Ultimate Oil Change Thread

98tacoma27 · 06-23-2009, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris4x4

I dont....It would just spill out.

Same here. I do wet the seal with the old oil though.

chris4x4 · 06-23-2009, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98tacoma27

Same here. I do wet the seal with the old oil though.

Yep!

...Oh...Wait....NOPE! I dip my finger in the oil cap from the new oil bottle, and use that.

hiphopopotamus · 06-24-2009, 05:52 AM

So how much oil should I put in? I have a '03 Limited V6... 3.4 I think. Help me out! Thanks!

98tacoma27 · 06-24-2009, 06:03 AM

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=80

hiphopopotamus · 06-24-2009, 06:54 AM

Awesome! Thanks.

Veccster · 06-24-2009, 10:53 AM

I drive mostly rural-city (a lot of back roads and stop signs). I don't put many miles on my truck but I use it everyday. I only drive 4 miles to work and back each day. Vehicle of choice for weekend errands too.
So what is the time frame for changing the oil?

It was first changed by the dealer at 4,500 miles on February 20th. It is now June 24th - so 4 months have passed and I am only at 7,500 miles (3K since last change).

Veccster · 06-26-2009, 07:05 AM

^

jandrews · 07-02-2009, 08:13 PM

Just followed this method today. Worked beautifully. No mess, done in about 20 minutes (would have been 15 if the goddam factory filter hadn't been screwed on by Thor). Nice tip on piping the filter drain to the catch pan.

Was starting to change drivetrain oils (diffs/t-case) and cut my finger up something good. Ran out of daylight after bandaging my wounds. Looks like the diffs and t-case tomorrow then.

reg boulette · 07-03-2009, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kysport

Do you guys pour some new oil in the filter before you screw it on to the filter housing? It sort of pre-loads it until the oil pump builds pressure.

All my previous vehicles had downward hanging filters so I always did this. Today, changed the oil on my 09 to synthetic after 1000 miles. Even though the filter is right side up, I said what the heck and gave it a try. (Big Thanks for the Drain Hole Hose Idea!) Filled the engine first, then put the remaining .2 of a liter into the filter and in one quick motion turned it and spun it on, then snugged up. Lost a couple of drops into the drainage cup, but not much. Have no basis for comparison yet, but I don't think the engine oil pressure light was on for more than a split second when I started it up.

Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.

jandrews · 07-03-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reg boulette

All my previous vehicles had downward hanging filters so I always did this. Today, changed the oil on my 09 to synthetic after 1000 miles. Even though the filter is right side up, I said what the heck and gave it a try. (Big Thanks for the Drain Hole Hose Idea!) Filled the engine first, then put the remaining .2 of a liter into the filter and in one quick motion turned it and spun it on, then snugged up. Lost a couple of drops into the drainage cup, but not much. Have no basis for comparison yet, but I don't think the engine oil pressure light was on for more than a split second when I started it up.

FWIW, I didn't preload the filter and had no rattling, oil pressure light, etc. when starting.

This was a pure cold change/start too, the truck had sat for 48 hours with no activity before I did the change.

Quote:

Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.

I noticed this too...the two of them looked different. Will be interested in hearing what you find out.

Hootbro · 07-03-2009, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reg boulette

..............

Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.

Back in the mid 1990's, I worked at the Saturn engine plant in Spring Hill, TN as a manufacturing maintenance contractor. Way it was explained to me for why new original oil filters were of heavier construction was due to the need of the assembly process.

A heavy gauge steel filter is needed on the assembly line because a special computer control and monitored pneumatic install tool is used to attached the filter. This tool would count the number of turns and torque applied. If certain parameters did not compute, the line would shut down until the offending install filter was addressed. Post vehicle delivery and consumer changing of the filter does not necessitate the need for a heavier gauge steel filter.

Also, the filters are installed dry on the base gasket and that is why taking off the OEM filter can be a pain.

reg boulette · 07-04-2009, 01:41 AM

^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.

Hootbro · 07-04-2009, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reg boulette

^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.

No problem. Having done contract worked at both the Saturn plant in Spring Hill TN and the Nissan plant in Smyrna TN on the assembly line equipment, opened my eyes to a lot of the manufacturing process.

In general, parts slated for first new production will be of the highest quality and engineering as they have to get through long warranty periods. Dealer sold or branded "repair parts" do not have to fit such a stringent requirement and may or may not come from the same supplier that supplied the factory when the vehicle was built new.

HBMurphy · 07-06-2009, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris4x4

I just did an oil change, and I reused the OEM gasket. Im going to see if a leak develops and report my findings. Im with you as I HATE oil leaks, or leaks of any kind.

Kinda funny how the other two cars I have, when I buy an oil filter it has a new copper gasket for the drain plug (regardless of the manufacturer of the filter).

