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Old 02-06-2013, 09:14 AM   #101
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My opinions lean toward research and what past experience has shown.

Most of the time what designers use has already been used in different applications.

The stock spark plugs are plated and they need not to be coated with anti- seize grease because depending on the type you use the torque specifications are changed (reduced) yet I have found that the only time I have had a spark plug backout has been when using anti-seize.

Effectively NGK does not want you to use ant-seize on their plated spark plug threads.

I would recomend checking the torque settings of your spark plugs before a long trip or if you have used any type of lubricant on the threads when installing them.

Some of my friends are engine performance buffs (gearheads) and everyone at one time or another brings up the ignition subject, hotter plugs or, colder plugs, design variances, wire sizes, timing, sensors, computers, etc...

With spark plugs there are several determining factors surounding design and applications but they follow a few basic guide lines that should be considered.

Combustion chamber design.
Engine compression ratios.
Fuel octane
Driving habits.
I use the phrase "driving habits" in a broad sense; to cover where and how you drive, and that includes traffic and terrain.

With Toyota the Japanese business ethic doesn't compete domestically but internationally and abroad.
It is nothing new for them to obey restictive emmision laws and follow another countries regulations because Japan's own laws have been shown to be demanding in compliance.

The spark plugs that come in their vehicles are in compliance to fulfill
regulation testing standards and warranty standards, and the brands that are used also cover the regulations for fair economic practice laws set in place by their country.

Anytime an ignition component is changed from what is common design in a vehicle, the ECM to recognise the change should be reset if it is desirable to expedite the behavior and adaptation process. (disconnect the negative battery cable from the terminal for 3 to 5 seconds)
It then takes appoximately 50 miles of drive time for the ECM to adjust efficently.

One of the steps that is outlined when either testing or replacing
electrical and ignition components is to disconnent to battery for the duration of the job performed.

Touching the negative cable to a common ground for a few seconds after disconnection from the battery also helps capacitive discharging of the system.

One of the reasons spark plugs don't last longer than we wish they would is because they loose their efficentcy from wear on the electrode edeges from the stress of the electrical currents ability to jump from the center electrode to the side electrode and the right angles that are manufactured into the plugs design.

Through the convection of heat by compression in the combustion chamber and the rapid cooling from the air fuel mixture over repeditive cycles, the plugs litterally loose their edge.

When the electrodes designed efficentcy is compromissed the electric current has a natural tendancy to find the path of least resistance in order for the current to travel to it's polar end.

The current when facing resistance finds other points of collection to travel to and the direction of the spark developed can retard the combustion cycle and cause an incomplete burn and build carbon deposits which the carbon itself can retain heat and prematurely ignite the fuel mix causing pre-ignition/knock which further retards the ignition sytem causing fuel to be wasted in a effort to correct itself by restricting the spark plug from firing, cooling the affected chamber .
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:45 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagunito View Post
My opinions lean toward research and what past experience has shown.

Most of the time what designers use has already been used in different applications.

The stock spark plugs are plated and they need not to be coated with anti- seize grease because depending on the type you use the torque specifications are changed (reduced) yet I have found that the only time I have had a spark plug backout has been when using anti-seize.

Effectively NGK does not want you to use ant-seize on their plated spark plug threads.

I would recomend checking the torque settings of your spark plugs before a long trip or if you have used any type of lubricant on the threads when installing them.

Some of my friends are engine performance buffs (gearheads) and everyone at one time or another brings up the ignition subject, hotter plugs or, colder plugs, design variances, wire sizes, timing, sensors, computers, etc...

With spark plugs there are several determining factors surounding design and applications but they follow a few basic guide lines that should be considered.

Combustion chamber design.
Engine compression ratios.
Fuel octane
Driving habits.
I use the phrase "driving habits" in a broad sense; to cover where and how you drive, and that includes traffic and terrain.

With Toyota the Japanese business ethic doesn't compete domestically but internationally and abroad.
It is nothing new for them to obey restictive emmision laws and follow another countries regulations because Japan's own laws have been shown to be demanding in compliance.

The spark plugs that come in their vehicles are in compliance to fulfill
regulation testing standards and warranty standards, and the brands that are used also cover the regulations for fair economic practice laws set in place by their country.

Anytime an ignition component is changed from what is common design in a vehicle, the ECM to recognise the change should be reset if it is desirable to expedite the behavior and adaptation process. (disconnect the negative battery cable from the terminal for 3 to 5 seconds)
It then takes appoximately 50 miles of drive time for the ECM to adjust efficently.

One of the steps that is outlined when either testing or replacing
electrical and ignition components is to disconnent to battery for the duration of the job performed.

