" 5ft long tube
14mm socket wrench
Oil pan
Oil funnel
Then, Fill with 5.5 Quarts of your favorite oil:




Quick question, Just purchased some Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, but for some reason grabed 10w30. Noticed you are using 5w30. Whats the difference between the two. Been a while since I had a brand new vehicle, and just always assumed 10w30.

Edumacate me..

Thanks...
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:38 PM   #33
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Talking 5w50 -vs- 10w30

Although oils have come a long way and in general, modern premium brand oils are all very good, the wider viscosity range (5w30) is stretching the limits of the viscosity index improver additive further than the 10w30 is. In other words, the ability to maintain the 5w30 characteristics would likely breakdown before the 10w30 would. Note: I have 30 years of experience as a maintenance engineer in a chemical plant and am also a certified machinery lubrication analyst. (Doesn't mean a lot really....experience is the best teacher! )
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:00 PM   #34
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Makes sense...

Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2008, 04:56 AM   #35
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I've had a rubber fuel line hose as my drain for a few years now and it works great. I have it strapped down so it always stays on my truck. The end of the hose sticks out about 3" right past my skid plate. Once it finishes draining, I wipe the end of the hose and tuck it behind the skid plate. You'll never know its there.
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Old 12-12-2008, 07:19 AM   #36
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on the 2.7 the filter sits upside down so there's no filter drain, but you will get leakage so best to take a plastic bag and surround it to catch the drips as you unscrew the filter.
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:43 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeocky View Post
I've had a rubber fuel line hose as my drain for a few years now and it works great. I have it strapped down so it always stays on my truck. The end of the hose sticks out about 3" right past my skid plate. Once it finishes draining, I wipe the end of the hose and tuck it behind the skid plate. You'll never know its there.


Thanks for the great information. This a great forum for new tacoma owners.
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:46 AM   #38
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I'm another ignorant dyi that did not know about the drain port until I asked here. The list of necessities the initial post provides does not make mention of the new plug gasket that nobody ever takes care to replace anyway. If you did want a new gasket, where do you get those plastic ones? All of mine are the soft aluminium type. I guess an "O" ring would do in a pinch.

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Old 12-12-2008, 03:17 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott214 View Post
no need for the 5/16'' tube. just punch a hole on the top of the filter with a phillips head screw driver and hammer and this breaks the suction and the oil will drain out by itself. i do it all the time with very little mess.
Being as the mount that the filter sits in/ attaches to, is cast aluminum, and when hitting the filter with a hammer and screw driver is transfering some of that energy to the mount, I dont think that is a good idea. I dont think it could take many hits before it would start to crack.
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Old 12-14-2008, 06:33 PM   #40
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I'd one up your rep for that last comment but I already did on another one today, good point, brute force + cast aluminum(or steel for that matter) ='s more $$ and a bunch of FU#K sh*t words yelled in the garage, making your neighbors think you have Torrets
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