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Leather Access Cab Install

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by primer, Oct 9, 2011.

  1. Oct 9, 2011 at 7:13 AM
    #1
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    OK
    Vehicle:
    06 SS Mica AC 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    When I put my leather in my Access cab I found less info than I really hoped about redoing the rear seats etc... I decided to try and document this a little better.

    Disclaimers:
    Do this stuff at your own risk.
    I’m no expert and don’t pretend to know what I’m doing.
    This isn’t a stand alone DIY for the fronts - you’ll need to use some other references.

    First - I got my stuff from someone who had bought a set from John Huey in the Katzkin group buy:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/140277-katzkin-leather-seat-group-buy.html

    The set didn’t fit this guys truck so he sold them to me at a good price. I bought my seat heaters from John - and some hog rings and pliers. So John didn’t make much at all on this deal - but he was very responsive by PM, email, and even phone when I had questions. He’s great to deal with. See my note at the end of the write up.

    I did my Access Cab in the following steps:
    Front door arm rests.
    Rear Jump-seat backs.
    Rear Jump-seat bottoms.
    Front seats.

    Here we go.

    To do the arm rests I used this DIY:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/2755-diy-leather-arm-rests.html
    
I used this adhesive:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/group-buys/140277-katzkin-leather-seat-group-buy.html

    This was the part that turned out the worst for me.

    Things I learned:
    When you are drilling out the melt points I think a big drill bit works better. Be careful though. The drill can grab and advance quickly if you’re not careful.

    I put the leather (vinyl for this actually) over the existing material. It takes some work to keep it from wrinkling as you work it onto the armrest. You will have to make some relief around the edges to make it better.

    I planned to put the material on and then take some pics before putting them back in the doors. I don’t know if it’s true - but as I did it, it really felt like putting them right in the doors would help keep things in place as they dried. So I put them right in. Thus no pics.

    This is how it looked from the back before I trimmed the extra vinyl:
    IMG_2396_fd44f643aee71f20f53e01b568c1299e078ae31d.jpg

    One issue was the bulk of the material at the edges making it hard to put the inserts back in the door piece. I decided to cut the existing fabric away right at the edges and that helped them fit back in a lot easier. Not sure if that’s a good idea or not.

    IMG_2326_c6a874e7ecb8f192006e416ae37f11d63d601f76.jpg

    I read #10 1/2” screws. Couldn’t find anything shorter than 5/8”. So I went with #8 1/2”. These worked OK - but didn’t get any purchase in some holes so I used a few of the #10 5/8 with a couple washers when needed.

    This is what happens when a screw is a touch too long. I don’t think there’s anything I can do about this - but don’t let it happen to you.

    IMG_2379_0ad622b3ee7872fe3de3463d16a80a26ac0b1201.jpg

    It came out OK, but my leather is lifting off slightly already. I suck.

    While I had the door panels off I painted the speaker grills. I didn’t think this up, but can’t remember where I saw it.

    IMG_2325_ca31fdeae9e3694ea4f6f20d16a29e36065879cf.jpg

    It’s tough to mask the edge of the grill because there is a groove there. I learned (the hard way) that if a little overspray gets on the gray part of the door - it will come off with a little paint thinner on a paper towel. And doesn’t appear to harm the panel at all.

    I also used this:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002766T5U

    That allows you to fill the groove around the grill completely if your paint doesn’t look perfect.


    OK - on to the rear.

    The very first thing I did was pull of the seatback panel. It is only secured with clips that allow you to grab and pull straight forward. No screws or anything.

    IMG_2113_7a1756df762352be07ee5864f8088043e28670e3.jpg

    IMG_2114_96857bc3630830303978c2b22f62f4ee029ac695.jpg


    I’m not sure how it happened, but I looked down at my hand and saw this:

    IMG_2318_b424a5b3531052d0ebf417c135579144c5a3c1e0.jpg

    IMG_2316_7230c05b678bec0fd1be394ae384a4c314135aeb.jpg

    Get used to it. This job is a punisher for your hands. The whole weekend I was getting nicks and cuts and this one was opening up bleeding on everything.

