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Old 08-06-2011, 03:30 PM   #1
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Favor..AC Compressor

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Im in the process of diagnosing my AC system, my AC system isnt blowing cold air, the AC button led is flashing, and theres a loud squell that lasts for about 5+ seconds when the AC is turned I coming from the AC compressor,

I think its the bearing for the clutch in the compressor, can any body take off there skid plate, and turn what i think is the "clutch" for the compressor the front side of the compressor the face of it, my spins with the truck off but there's some tension on it and it feels like it gets stiffer in some spots throughout the spin, that may be my imagination, but i just need to no if its even supposed to spin when the vehicles off or if it is supposed to spin but freely with no tension, so could somebody help me out, or hopefully somebody already knows the answer, thank you very much
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:31 PM   #2
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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It should spin freely with the engine off.
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:33 PM   #3
jeckel7234 [OP] jeckel7234 is offline
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awesome thank you
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:36 PM   #4
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and just one last thing, just to make sure im on the right path, so if theres tension spinning the clutch with the truck off, am i right with assuming the bearing or the actual clutch itself is bad
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:37 PM   #5
With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeckel7234 View Post
and just one last thing, just to make sure im on the right path, so if theres tension spinning the clutch with the truck off, am i right with assuming the bearing or the actual clutch itself is bad
Im not really good at diagnoseing AC issues, but I would asume thats correct.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:33 PM   #6
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Mine went a couple weeks ago, with similar symptoms. The compressor seized, which smoked the clutch and chewed up a belt pretty good. It was an impressive amount of smoke (smells like burnt hair) and the A/C light was blinking, so you'll know when it goes. If you turn off the A/C and let the clutch free wheel you can still drive it if the belt is still there. I ordered a kit off ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...Q5fAccessories) for $520 that came with everything I needed. I probably didn't have to replace the condenser, but when the pump went it blew all kinds of dookie into the lines, so I replaced everything and flushed the lines real good to make sure the new one lasts. Pretty simple swap, just remember to replace all the seals with new ones and get the right amount of PAG oil into it, the book calls for 5.61 FL OZ of oil and 21.11 OZ of R134a.
I took it to town to get it vacuum purged and filled "the right way" cause the refrigerant cans from vato zone are garbage and will toast a new pump quick. It cost about $50 to get done, so total was around $600. Frosts the cab like a coors light commercial now.

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Old 08-07-2011, 10:31 AM   #7
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Thanks for the info man, luckily my it hasnt completly seized yet, the belts still on and in good shape, im going to call toyota or denso tomorrow to try and find the clutch/bearing for the compressor, if thats all i change w/o taking it off the truck, am i still going to need to change all the other stuff as well as flush the whole sytstem thanks again
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:31 AM   #8
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The clutch is made out of solid steel. It would take many lifetimes to wear one out, it's engaged magnetically and those don't wear out either. The reason the clutch slips is because it doesn't have enough traction to turn your pump, which means your pump has a lot of drag and is ready to go. I thought the same thing as you, and looked into getting the clutch but all I could find was aftermarket ones that aren't compatible with the factory pump. I'm sure it wouldn't cost much to take it to an AC place and get it diagnosed, but my money is on a bad pump.
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:53 PM   #9
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thanks man, my plan tomorrow is to take it to a shop for a diagnosis, for some reason all the ac shops are closed during the weekend, hopefully it wont be the pump, i got my finger crossed
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeckel7234 View Post
Thanks for the info man, luckily my it hasnt completly seized yet, the belts still on and in good shape, im going to call toyota or denso tomorrow to try and find the clutch/bearing for the compressor, if thats all i change w/o taking it off the truck, am i still going to need to change all the other stuff as well as flush the whole sytstem thanks again
Im in the process of trying to diagnose my AC problem too. I think my bearing inside the clutch is going bad also. Did you end up finding a new bearing or clutch? I was told that I would need a whole new compressor from a guy at nappa but I'm pretty sure the bearing is just bad. It makes a whistling sound when the compressed is on.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysully View Post
Im in the process of trying to diagnose my AC problem too. I think my bearing inside the clutch is going bad also. Did you end up finding a new bearing or clutch? I was told that I would need a whole new compressor from a guy at nappa but I'm pretty sure the bearing is just bad. It makes a whistling sound when the compressed is on.
not necessarily true, the part is dealer only. try taking your clutch off with the special puller and see if it is actually the bearin. if yes here the link to your part
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...gramCallOut=13
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:35 PM   #13
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if you hook up ac gauges and the high side needles is bouncing crazy is an indication that the compressor needles are bad
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:00 PM   #14
Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.
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Here's a related question, doesn't the AC compressor engage and spin when the dash selector is set to defrost?

Here's why I ask...

When calling for AC, my 06 recently did the crazy squeal thing for a few seconds, followed by the *blinking* AC light sequence before it cuts off. No cold air. I stopped toying around before the belt got glazed.

From what I read, I think that deal is a built in fail safe if AC is selected and the compressor fails to spin / turn.

However... if I set the dash control to defrost, the squeal goes away and the defroster works as it should. So my question is, if the compressor spins both on AC and defrost by factory settings, and the compressor currently acts like it's locked up when I select AC, but it makes no noise and works fine on defrost, how could the compressor be bad if it didn't lock up on both settings?

Note: I did read on one of many other AC issue posts that the pressure can dictate if the pulley spins? Maybe it needs charged?

I'm thinking I need a compressor... but holy shnikes if I buy one and really didn't need it. They ain't cheap!

Suggestions?
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:54 PM   #15
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Open the hood and look with the motor running dude. I'll betchya dimes to donuts it's the pump. You can get a new kit off ebay or rock auto cheaper than the dealer, but the quality probably isn't as good.
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:50 PM   #16
Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.
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I'm with ya bud, I think it's the pump too... it's that defrost issue that throws me a curve.

Doesn't the clutch engage the pulley on the compressor when the dash selector is on AC as well as for when it's set on defrost?

My thoughts are that the dayhum thing should howl like a wounded wolf on either setting.

Right now it only howls on the AC setting. I'm sure that sumbitch isn't spinning clockwise for one and counter for the other.

What the FfffFFFff ACK!
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:23 PM   #17
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1) start truck
2)pop hood
3)turn on defrost
4)look at a/c pump. Is the center part turning or stationary?
5)post results on TW so everyone knows.

Option two, wonder about it for the rest of eternity because this guy does not have a definitive answer for you.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:45 PM   #18
Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.
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Roger that, truck is in SC with my son. Can't do that or I would. Since you have one, how bout you do that and revert to #5.
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:58 PM   #19
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Hate to break bad news but it's highly possible you need to replace the whole compressor. I'd say take it to specialized a/c repair shop to get a accurate estimate. Even if it's just the bearing/clutch assembly remember the housing is aluminum which gets messed up from a sezied bearing. I highly recommend replacing with factory or oem (denso) because aftermarket reman compressors were junk and always returns at my old job (you pay for what you get). Another thing is in every a/c system there is only refrigerant (r134a) and Refrigerant oil. When theres a leak in your system you not only loose the gas but also the oil. It's like running your engine without motor oil and what happens is bam your got a sezied engine. Have a competent technician check the root of the problem. Hope this helps and good luck
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:36 AM   #20
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5) With the defrost turned on the clutch is indeed engaged to the A/C compressor.
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