Ultimate Oil Change Thread

[Pyro-Rob]

Did my first oil change today. The 2nd Gen is so much easier to change than the 1st Gen. The filter is where you can get to it, remove it without draining into your arm pit, and you don't have to remove the bottom shroud to get to the oil plug.


I'm glad Toyota saw the shortcomings of the older design and cleaned it up!

Also, I noticed the filter I took off was a 90915-20004. I had a bunch of 90915-YZZD3's left over from my 2004 1st Gen. I would like to try to find a larger capacity filter/higher filtering capacity filter, than the stock one, since I drive 135 miles/day.

Anyone see a problem with the YZZD3? Any other filters?

Anyone see a problem using Mobile 1 15W-50 during the hot CO summers?

Thanks,

--->Rob

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by Pyro-Rob

Anyone see a problem using Mobile 1 15W-50 during the hot CO summers?

Thanks,

--->Rob

Stick with the 5w-30. The VVT-i is actuated via oil pressure, and useing a different weight may have adverse affects on how it works...

[Veccster]

Originally Posted by rdcowan

Although oils have come a long way and in general, modern premium brand oils are all very good, the wider viscosity range (5w30) is stretching the limits of the viscosity index improver additive further than the 10w30 is. In other words, the ability to maintain the 5w30 characteristics would likely breakdown before the 10w30 would. Note: I have 30 years of experience as a maintenance engineer in a chemical plant and am also a certified machinery lubrication analyst. (Doesn't mean a lot really....experience is the best teacher! )

Any verification to this? I'm not disputing it and, actually, it makes sense. You try to do more with one thing and eventually loose some quality on it's intended purpose.

I am about to dive into my first oil change with my 2nd gen. Not worried as I've changed my oil for my last 3 vehicles. My 1st gen oil filter was a PITA. The new location is perfect.

I'm planning on using M1 or Penzoil Plat (depending on price) 10w 30. I live in western PA and do see summer temperatures in the high 80's.

Originally Posted by chris4x4

Stick with the 5w-30. The VVT-i is actuated via oil pressure, and useing a different weight may have adverse affects on how it works...

[MassTaco]

Originally Posted by Veccster

Any verification to this? I'm not disputing it and, actually, it makes sense. You try to do more with one thing and eventually loose some quality on it's intended purpose.

I am about to dive into my first oil change with my 2nd gen. Not worried as I've changed my oil for my last 3 vehicles. My 1st gen oil filter was a PITA. The new location is perfect.

I'm planning on using M1 or Penzoil Plat (depending on price) 10w 30. I live in western PA and do see summer temperatures in the high 80's.

From what I've seen, on long OCI's a 10w-30 will be more shear stable than a 5w-30. This is likely due to to the 5w-30 having more VI improver in it than the 10w-30.

That being said, even as a 5w-30 shears to something more like a 5w-20 you'll likely see no significant increase in mechanical wear. If you are planning on running 10-15k OCI's in a warmer climate the 10w-30 will probably be a slightly better choice. I personally will run 0w-30 year round at 5k OCI's and sleep sound at night knowing that the oil won't have anywhere near enough use on it to shear in that time.

[Veccster]

Whats the recommended interval in the book? I have to stick with that to keep my lifetime powertrain warranty in tact.

I figured on changing every 5K miles because I drive mostly city. Guess I'll stick with the 5w-30 as recommended.

[MassTaco]

The book recommends 5k OCI with 5w-30. If you stick with this you cannot go wrong.

[Pyro-Rob]

OK, well, already changed oil. It will be about 45 days before I change again so I will track mileage, performance, etc. I was thinking of the 15W-50 oil because we regularly hit 100F in June here, and can be in the high 80's to high 90's for the whole summer.

Also, sorry for following up and answering my own post. It appears the 90915-20004 filter is made in Japan for factory engines, the 90915-YZZD3 is the same filter but made in Thailand for post-sale changes.

Has anyone used one of the larger filters, like those used on GM/Ford that hold a quart of oil? I'm thinking about the filtration capacity.

Thanks,

--->Rob

[JimmyIvine]

Once you change the oil in your truck, how many Kilometers after that should your nrxt oil change be done

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by Pyro-Rob

OK, well, already changed oil. It will be about 45 days before I change again so I will track mileage, performance, etc. I was thinking of the 15W-50 oil because we regularly hit 100F in June here, and can be in the high 80's to high 90's for the whole summer.