    First you have to peel back some of the insulation on the panel. It is glued down in several spots and you just pull it off.

    IMG_2311_e58f0c393e26b2271668451fdaf7e4bd0223dd2f.jpg

    I left it stuck down everywhere I could. You can easily see where the inserts need to come out and you just have to access them. I made cuts in the insulation so I could fold it down where necessary. You can see that on the Left side here:

    IMG_2315_9246a0071e67a25dec36445a709683beeb28f345.jpg


    This process is just like the arm rests. Same technique to remove the panels, put the vinyl over the existing material with the same adhesive, then tug/fold/cut to avoid wrinkles. This is where I really thought putting the inserts right back in the large panel helped to keep things in place as the adhesive dried. Same screws as the armrests too.

    Here is a pic of the insert just after adding the leather:

    IMG_2320_4b8c55ffc76a6a6b0cbd0a5e1022030253f6652d.jpg

    I used the same spray adhesive to tack the insulation back down.

    This part is more forgiving than the arm rests - I’d do it first.


    Jump seat bottoms

    There are two bolts at the front/bottom of the seat that need to be removed. Then the whole seat comes out.

    IMG_2331_e9b4bc6eee29416da67c0c74de8a352eb877fdea.jpg

    Next remove the small plastic tray in each seat and the plastic around the latch at the back. All just Phillips screws.

    IMG_2334_1f9562c59789dd1fdca851bbd7b56a01867066d7.jpg

    The fabric is held in place with plastic seam connectors of some type. If someone knows what they are called let me know and I’ll insert it here.

    Once you find a seam you can pop it open with a screw driver and then it kind of unzips. Some are easier than others.

    IMG_2327_f67af672700f1d2bdb58c7ec2c7d87b4a2437796.jpg

    IMG_2329_581a8f4187261febb70136386647598148fd3a47.jpg

    IMG_2338_3e30f786ab306fa526d6460b4bfafb3ecaec8ee0.jpg

    Eventually you can slip the fabric off the seat, which is just a metal frame and two loose pieces of foam.

    Now to put on the leather (it’s vinyl here too). Doesn't bother me a bit that it's vinyl. I do wish the underside of the seat was not carpet. Part of the reason I'm doing all this is because my copilot is a bit of a shedder. The carpet will hang on to the hair much more than the vinyl. If I were ordering a set for myself, I'd ask if they can use all vinyl instead of the carpet. Not sure if that is possible or not.

    It wasn’t obvious to me at first how to start. But this seems to be the best way to get it going:

    IMG_2339_99dd38fe131befa7d19813b5f89a40b67749ab5b.jpg

    Then get it around the latch mechanism:

    IMG_2340_cab59e4bd1340bd563d1ecf9c6bd3181bf72c372.jpg

    It takes some tugging to get the material around the foam right, but you just have to keep at it.

    IMG_2341_d92ba7f43c885ea8a36bd2547ac5190a3007e7b1.jpg

    Once you have the material in place you zip up the zippers and are almost done.

    IMG_2342_67d579b3fd8fb00c3aef221c6847964748574fd0.jpg


    There is a plastic clip on one side that works just like the ones in the headrest - see below.

    I didn’t have much guidance on putting the little tray back in. It’s important to remember how it goes in and part of it latches under a part of the metal seat frame:

    IMG_2337_722c53320f1c340c936d42f815cb86ed329f8746.jpg

    I cut an X in the vinyl and worked the tray into place. Then gradually enlarge it just enough so that you can get the try latched and screwed into place.

    IMG_2345_6104f3d4d33dfe94e859cc20e582d8444837f4c4.jpg

    IMG_2346_9427d276398c630af2360e344ff1ea2cbd29a229.jpg

    Seat done:

    IMG_2347_9c31ac8cff98a1ed35fc79117992d736f0be4f18.jpg



    Finally the front seats.