Touching the negative cable to a common ground for a few seconds after disconnection from the battery also helps capacitive discharging of the system.

One of the reasons spark plugs don't last longer than we wish they would is because they loose their efficentcy from wear on the electrode edeges from the stress of the electrical currents ability to jump from the center electrode to the side electrode and the right angles that are manufactured into the plugs design.

Through the convection of heat by compression in the combustion chamber and the rapid cooling from the air fuel mixture over repeditive cycles, the plugs litterally loose their edge.

When the electrodes designed efficentcy is compromissed the electric current has a natural tendancy to find the path of least resistance in order for the current to travel to it's polar end.

The current when facing resistance finds other points of collection to travel to and the direction of the spark developed can retard the combustion cycle and cause an incomplete burn and build carbon deposits which the carbon itself can retain heat and prematurely ignite the fuel mix causing pre-ignition/knock which further retards the ignition sytem causing fuel to be wasted in a effort to correct itself by restricting the spark plug from firing, cooling the affected chamber .
Might want to make sure that you wrote that correctly. If you disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and touch it to a common ground location, you accomplish nothing. To discharge the on-board capacitors you need to disconnect the negative cable and connect it to a +12V point, which will discharge the capacitors. I assume that is what you meant to say.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:14 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Might want to make sure that you wrote that correctly. If you disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and touch it to a common ground location, you accomplish nothing. To discharge the on-board capacitors you need to disconnect the negative cable and connect it to a +12V point, which will discharge the capacitors. I assume that is what you meant to say.
Please stop harassing and following my every post you are annoying.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:18 AM   #104
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Wow. Um, wasn't following anything. Just saw a post in a forum that I was in already. You should be less paranoid? I am trying to make sure people know the CORRECT information and procedure before they damage something.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:25 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagunito View Post
Please stop harassing and following my every post you are annoying.
Stop being wrong?
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:45 AM   #106
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Wow. Um, wasn't following anything. Just saw a post in a forum that I was in already. You should be less paranoid? I am trying to make sure people know the CORRECT information and procedure before they damage something.
Look arguing with you is a lost cause this should be taken to private messages but I seriously doubt you know how to respond to one.

I don't want to be as large an orifice as your seeming to be, but I would like to point out that some one that has completed ASE training has proven at the very least that they have acomplished the task of reading and comprehension, to which you have failed at both.

The positive aspect of your nature is that you will be undoubtedly be here more time that myself to give assistance to people that may really need it.

But if you continue with the premmise of of being of the highest order of learning with nothing left to achive (a basic know it all) you not only do yourself a miscredit but all the people that have and use ASE as credentials.

ASE even makes an effort to educate student in the ability to deal in customer service aspect of the work place.

So either you had someone else take the tests for you, inherited them from your father that has the same name or, it was a long time ago or you haven't renewed your license since 1985 when you were 16.
And although you may have known a lot back then things have changed,
and obviously your memory isn't what it use to be.

Every time you want to give the correct information what you are actually saying is you want someone to teach you because you don't know.
Your challenges have been baseless and rudimentary.

So son, please read more and post less , unless you have a legitimate question that isn't full of contempt and sarcasm.

What I want is an applogy and or you to back down and get off your high horse or else you are going on my ignore list.( or at least this is what you could hope for)
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:53 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worthywads View Post
Stop being wrong?
I'll expain it to you if that is what you are asking.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #108
ASE Master Tech
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Well it seems that I am being called out. Well I have no problems at all with my knowledge, and my certifications. I will post in this, and the other thread our interesting PM that you initiated, and let us see which one of us has the proper qualifications.

The following is a copy of the PM, and my reply. I decided to leave the spelling mistakes since it appears you, Lagunito, are saying I need to brush up on my reading skills. I think YOU need to brush up on your spelling skills.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagunito
This non-sense has to stop,
I didn't want to publicly embarrass you but you left me no choice.

You need to stop portraying an ASE tecnician,
because you're doing more harm than good.

If you have personal problems with your health or finances,
of your depressed or lonely I can understand becasue I've been there.
But you have to be truthful to yourself and others, becasue you're doing the complete opposite of what you intend if you are sincer in really helping other members.