Also, sorry for following up and answering my own post. It appears the 90915-20004 filter is made in Japan for factory engines, the 90915-YZZD3 is the same filter but made in Thailand for post-sale changes.

Has anyone used one of the larger filters, like those used on GM/Ford that hold a quart of oil? I'm thinking about the filtration capacity.

Thanks,

--->Rob

The 5w-30 is fine for temps over 100*. Going to a heavier oil isnt a good idea.

Originally Posted by JimmyIvine

Once you change the oil in your truck, how many Kilometers after that should your nrxt oil change be done

5000 miles...not sure what that is in Kilometers..

[Veccster]

Just hooked up 10 quarts of Penz Plat full Synthetic and 2 mobil 1 filters for $50 at Advance Auto.

Diving into my first oil change and will be installing the Fumoto drain valve. I'm actually looking forward to it.


Shhhhh....don't tell the wife. She thinks its a big pain and appreciates my work

[edc]

Good tip. I would be doing it after 75,000 miles.my dealer gave me free oil changes for 3 years or 75,000 miles which ever comes first.

[ALch]

Hi guys, I've got a 2001 V6 Tacoma. I've been looking for a write-up on changing the engine oil and filter on this for a while. I've done it once before, and with the skid plate it was just a huge pain in the butt. I have read about the trick of turning the wheel all the way left and going through the wheel well to get to the filter, but that's about all I've heard about changing the oil on the first gen tacos. Could anyone direct me to a place that has a few photos on the fastest way to change the oil on this model?

[Veccster]

Originally Posted by ALch

Hi guys, I've got a 2001 V6 Tacoma. I've been looking for a write-up on changing the engine oil and filter on this for a while. I've done it once before, and with the skid plate it was just a huge pain in the butt. I have read about the trick of turning the wheel all the way left and going through the wheel well to get to the filter, but that's about all I've heard about changing the oil on the first gen tacos. Could anyone direct me to a place that has a few photos on the fastest way to change the oil on this model?

I don't have any suggestions for you but that is how I accessed the oil filter. It was a huge pain to get it back in and threaded up correctly (doing it blind).

I guess I could recommend the Fumoto drain valve. That will make your changes cleaner because you don't have to mess with a drain plug (just open the valve).

[ALch]

It's been a while since I last changed it. How do you guys deal with draining the oil without getting it all over the skid plate? As I recall it was all in sort of an awkward position that made it hard to get a funnel between the skid plate and the oil pan.

[Pyro-Rob]

Originally Posted by ALch

It's been a while since I last changed it. How do you guys deal with draining the oil without getting it all over the skid plate? As I recall it was all in sort of an awkward position that made it hard to get a funnel between the skid plate and the oil pan.

With the '09, the skid plate is cut out around the drain plug. Also, there is a filler tube sticking up from the valve cover, rather than just the cap.

As far as the oil filter is concerned, the filter is up front and on the top, with a small drain on the bottom of it. If you get oil on yourself changing the oil on this engine, you tried to

It sure beats the '04 where the filter drained down into your armpit the first time.

--->Rob

[ALch]

Originally Posted by Pyro-Rob

With the '09, the skid plate is cut out around the drain plug. Also, there is a filler tube sticking up from the valve cover, rather than just the cap.

As far as the oil filter is concerned, the filter is up front and on the top, with a small drain on the bottom of it. If you get oil on yourself changing the oil on this engine, you tried to

It sure beats the '04 where the filter drained down into your armpit the first time.

--->Rob

Haha, oil changes on the 05+ sure sounds a lot simpler! Someone needs to do a writeup on their technique for the 2000-2004 model years.

[Colton]

Yeah, I know, thread revival.

With your used oil, put it in a coffee can with sand, and stick your firewood axe in it to keep it in good condition. Just a FYI DIY I learned out of Field & Stream.

[carmellocafe]

Originally Posted by Keason1*

running a tube to the bottom of the filter holder is a good idea...I just coverd the thing with a plastic wal mart bag...free...easy...

The techs. at the dealership showed me that they take an empty plastic steering fluid bottle and stick it on the drain tube--It fits perfectly over the tube. The first oil change I had done there, they did this and forgot to remove it when I got the truck back. I left there and drove up interstate 5 for 115 miles! By the time I got to where I was going, that bottle had melted all over my engine. Idiots!

[Kysport]

Do you guys pour some new oil in the filter before you screw it on to the filter housing? It sort of pre-loads it until the oil pump builds pressure.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by Kysport

Do you guys pour some new oil in the filter before you screw it on to the filter housing?

I dont....It would just spill out.