    Read Homer Taco’s DIY
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/89333-diy-leather-interior.html

    And this one by HBTacoma:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/77803-diy-leather-install.html

    Now - if you’re new to this - read them again, and again. There’s a lot to think about when you do this. I’m going to try and add some things I found along the way - but most of the info is in there.

    Note: Homer Taco didn’t have a Katzkin kit. There are a couple of differences. Mainly Katzkin doesn’t use most of the metal rods that come out of your fabric. There are plastic rods in the seams already. The only rods you use are the vertical ones.

    Don’t know what a hog ring is? I didn’t either. HBTacoma has a good pic of the pliers and ring in action. Got mine cheap from John Huey. HomerTaco recommends twisting off the rings when you remove your fabric - John suggested I cut them. Both work and I ended up doing whatever was easiest at that particular location.

    Before I took my seats apart, I had trouble imagining what the rings were connecting to in the foam seat. There are small bars in there that are easy to find. They feel like wood to me, but I don’t know what they really are.

    Here are a couple pics:

    IMG_2367_e921aec185aa750d3c110cc0a98527d84e4e263a.jpg

    IMG_2368_675e1392bfeca3c8b57897aa8729f92ab356f697.jpg


    A few things I found helpful:
    I started with the headrests. They have the same plastic clips that are on the jump seat bottoms. John recommended Saran wrap or silicone spray to help the leather fit over the foam. Mine had a small thin plastic bag in there from the factory so I just used it.

    IMG_2348_63f146ce4476832abf617c5e1a60fedbb88ba951.jpg

    It takes some tugging to get the leather over the foam, but eventually it gets there.

    Then you have to kind of invert the plastic clips together to close them. These are the best pics I could get:

    IMG_2349_04a42870caa8fb59125fa093770315b344917131.jpg

    IMG_2350_989b61cc0e2726cc6cbaa9ada19d0a8df572eb12.jpg

    IMG_2351_718c8998e2f6b49775df631a907b5d92c5f38bd0.jpg

    IMG_2352_2652e0ffb40394a306da8504d08112cabd404c59.jpg


    When you do the seats themselves make sure you know put the passenger leather on the passenger seat. The only difference is these metal fittings for a childs seat. John gave me a heads up about this. My leather was marked with a R and L on the inside so it was obvious.

    IMG_2365_e0430273f303b8eb3231a3839c3286c249c269fe.jpg

    I was also alarmed to find these straps/buckles inside my leather:

    photo-2_854afc147c1ef54845c874a9ffd456f4b8eb0c6f.jpg

    John tells me they are for seats with airbags. Since my seats don’t have the bags I just cut them off.


    Don’t forget to add heat. If you’re gonna go to all this trouble you ought to do this as well. The heating elements I got from John seem small. Hopefully they’ll do the trick. They have adhesive on them - peel and stick. I made a slit in the foam for the wiring.

    EDIT: We've had some mornings in the 40s. I've turned on the heat and it seems about the same as cars I've been in with factory heated seats. I'll continue to update on this, but so far seems fine.

    IMG_2369_f8197387ed2343bd6a6d7d0b36787ba335e02ae1.jpg

    I put the bottom heater under my butt. When I sit in my seats now, I think it would be better, if you only have one small element to put it under your thighs on the other part of the seat bottom. I didn’t do this because I worried that the wire passing under the bar would cause problems. I’ll bet you could just run the wire directly through the foam to the bottom of the seat and avoid that all together. If it wasn’t such a hassle to mess with this stuff I’d probably change it. Oh well.

    I plan to put up a DIY on doing my heat and wiring them so they are only available when the ignition is on. Stay tuned.


    More advice from John: just put the leather over the plastic headrest mounts - then cut a hole. He felt like this was easier. I can’t compare methods, but had no problem with this one.

    It’s easy to feel where the plastic part is through the leather. I just cut an “x” and made it a hole. I intended to put some duct tape or something over the plastic to protect it when I was cutting things, but I forgot - both times. It was fine.

