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Anybody ever use this window tint?

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Old 03-25-2011, 06:51 PM   #1
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Anybody ever use this window tint?

Anybody ever use this window tint? Its 3m brand.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...Q5fAccessories
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vpcustoms View Post
Anybody ever use this window tint? Its 3m brand.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...Q5fAccessories
Cannot go wrong with 3M; just a fantastic company.

I Just ordered the full package a few days ago. I haven't received it yet, but I will probably post an install / review thread when I install it. I ordered their little 3-piece install kit also. I ordered 5% tint for the back seat and rear windows of my DC, and 15% for the fronts (nothing on the shield)

One thing I am still wondering is that I already have about 20% (stock) tint on the rears and back. I don't know if I can apply the 5% OVER the previous, or whether I need to remove the stock.

Anyone have experience with tinting over tint?
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:01 PM   #3
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It will be fine to tint over factory tint. Its a mess to peel off and retint.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:15 PM   #4
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3M makes great tint. Self install on the other hand.... ehhh.. If you can do it good for you, but I know I would mess it up
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Old 04-22-2011, 05:58 PM   #6
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DIY Window tinting

So far, so bad with my efforts at DIY window tinting.

I Spent today trying to apply 5% 3M tint film to the three panes of my rear slider window. The pieces came to me already pre-cut as the perfect sizes. I made the solution as prescribed. I applied the pieces and squeegeed out the solution using the squeegee tools they sell with the kit... pretty fun and easy... everything looked great from inside and out...no bubbles, uniform fit, clear, looked stock... until the corners of the film kept peeling away from my windows!

I spent most of the afternoon trying (unsuccessfully) to get the corners of the film to remain stuck to the window. I tried less concentrated soap solution, then finally some heat. I spoiled the centre piece of the slider in my efforts, and I don't know whether the films flanking the slider are going to stay on either. They are still ON for now, and I am hoping they just need some time and some convincing (re-squeegeeing) to stick.

I am not sure if the cooler temp (50F) is part of why I am having trouble. According to the instructions, 40-90F is acceptable. I have emailed filmvantage (ebay seller) for help, and I have asked if they will send replacements; should find out mid next week if they are willing to replace the spoiled piece(s).

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Old 04-22-2011, 06:03 PM   #7
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Just to clear things up the factory tint is not a film tint it is in the glass and cannot be removed and will not affect putting tint over it. IMO window tinting is best to be left to the professionals. Good luck!
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:42 PM   #8
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As stated above you can tint the smoked glass but you cant tint over tint film. Realise that 20% over the 20% smoked glass will look like 5% limo tint.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevL View Post
As stated above you can tint the smoked glass but you cant tint over tint film.
That is an incorrect statement.

You can put tint film over tint film, you just need to do it in stages.

Place one layer of tint on the glass and allow it to cure for at least 30 days. That will allow all of the moisture trapped under the tint to evaporate and the film to fully adhere to the glass.

Then you can put a second layer over the original layer.

It's not really a great thing to do, but it can be done.

I helped a buddy of mine do this many years ago to a Chevy Vega station wagon, and it was very dark inside. You could not see into the car at all from outside.
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:55 AM   #10
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One night in the warm garage and all is well with the 3M tint adhesion. Both rear sides of the slider window (5%) look very good; including the pesky corners that wouldn't hold (I think the 50F must have resulted in cold glass and poor adhesion, plus I think Filmvantages 3% J&J shampoo in distilled water recipe is just too HIGH soap content for that working temperature- I will cut that in half today)

If I could get my lazy ass off the couch and away from watching the Lightning lay a licking on the Penguins, I could get the rest of the windows done.
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:33 PM   #11
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Costs for DIY Installation:

Full window package (Back 3-piece slider, rear seats, front seats, NO windshield) for 09 Double Cab (FILMVANTAGE, ebay) $82.10 (FS in USA, or $8.93 to Canada)
Application tool kit (ebay) $10.51 (+1.79 shipping)
2 x 1L spray bottles ($5, Wal-Mart)
J&J shampoo ($4, Wal-Mart)
5 razor blades ($2, Wal-Mart)
Super Degoop solvent; to remove factory security stickers, and VIPER alarm decals ($4, Wal-Mart) ************* < $ 115.00 ***

DISCUSSION:

I spoiled the centre piece of my back slider window during my attempts at installing. Despite my best efforts, the edges of the tint film just would not adhere to the window for some reason. I am convinced it was because the recipe of the solution as recommended by the seller contains too much soap for the cool temperature I was working at (50F) - (Filmvantage has agreed to send me a replacement).

In addition to the back window, I completed the 3M FX PREMIUM (5%) tint install on my rear seat windows of my double cab today; looks very good. This is definitely a nice product to work with. If anyone is contemplating this DIY, I offer this advice:

INSTALL TIPS:

Watch (and rewatch, then watch again one more time) the video links on Filmvantage's ebay site (by WINNERS WINDOW TINT owner). The guy makes it look easy, and if you do as he does, it is quite easy. There is no point of me making a video, because (other than being better looking), I couldn't possibly make a better video.

You don't need a heat gun if you buy the PRE-CUT film. DEFINITELY the way to go!

I used snug fitting latex gloves to prevent fingerprints when placing my back slider window film pieces, then no gloves when placing my rear seat windows; BOTH worked well. I would have continued to use gloves if I didn't run out.

Spend the extra $13 (delivered) on the little tool kit ebay seller Filmvantage offers; VERY useful tools that I would not want to attempt the job without.

