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Old 02-14-2013, 05:31 AM   #121
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The reason touching the negative cable to the positive terminal on the battery should not be recomended is the same reason vehicle manufacturers give instructions on jump starting a battery with a neutral grounding point, not on the negative post of the battery.

The negative ground system on an vehicle uses several grounding points through out.
The positive leads to various actuators and components are fused and relayed.
Capacitors are simular in fuction and theory to batteries except the capacitor discharges more rapidly and some what violently.

For this reason the method of discharging them is important.

Forcing the electrical charge by looping the negative cable into the positive electrical storage and current flow is alright on some older vehicles.

Newer vehicles are more sensitive because their circuits, components, and actuators use smaller gauge wiring and fuses to protect them, they are more suseptable to failure. Some failures won't be have immediate results, but the stress on the sytems they cause can be evident in the reduced longevity of the affected parts.

Some manufactures suggest disconnecting the positive battery cable and touching the negative battery terminal for the reason as stated above.

I suggested using the negative battery cable as a ground to a chassis which is effective in the sense that it is a larger conduit for the electricity to follow, compared to the smaller grounding points throughout a vehicle when a reversed current flow is used.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:31 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
NO!

Attach the BLACK lead of some jumper cables to the ground connector, and the other end of the BLACK lead to a copper water pipe, ground rod, or some other earthed contact. At the same time, connect a RED lead to the front tow hook, and the other RED lead to the hitch receiver. If you don't have a hitch receiver, you can try attaching to the driver's side rear spring shackle, but I make no promises. BTW, this only works with a stock suspension.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:43 AM   #123
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I tried, but I can't compete.
I'm bush league compared to that.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:49 PM   #124
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Thanks for posting the info on here. Replaced my spark plugs today with NKGs. The original plugs from the factory were still there (this was part of my "new to me" maintenance which also included all fluids and air filter). Surprisingly, from what i could tell, the Toyota Maintenance Schedule recommends the first replacement at 120k miles on the v6. Gaps ranged from .047mm to .060mm.

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:09 AM   #125
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Another Reason

Also, there are gases excaping from the battery that Can/Have Expolded from sparks from doing things like that.
Trust me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagunito View Post
The reason touching the negative cable to the positive terminal on the battery should not be recomended is the same reason vehicle manufacturers give instructions on jump starting a battery with a neutral grounding point, not on the negative post of the battery.

The negative ground system on an vehicle uses several grounding points through out.
The positive leads to various actuators and components are fused and relayed.
Capacitors are simular in fuction and theory to batteries except the capacitor discharges more rapidly and some what violently.

For this reason the method of discharging them is important.

Forcing the electrical charge by looping the negative cable into the positive electrical storage and current flow is alright on some older vehicles.

Newer vehicles are more sensitive because their circuits, components, and actuators use smaller gauge wiring and fuses to protect them, they are more suseptable to failure. Some failures won't be have immediate results, but the stress on the sytems they cause can be evident in the reduced longevity of the affected parts.

Some manufactures suggest disconnecting the positive battery cable and touching the negative battery terminal for the reason as stated above.

I suggested using the negative battery cable as a ground to a chassis which is effective in the sense that it is a larger conduit for the electricity to follow, compared to the smaller grounding points throughout a vehicle when a reversed current flow is used.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:52 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big O View Post
Also, there are gases excaping from the battery that Can/Have Expolded from sparks from doing things like that.
Trust me.
Yes, extreme caution should be used when one chooses to discharge the internal capacitors. You are correct in that. The point I was making in my earlier post was that touching a negative cable to a ground point does nothing to actually discharge a capacitor. Granted when you disconnect the ground cable itself the capacitors will begin to discharge on their own, but if you want to discharge them completely you can "short" the capacitors, thus draining them totally.

The only way to short it is to have the battery itself disconnected (always remove the ground cable first, as directed by every manufacturer) and short a ground to a power source. This can be done several ways, but typically the easiest has been to short the removed ground cable to a positive source, which can be the positive terminal of the battery, or the alternator's power cable, or, in some vehicles which have this option, to the jumper cable connection block.