    These pics are out of order because some are from each mount on that seat, but you get the idea how you can work the small hole around the plastic and enlarge it, slightly, as needed.

    IMG_2387_da073a7086b4c5b372fd039090a2942d38807870.jpg

    IMG_2388_e689042b644b8106989129438adb88761685cf32.jpg

    IMG_2386_8c34e9c3cb5ab407c8bf102da33cac43fd20a233.jpg

    IMG_2389_9ea9901cf0da692b4bb20f8812957942032d56ab.jpg

    Rolling the leather over the foam is a chore. It seems like it’s not fitting right at the top at first. I found it helped to reach underneath and make sure the seams are all sitting where they are supposed to. As things tighten up it seems to gradually look better.

    The hardest part of the seatback seems to be getting the vertical rod under the correct place in the foam when you put it in. Find that spot on the foam before you put the leather on. Then you know what you’re looking for. I slid the rod up the seam and then reached under the leather to feel where it was going. It took quite a while to get it in the right spot - but you can feel with your finger when it’s there.

    If I remember right, you can see the rod you put it under in this pic. It is at the top left of the pic right at the edge. You will be sliding the long metal rod under this blind.

    IMG_2368_675e1392bfeca3c8b57897aa8729f92ab356f697.jpg

    Once it’s all on you have to put everything back in the truck. I had another wiring project I did, and wired up the seat heaters so my truck was a bit of a disaster zone. Once I got it all sorted out I cleaned the carpet as well as I could. Then put everything back together.

    IMG_2361_5b32eaab1749fca17f23b0cfc34a78a14ecdd54c.jpg

    IMG_2394_a0b914dfab6df99a26fa7a6c1c99b06b1f44f979.jpg

    IMG_2395_34b54cc7f6537710713288e2154120288abe8f12.jpg

    The rear:

    IMG_2397_10cdb28c043a7a2b5e35eaa0a84d3e3fa2a1dea9.jpg

    IMG_2398_f0cb9823bfea05d7082eb2bd21881010efb5e035.jpg


    The front:

    IMG_2407_502025325110a9d628eebf95791293f0326b189a.jpg

    IMG_2409_b887353b6b708c7b29e47f21c0c9ce0cac65ff46.jpg

    IMG_2411_ea54998d7587bdf84515e033214d309ff55d2972.jpg

    IMG_2405_538a4e79e4ca1eaf718cd90427a8c88874d04836.jpg


    I need to take some more pics in better light.

    Everybody says it looks better in person and it is true. The wrinkles are already settling out. The color of my set is Carbon. Seems most are going with the Dk Graphite now. Not sure how the two compare.

    I had an issue with one of my jump seat covers. John and Katzkin are in the process of resolving.

    EDIT: I'm very happy to report the issue was completely resolved to my satisfaction with little, if any, effort on my part. This was mainly due to John. The problem wasn't huge - but clearly one of my Access covers was mis-sewn. Due to my inexperience with these things it took me a while to figure out what was going on. John was accessible and helped me work through things. When I was convinced it was really a problem with the cover he told me to send it his way and he'd get it corrected. His main concern was getting the new piece to me quickly - which he did. His customer service is second to none. If you are thinking of doing this, I highly recommend working with John and Katzkin. This minor issue proved to me they stand behind their product.

    Good Luck...
     
  2. Oct 13, 2011 at 7:01 PM
    #2
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    Someone told me they couldn't see these pics. I see them fine. Can someone post whether or not they are visible to everyone?

    Thanks
     
  3. Oct 13, 2011 at 7:08 PM
    #3
    08PRELB

    08PRELB Don't Tread On Me

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    Nice write up. I can see the pics just fine.
     
  4. Oct 13, 2011 at 8:37 PM
    #4
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    06 SS Mica AC 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    Thanks on both counts.

