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Old 06-23-2009, 05:34 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
I dont....It would just spill out.
Same here. I do wet the seal with the old oil though.
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I think it's going to be pastrami and swiss with coleslaw and russian dressing........On Rye.,....... With bacon.......... Good pastrami too, thick cut.........YES! Fries would be awesome.
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Old 06-23-2009, 06:04 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by 98tacoma27 View Post
Same here. I do wet the seal with the old oil though.
Yep! ...Oh...Wait....NOPE! I dip my finger in the oil cap from the new oil bottle, and use that.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:52 AM   #143
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So how much oil should I put in? I have a '03 Limited V6... 3.4 I think. Help me out! Thanks!
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:03 AM   #144
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http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=80
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I thought I had to go, but it turns out that it was just a really big fart.
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Originally Posted by martie View Post
I think it's going to be pastrami and swiss with coleslaw and russian dressing........On Rye.,....... With bacon.......... Good pastrami too, thick cut.........YES! Fries would be awesome.
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:54 AM   #145
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Awesome! Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:53 AM   #146
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I drive mostly rural-city (a lot of back roads and stop signs). I don't put many miles on my truck but I use it everyday. I only drive 4 miles to work and back each day. Vehicle of choice for weekend errands too.
So what is the time frame for changing the oil?

It was first changed by the dealer at 4,500 miles on February 20th. It is now June 24th - so 4 months have passed and I am only at 7,500 miles (3K since last change).
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Old 06-26-2009, 08:05 AM   #147
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:13 PM   #148
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Just followed this method today. Worked beautifully. No mess, done in about 20 minutes (would have been 15 if the goddam factory filter hadn't been screwed on by Thor). Nice tip on piping the filter drain to the catch pan.

Was starting to change drivetrain oils (diffs/t-case) and cut my finger up something good. Ran out of daylight after bandaging my wounds. Looks like the diffs and t-case tomorrow then.
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:24 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kysport View Post
Do you guys pour some new oil in the filter before you screw it on to the filter housing? It sort of pre-loads it until the oil pump builds pressure.
All my previous vehicles had downward hanging filters so I always did this. Today, changed the oil on my 09 to synthetic after 1000 miles. Even though the filter is right side up, I said what the heck and gave it a try. (Big Thanks for the Drain Hole Hose Idea!) Filled the engine first, then put the remaining .2 of a liter into the filter and in one quick motion turned it and spun it on, then snugged up. Lost a couple of drops into the drainage cup, but not much. Have no basis for comparison yet, but I don't think the engine oil pressure light was on for more than a split second when I started it up.

Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.
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Old 07-03-2009, 06:49 PM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg boulette View Post
All my previous vehicles had downward hanging filters so I always did this. Today, changed the oil on my 09 to synthetic after 1000 miles. Even though the filter is right side up, I said what the heck and gave it a try. (Big Thanks for the Drain Hole Hose Idea!) Filled the engine first, then put the remaining .2 of a liter into the filter and in one quick motion turned it and spun it on, then snugged up. Lost a couple of drops into the drainage cup, but not much. Have no basis for comparison yet, but I don't think the engine oil pressure light was on for more than a split second when I started it up.
FWIW, I didn't preload the filter and had no rattling, oil pressure light, etc. when starting.

This was a pure cold change/start too, the truck had sat for 48 hours with no activity before I did the change.

Quote:
Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.
I noticed this too...the two of them looked different. Will be interested in hearing what you find out.
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Old 07-03-2009, 07:51 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg boulette View Post
..............

Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.
Back in the mid 1990's, I worked at the Saturn engine plant in Spring Hill, TN as a manufacturing maintenance contractor. Way it was explained to me for why new original oil filters were of heavier construction was due to the need of the assembly process.

A heavy gauge steel filter is needed on the assembly line because a special computer control and monitored pneumatic install tool is used to attached the filter. This tool would count the number of turns and torque applied. If certain parameters did not compute, the line would shut down until the offending install filter was addressed. Post vehicle delivery and consumer changing of the filter does not necessitate the need for a heavier gauge steel filter.

Also, the filters are installed dry on the base gasket and that is why taking off the OEM filter can be a pain.
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:41 AM   #152
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^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.
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Old 07-04-2009, 05:50 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reg boulette View Post
^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.
No problem. Having done contract worked at both the Saturn plant in Spring Hill TN and the Nissan plant in Smyrna TN on the assembly line equipment, opened my eyes to a lot of the manufacturing process.

In general, parts slated for first new production will be of the highest quality and engineering as they have to get through long warranty periods. Dealer sold or branded "repair parts" do not have to fit such a stringent requirement and may or may not come from the same supplier that supplied the factory when the vehicle was built new.
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:29 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
I just did an oil change, and I reused the OEM gasket. Im going to see if a leak develops and report my findings. Im with you as I HATE oil leaks, or leaks of any kind.
Kinda funny how the other two cars I have, when I buy an oil filter it has a new copper gasket for the drain plug (regardless of the manufacturer of the filter).
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Old 07-08-2009, 03:46 PM   #155
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I'm kinda jealous. The OEM filter for my GFs 2001 Grand Cherokee was only $5.89 and is made in the states. My OEM filter with gasket was $12.30 and made in Thailand or somewhere eastern.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:04 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazie Sj View Post
I'm kinda jealous. The OEM filter for my GFs 2001 Grand Cherokee was only $5.89 and is made in the states. My OEM filter with gasket was $12.30 and made in Thailand or somewhere eastern.
Really? I picked up a couple OEM filters for my Taco a couple weeks back and I think they ran me around $6 each....Denso...
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:15 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Really? I picked up a couple OEM filters for my Taco a couple weeks back and I think they ran me around $6 each....Denso...
I think he lives in Canada.......a Spork cost like....$100.00 there.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:52 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
I think he lives in Canada.......a Spork cost like....$100.00 there.
Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?


(I'll pay for that when he finds this)
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:06 PM   #159
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Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?


(I'll pay for that when he finds this)
LMAO!! Yeah...Its something like that...But I didnt think they had syrup.
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:34 AM   #160
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Originally Posted by jandrews View Post
Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?
(I'll pay for that when he finds this)
Not sure what a 'spork' is....?

OEM filter shouldn't cost more than +- $7 at the dealer, even in Canada.

$100 Canadian is equal to a stack of beaver pelts to the height of the tip of your musket with butt resting on the floor.
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