I'll give you 24 hours to respond.
Feel free to post my quoted reply Mr Lagunito. You are barking up the wrong tree if you think I am not a qualified technician. I have tried to be polite and civil, but you sir, have fired the first shot. The gloves are now off. You WILL loose this battle.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:34 AM   #109
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #112
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I haven't read thru everything on here about spark plugs but why does a GM engine go 100,000 miles between plug changes and the Tacoma only 30,000 miles? I have a 2004 GMC Z71 and had the plugs changed at 100,000 miles as recommended by the manufacture. I had no issues before or after, same gas mileage.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:26 AM   #113
Just out for a rip are ya bud?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagunito View Post
Look arguing with you is a lost cause this should be taken to private messages but I seriously doubt you know how to respond to one.

I don't want to be as large an orifice as your seeming to be, but I would like to point out that some one that has completed ASE training has proven at the very least that they have acomplished the task of reading and comprehension, to which you have failed at both.

The positive aspect of your nature is that you will be undoubtedly be here more time that myself to give assistance to people that may really need it.

But if you continue with the premmise of of being of the highest order of learning with nothing left to achive (a basic know it all) you not only do yourself a miscredit but all the people that have and use ASE as credentials.

ASE even makes an effort to educate student in the ability to deal in customer service aspect of the work place.

So either you had someone else take the tests for you, inherited them from your father that has the same name or, it was a long time ago or you haven't renewed your license since 1985 when you were 16.
And although you may have known a lot back then things have changed,
and obviously your memory isn't what it use to be.

Every time you want to give the correct information what you are actually saying is you want someone to teach you because you don't know.
Your challenges have been baseless and rudimentary.

So son, please read more and post less , unless you have a legitimate question that isn't full of contempt and sarcasm.

What I want is an applogy and or you to back down and get off your high horse or else you are going on my ignore list.( or at least this is what you could hope for)
Why do you still insist on rowing your douche canoe down tool bag river?

You have 47 posts an nobody knows who you are, I don't think anyone gives a shit if they are on your ignore list. Go ahead and put me on it, it will literally make ZERO difference to me, or anyone else.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:35 AM   #114
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:37 AM   #115
Go home if you don't like guns liquor and whores.
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These guys are making mechanics look bad!
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:39 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMW View Post
I haven't read thru everything on here about spark plugs but why does a GM engine go 100,000 miles between plug changes and the Tacoma only 30,000 miles? I have a 2004 GMC Z71 and had the plugs changed at 100,000 miles as recommended by the manufacture. I had no issues before or after, same gas mileage.
There are numerous vehicles who have varying recommended mileage intervals for their spark plugs. Why is one different than the other? Well in the case of GM, they use only ACDelco plugs, and ACDelco says their plugs will last 100k miles when used in GM vehicles. Those are the plugs I have seen the most to be honest. I have used NGKs on all of the Nissan and Toyota vehicles I have ever owned.

If you go to the NGK spark plug website, you can find this answer in their FAQ on how often to replace spark plugs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGKsparlplugs.com
Unfortunately,there is no single answer to this question. As spark plugs grow older, they lose their sharp edges as material from the center and ground electrodes is slowly eroded away. As the gap between these two points grows, the voltage required to bridge the gap increases proportionately. Even the best ignition systems will be strained to supply enough voltage to completely burn the fuel. It is at this point, when fuel is being left unburned, that the time has come to change spark plugs. Replacing worn out spark plugs with new ones (with sharp new edges) effectively restores the ignition system's efficiency. Misfires are reduced, power is restored, economy of operation is enhanced and emissions are reduced.
The best guide is the manufacturer's recommendation for your vehicle, as this particular service varies from brand to brand and model to model. In the absence of this information or in conjunction with it, you can rely on the advice of a mechanic who is familiar with your type of vehicle. In the best of all worlds, this would be a mechanic who is also familiar with the vehicle you own. If you find a good mechanic, whether dealer or independent, stick with him. The better he knows your personal vehicle, the better he will be able to diagnose and service it. The end result is very much like a doctor-patient relationship and, in the long run, you will have a healthier vehicle.


By the way, to be fair, and give you a chance Lagunito, I have also posted here:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off...tw-member.html
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:02 AM   #117
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:58 PM   #118
AKA ::1
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I heard you like grounds, so I recommend
grounding your ground to ground, so you
can ground your grounded ground while
you are grounding your grounded grounded
ground to ground.
TL;DR let x=x
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:05 PM   #120
Well, let's play chess.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leggo View Post
my negative cable won't reach the ground, can I use the negative battery terminal instead?
NO!

Attach the BLACK lead of some jumper cables to the ground connector, and the other end of the BLACK lead to a copper water pipe, ground rod, or some other earthed contact. At the same time, connect a RED lead to the front tow hook, and the other RED lead to the hitch receiver. If you don't have a hitch receiver, you can try attaching to the driver's side rear spring shackle, but I make no promises. BTW, this only works with a stock suspension.
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