    TL
     
  5. Oct 14, 2011 at 1:23 AM
    #5
    TacoMX

    TacoMX TW's Official anti body-lift pundit

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    nice job, looks good!!
     
  6. Oct 14, 2011 at 2:29 AM
    #6
    creedler

    creedler Well-Known Member

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    Max
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    Old build in sig
    awesome write up! looks great too. I've never seen a solid dark interior. Most people do inserts for something.
     
  7. Oct 14, 2011 at 5:52 AM
    #7
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    06 SS Mica AC 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    I bought this kit as a clearance deal. If I were buying exactly what I wanted I probably would have done the two tone, perforated centers, etc...

    Now that it's in I'm real happy with it. Not sure I'd change it if I could.

    I'm curious what the dk graphite would look like vs the carbon.

    Regardless- it looks better in person than in the pics. It makes a huge impact on the truck.
     
  8. Oct 14, 2011 at 6:46 AM
    #8
    TroutBum

    TroutBum Well-Known Member

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    Looks really nice. Good work!

    Mike
     
  9. Oct 23, 2011 at 5:52 PM
    #9
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    06 SS Mica AC 4x4 TRD Off-Road
    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires
    Thanks for the positive comments - see my edit at the end about the positive resolution of my minor issue.

    I'll try to post some better pics once now that it's all done.
     
  10. Oct 23, 2011 at 6:27 PM
    #10
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco also HomerTaco Vendor

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    HomerTaco ...................................................................................................................................................... Core-Hurst short throw shifter & T-handle / Carbon Fiber Interior / custom console light / De-badged / leather interior / Heated Front seats / Red Line Hood Struts / Painted speaker grills /one-off TRD Satoshi Grill with 12-15 front-end swap/ Pioneer AVIC-X920BT HU / Scangauge II / Black LED Tails / Dash Mount for iPad mini / Safari Snorkel / Auto-pilot mode / Leer 100XQ Cap / 4x Innovations sliders / Rear Diff Breather Mod / front windows tinted to 35% / Brute Force Fab Hybrid Front Bumper / BAMF Rear Diff Skid / Budbuilt Skids / CBI Trail Master 2.0 rear hybrid bumper / Fox rr coils/ TC UCA's/ TC spindle gussets/ TC Cam Tab gussets / Dakar leafs / Defined Engineering shackles / All pro U bolt flip / Timbren Rear Bumpstops / BAMF LCA skids / Exhaust re-route / Fog Light anytime Mod / LowRange Off Road extended rear brake lines / ATO Shackle Flip / sectioned Bushwhacker flares / re-geared to 4.56 / ARB Front & Rear Locking Diff / ARB CKMA12 compressor / PrInSu full rack system / 1" body lift / Inchworm 4.7 crawlbox / twin stick FJ t-case / Davez off-road triple-stick kit/
    I thought I heard my name....

    Nice job with the write up!


    +1 :D
     
  11. Oct 23, 2011 at 6:50 PM
    #11
    primer

    primer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    (Mostly) debadged, Homelink mirror, Elevated rear diff breather, LED illuminated 4x4 switch, Color matched grill surround, Bed cover, Ivan Stewart wheels, Bridgestone 265/75 Dueler AT Revo 2 tires

    Thanks. +1 back at ya. (pretty sure I've already done that).

    Couldn't have done this mod without your write up.
     
  12. Apr 1, 2012 at 9:17 PM
    #12
    novataco

    novataco Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. This is an excellent write up, especially how you explained the quirks and tricks. I better understand the process and what I am in for. I am doing my access cab shortly and you made my job go much quicker already, and I haven't even touched it yet.
     
  13. Apr 2, 2012 at 8:49 AM
    #13
    jhuey8947

    jhuey8947 Well-Known Member

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    Hey T,
    Great job on this... I don't know how I have missed this til now but I enjoyed reading through it. I appreciate the kind words throughout the thread and am glad to know that you and your co-pilot are enjoying the new skins :thumbsup:

    Thanks again, John
     

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