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Old 01-03-2011, 04:19 PM   #1
EJS [OP] EJS is offline
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Lightbulb Another Electrical Wiring Question

I know these questions have been asked 100 times, and I used all that info to get a good idea, but I figured asking a few dumb questions beats finding a pile of ashes where my truck used to be.

I'm mounting a 1100 watt (2200 watt peak surge) inverter under the glove box and want to make sure all my wire and fuse sizes jive. I was planning on using 4 AWG, based on the peak surge of the inverter and approx wire run length (based on wire gauge charts). Is 4 AWG sufficient or should I go to 2 AWG or something else? (also when figuring the length of run to compare to the charts does that include from negative to ground, I assumed it was calculated from the positive length only?) Also, what size fuse would I need? For peak surge I would need something like a 185 amp fuse, is my math right? Do they make fuses in that size, where would I find one, and will it work with size wire I'm considering? Should I put in a relay and a switch so that I can cut the power from the battery, or is that overkill since the inverter has a power switch?

I'm also going to add some LED lights to the bed, but will size the setup for two 55 watt lights in case the LEDs suck I can change them out without re-wiring. I plan on using a fuse tap with a 1 amp fuse (but will change it to a 10 amp fuse if I decide to use the 55 watt setup down the line), to a 10 amp 12VDC rocker switch, to the bed with 14 AWG. Will 14 AWG be ok since the run from the fuse to the bed is a little long? Does that whole setup sound about right?

I have learned so much just browsing around this site, and everyone is really helpful.....THANKS!
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:32 PM   #2
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Number 2 wire and you fuse the inverter to slightly bigger then 1100 watts.

What the numbers will look like is 9 amp continuous at 120 volts 15 high and that is where you fuse it at and forget the peak of 18 some odd amps. The peaks are short and you should never be in that range during normal use. So then you fuse the battery from the 15 amp high setting which will be fused at 150 amps at 12 volts. Personally I don't think you'll ever be able to sustain a draw like that of the battery and alternator anyway. Think that you will be able to draw 9 amps trouble free and 15 amps in a pinch for short durations if the truck is running..

Fuses yes you can get fuses and fuse holders no problem that size.

I'll find the link.

You need a ANL type fuse and holder. Don't be cheap don't buy a single fuse get a spare too. although I don't think they sell them as singles anyway. Anyway the fuse holder is here too:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:48 PM   #3
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High current switches like that are a pain. It can be done though if you want. I think the switches are on the same site.
For the leds wire it for the bigger draw right off that bat. Like run say 14 gauge wires and then it's done. don't matter what you do then the wire is there for 15 amp fuse.

Because the runs on the #2 is not going to be very long I think you'll be fine. Your running it a little lean but I don't think you'll be able to get that kind of power out of the circuit for very long.

The fuse will blow at 120 amps over time. 80% safety built in. The 150 amp fuse will be able to handle that inverter peaks and all for short inrush situations. It's not a fast acting fuse.

If you want to make sure you never leave the inverter running when you remove the key the way to do it is run a 200 amp power relay off IGN 1 and forget the switch. The relay is also available on that site.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trap View Post
High current switches like that are a pain. It can be done though if you want. I think the switches are on the same site.
For the leds wire it for the bigger draw right off that bat. Like run say 14 gauge wires and then it's done. don't matter what you do then the wire is there for 15 amp fuse.

Because the runs on the #2 is not going to be very long I think you'll be fine. Your running it a little lean but I don't think you'll be able to get that kind of power out of the circuit for very long.

The fuse will blow at 120 amps over time. 80% safety built in. The 150 amp fuse will be able to handle that inverter peaks and all for short inrush situations. It's not a fast acting fuse.

If you want to make sure you never leave the inverter running when you remove the key the way to do it is run a 200 amp power relay off IGN 1 and forget the switch. The relay is also available on that site.
Thanks for the site. The only thing I don't quite get is how the relay would be wired and what gauge wires to use for each pole. Could you go into a little depth about that setup?
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:27 PM   #5
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Ya if you wanted to add it to the IGN 1 ( In the cab fuse box )what you do is get a Add A Fuse and fuse it for 5 amps. ( same link ) you can run 16 gauge to one of the little terminals on the power relay then the other small terminal to ground. On the add a fuse you just pull IGN 1 and plunk that fuse down on the bottom of the add a fuse then add one more 5 amp to the top of it and your golden. The wire stub will now be fused at 5 amps and that is your power for that large heavy duty 200 amp relay. It's just so easy to prevent unexpected dead batteries cause you or somebody else forgot to turn it off. It's always a good idea to not add always on stuff to the truck.

ATC type.

Now it will work with the key.

Next from the positive terminal of the battery to the fuse then from the other side of the fuse to the power relay large contact. The other side of the contacts to the inverter, same #2 wire..

Run a #2 ground also back to the battery. It's a large load, like the starter motor you want to run a dedicated ground all the way back to the battery. It will be more reliable that way. A 150 amp ground connections is tricky to make to steel. Better idea is just go back to the battery with that large wire.
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