Krazie Sj · 07-08-2009, 02:46 PM

I'm kinda jealous. The OEM filter for my GFs 2001 Grand Cherokee was only $5.89 and is made in the states. My OEM filter with gasket was $12.30 and made in Thailand or somewhere eastern.

jandrews · 07-08-2009, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krazie Sj

I'm kinda jealous. The OEM filter for my GFs 2001 Grand Cherokee was only $5.89 and is made in the states. My OEM filter with gasket was $12.30 and made in Thailand or somewhere eastern.

Really? I picked up a couple OEM filters for my Taco a couple weeks back and I think they ran me around $6 each....Denso...

chris4x4 · 07-08-2009, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandrews

Really? I picked up a couple OEM filters for my Taco a couple weeks back and I think they ran me around $6 each....Denso...

I think he lives in Canada.......a Spork cost like....$100.00 there.

jandrews · 07-08-2009, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris4x4

I think he lives in Canada.......a Spork cost like....$100.00 there.

Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?

(I'll pay for that when he finds this)

chris4x4 · 07-08-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandrews

Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?

(I'll pay for that when he finds this)

LMAO!! Yeah...Its something like that...But I didnt think they had syrup.

reg boulette · 07-09-2009, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jandrews

Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?
(I'll pay for that when he finds this)

Not sure what a 'spork' is....?

OEM filter shouldn't cost more than +- $7 at the dealer, even in Canada.

$100 Canadian is equal to a stack of beaver pelts to the height of the tip of your musket with butt resting on the floor.

06-24-2009, 10:53 AM	#146
Veccster eatin' bass turds Name: Eric Joined: Aug 2008, #8407 Location: Pittsburgh - The City of Champions Age: 30 Gender: Male Posts: 1,813 2009 DC V6 TRDsport 2009 Double Cab Automatic 4.0l V6 Skid plate, ss exhaust tip, tube steps, Access roll-up tonneau cover, Redline hood struts, 6 D-rings, seat MagLite, LED dome, fumoto oil drain, DTRL, fog light anytime, Kenwood/Clarion speakers, Pop-N-Lock 5300, LED bed lights and a few other things...	I drive mostly rural-city (a lot of back roads and stop signs). I don't put many miles on my truck but I use it everyday. I only drive 4 miles to work and back each day. Vehicle of choice for weekend errands too. So what is the time frame for changing the oil? It was first changed by the dealer at 4,500 miles on February 20th. It is now June 24th - so 4 months have passed and I am only at 7,500 miles (3K since last change). __________________ Lets go Steelers Lets go Pens

06-26-2009, 07:05 AM	#147
Veccster eatin' bass turds Name: Eric Joined: Aug 2008, #8407 Location: Pittsburgh - The City of Champions Age: 30 Gender: Male Posts: 1,813 2009 DC V6 TRDsport 2009 Double Cab Automatic 4.0l V6 Skid plate, ss exhaust tip, tube steps, Access roll-up tonneau cover, Redline hood struts, 6 D-rings, seat MagLite, LED dome, fumoto oil drain, DTRL, fog light anytime, Kenwood/Clarion speakers, Pop-N-Lock 5300, LED bed lights and a few other things...	^ __________________ Lets go Steelers Lets go Pens

07-02-2009, 08:13 PM	#148
jandrews Unexpectedly Levitating Joined: Jun 2009, #18122 Location: Salisbury, NC Age: 26 Gender: Guy Posts: 1,763 '09 FourDubDee 2009 Double Cab Automatic 4.0L Moved the doohickey on top of the whooziwhatzit.	Just followed this method today. Worked beautifully. No mess, done in about 20 minutes (would have been 15 if the goddam factory filter hadn't been screwed on by Thor). Nice tip on piping the filter drain to the catch pan. Was starting to change drivetrain oils (diffs/t-case) and cut my finger up something good. Ran out of daylight after bandaging my wounds. Looks like the diffs and t-case tomorrow then. __________________ Build: Miss Blue

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06-24-2009, 05:52 AM	#143
hiphopopotamus TigerTown to Chucktown, SC Joined: Dec 2008, #11669 Location: South Carolina Age: 23 Gender: Male Posts: 11 Stock 2004 Limited V6 2004 Double Cab Automatic	So how much oil should I put in? I have a '03 Limited V6... 3.4 I think. Help me out! Thanks!

06-24-2009, 06:54 AM	#145
hiphopopotamus TigerTown to Chucktown, SC Joined: Dec 2008, #11669 Location: South Carolina Age: 23 Gender: Male Posts: 11 Stock 2004 Limited V6 2004 Double Cab Automatic	Awesome! Thanks.

07-04-2009, 01:41 AM	#152
reg boulette Member Joined: Feb 2008, #4956 Posts: 70	^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.