I do concede that you are correct, and caution should be used when doing this type of action.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:52 PM   #127
slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoorDing View Post
NO!

Attach the BLACK lead of some jumper cables to the ground connector, and the other end of the BLACK lead to a copper water pipe, ground rod, or some other earthed contact. At the same time, connect a RED lead to the front tow hook, and the other RED lead to the hitch receiver. If you don't have a hitch receiver, you can try attaching to the driver's side rear spring shackle, but I make no promises. BTW, this only works with a stock suspension.
got it now,
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:59 PM   #128
Most people call me ... Jim.
DoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leggo View Post
got it now,
I'm extremely relieved. You have no idea how slowly the minutes have passed, wondering if you'd heeded my advice. Please tell me you have no interest in deviating from the FSM's recommendations WRT the use of any type of thread treatment!
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:30 AM   #130
Most people call me ... Jim.
DoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Uh oh. Better just toss a flare in the filler neck and get it over with. And you had such a nice truck ...
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #132
Most people call me ... Jim.
DoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shedDoorDing is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Yeah. We've both been employing it. Except for the bit about your nice truck. I meant that.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:23 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaToy1997 View Post
Wow. Um, wasn't following anything. Just saw a post in a forum that I was in already. You should be less paranoid? I am trying to make sure people know the CORRECT information and procedure before they damage something.
It serves you well for starting crap fights with crazy people
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:26 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDtrucks View Post
Why do you still insist on rowing your douche canoe down tool bag river?

You have 47 posts an nobody knows who you are, I don't think anyone gives a shit if they are on your ignore list. Go ahead and put me on it, it will literally make ZERO difference to me, or anyone else.
What do you mean we dont know who he is... Isn't it obvious
He is great mechanic...
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:30 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
That banhammer must be itching at this point
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:36 AM   #137
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Question- Don't the premium plugs give you a longer service interval? Is there anything wrong with using them? (Have kids, don't get too much time to work on my truck)
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:43 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPower05 View Post
Question- Don't the premium plugs give you a longer service interval? Is there anything wrong with using them? (Have kids, don't get too much time to work on my truck)
why cheese out and try to increase a service interval beyond what is state din the manual ?

also, please do not use the word 'premium' as it means nothing really....
rather, state the exact make/model/type of plug

you either have a:
standard copper plug
or platinum tipped
or iridium tipped

all OEM...made by Denso or NGK

of these, platinum or iridium wear out slower, is that what you mean ?
-------
for other plugs...splitfire, halo, pulsestar...all sorts of mpg increase
claims, they are all 100% garbage and a waste of time and money
-------
in any and all cases, use the plugs which are stated in the manual

essentially reposting the first post here

Spark plug
2.7 L 4-cylinder (2TR-FE)
Make DENSO SK20HR-A11
Gap 0.043 in. (1.1 mm)


4.0 L V6 (1GR-FE) engine
Make DENSO K20HR-U11
Make NGK LFR6C11
Gap 0.043 in. (1.1 mm)

Iridium-tipped spark plugs (2.7 L 4-cylinder [2TR-FE] engine only)
Use only iridium-tipped spark plugs. Do not adjust gap when tuning engine
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:34 PM   #139
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Great info
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:37 PM   #140
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Spark plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris4x4 View Post
Thought you all should read this.


Another thing that wasnt mentioned, Electircity follows the path of least resistance. So, "E", "V", etc. plugs STILL are only going to generate 1 spark.


Recomended plugs:

First gen.

2RZ-FE & 3RZ-FE engines:

Denso K16R-U11

NGK BKR5EYA-U

Gap .043"

5VZ-FE engine:

Denso K16TR11

NGK BKR5EKB-11

Gap .043"


Second gens:

2TR-FE engine

Denso SK20HR11

NGK ILFR6C11

Gap .039" to .043"

1GR-FE engine

Denso K20HR-U11

NGK LFR6C-11

Gap .039" to .043"
What do you think about E3 plugs ??
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