Consider starting on the BACK window (left and right pieces flanking the slider, THEN the slider) as these are the smallest window pieces, and easiest to install (because they do not require "tucking" under window jams like all the other windows DO).

PREPARATION of WINDOWS and WINDOW JAMS:

In addition to using solvent and a (NEW) razor blade to clean all decals and glues off the window REALLY well, it is a good idea to gently scrape the entire window surface with a clean razor blade to make sure there is no dirt or residue of any kind (including fly-shit), then spend some extra time cleaning and recleaning both sides of the windows themselves, AND the areas of the truck door surrounding the window (because the tint film WILL touch the surrounding areas during placement, so it should be as clean as possible, ESPECIALLY INSIDE the window's rubber seal. Use a paper towel on the "bumping card" to drag inside the entire length of the window seal first to clean it, then a clean paper towel to ensure that it IS clean.

CLEAN the windows on BOTH SIDES of the vehicle BEFORE you start (just in case you prepare a film, spray it, peal off the release liner, THEN realize it was upside down, and belongs to the OPPOSITE side. You will still be ready to go. It may NOT be obvious until fitting them as to which REAR seat window piece is for WHICH side of the vehicle.

If you happen to have a huge mirror (as used in FILMVANTAGE ebay site demo videos), move it to your work area, and use it as your prep area to clean and prepare the tint film before applying to the vehicle windows; this worked VERY well for me (watch the Filmvantage demo video, this will make sense immediately).

Especially if installing at cooler temperatures (40-60F), use about 0.5% (5ml in 1L) J&J shampoo in distilled water (not 3% as recommended in accompanying product instructions). The video installer says "a few drops shampoo" which certainly does not match the 3% in the included paper instructions.

I still need to decide if I am going to risk getting ticketed by applying the 15% film on my FRONT windows.

FINAL RESULTS:

I am very satisfied with the result. The tint Looks PERFECT from the outside, and VERY GOOD from the inside. There are some small specks/bubbles visible (when inspecting from less than 12 inches) along the bottom margin of the sliding windows only. According to the seller's video instruction, these may even disappear after a few days. Not a big deal if they remain (Noticeable only to me, likely). Glad I did it. I will edit this post by adding photos if there is any request for me to do so.
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Old 04-28-2011, 12:00 PM   #12
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I'm thinking about doing this myself and have seen the kits on e-bay (and elsewhere) which come pre-cut. I've done it in the past (some 20 years ago), so I know what I'm getting into.
Here's some questions for you:
I'm only looking at putting the 35% tint on the driver and passenger front windows to match the factory rear tint on my 2011 AC.
Would removing the door panels be an advantage when using this pre-cut film?? Is the film supposed to go down below the wiper on the door panel where removing it would make application easier??
And finally, how far up does the top of the film go to the top of the windows in a pre-cut kit?? I like my film to go up to within 1/8" from the top lip of the window.
One suggestion for you if you've still got film peeling: Use clear nail polish or laquer along the edge of the film to make it adhere to the window. At least that's what we used about 20 years ago...
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cverneau View Post
I'm thinking about doing this myself and have seen the kits on e-bay (and elsewhere) which come pre-cut. I've done it in the past (some 20 years ago), so I know what I'm getting into.
Here's some questions for you:
I'm only looking at putting the 35% tint on the driver and passenger front windows to match the factory rear tint on my 2011 AC.
Would removing the door panels be an advantage when using this pre-cut film?? Is the film supposed to go down below the wiper on the door panel where removing it would make application easier??
And finally, how far up does the top of the film go to the top of the windows in a pre-cut kit?? I like my film to go up to within 1/8" from the top lip of the window.
One suggestion for you if you've still got film peeling: Use clear nail polish or laquer along the edge of the film to make it adhere to the window. At least that's what we used about 20 years ago...
I guess it would make it "easier," but from my experience with the rear window tucking, I am not going to remove the panels when I do the fronts. The film DOES go below the wiper, and although it is an anxious minute or two to "tuck it in,"...

...AS LONG AS you use plenty of solution... and
...As long as you HAVE the plastic bumping card and squeegee (or similar tools) to tuck it past the window seals, (about 1/4 inch on the sides, and 1/2 inch on the bottom seal), the film "tucks" suprisingly well.

Yes, even the SIDES of the film need to be tucked, but again, surprizingly easy AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE TOP LINED UP VERY WELL, then squeegee it to provide some anchoring. (I saw another website that pealed the left and right seals OUT when applying the film; it looked pretty easy to remove and replace. I MIGHT try this, but really the sides tucked easily in my install)


1/8" from the top is very achievable, and that is right where mine is also.


I was considering all types of adhesives, but the morning after my install, I went into my warm garage, "finger-pressed the corners" down, and they have been perfect ever since.... I was a victim of using the BAD application solution receipe from Filmvantage. 3-4 DROPS J&J in a LITRE of distilled water is what you need to use, and what the Filmvantage WEBSITE DEMONSTRATION PRO RECOMMENDED, NOT 3%. I have suggested to them that they make this correction to their instructions that they include with their shipping, and they have agreed to pass on this request to their managers.

If the edges/corners of my film peels away, I will try the nail polish as you suggest.... Thank you.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:44 AM   #14
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Excellent. I was leery about buying pre-cut as I wasn't sure if the size would be too small around the outside edges and where it's tucked under the seals (both below and the sides). From what you're saying, they give a generous amount for the tucking as well as going to the top edge.
I just need to figure out if I'm going to purchase the 3m or the Llumar film.
From what I understand, the Llumar is the best with the 3m running a close second. They're about the same price as far as e-bay goes with the pre-cut film.
I'm definitely going to do this now. Thanks!!
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