ABS and Brake warning light on

ya the sensor looks fine that way..no brake fluid or grease/oil there.

 

A little late to the party but I have the same issue with ABS and brake lights stuck on. In my situation, I was in a car accident 2 months ago and the body shop is trying to send me out of the door with these lights on. The collision was in the front passenger side of the truck and they claim the codes point to the back driver wheel, which is outside of their responsibility. I have my service report from 3 months before the accident showing the lights weren't on but these guys are playing hardball. Is it possible that slamming on my brakes and colliding into a car at 35 mph could rattle the sensor or actuator in the back driver wheel?

 

Did they clear the codes and they came back?
During body work they may start and move vehicles with parts missing.
Unless they clear all systems and drive the vehicle there is no way to know if the system is right or another issue. LR WSS code means nothing until this is done. Get the systems cleared and then drive it and go from there..

 

Subbed
Had these lights come on immediately upon firing it up the first time after messing with the fuse box to install the factory 7pin tow package I pulled at the junkyard.
Haven't driven it yet tho cuz I'm going to rig up the rear view camera tomorrow.
So it's definitely not a wheel sensor or harness issue because the lights weren't on when I drove the truck in my garage.
Definitely didn't jump it backwards either. Both abs fuses are fine alsoHopefully clears after driving and isn't my abs actuator or some mystery defect

 

Shoot!

Speedo doesn't work, fuel gauge doesn't work, CEL, ABS and parking brake all illuminated.

Went for short drive and ABS definitely doesn't work.

This sucks

 

Yeup.
Go back and check to make sure you plugged everything back in.
Check all fuses..

I’m assuming you had the battery disconnected while doing this.
Get a test light and turn your key on (engine not running) turn your light s on and check every fuse for power in the engine bay and under dash.
Might want to put a Battery charger on the batt if it’s going to take you a while.
See which part (if any) is dead.
Head in that direction....

 

Already did all of that. Battery is at 12.6V which should be 100% for an AGM type

Edit: I double and triple checked that everything is plugged back in and that I didn't kink or tear any wires...

I think I may have shorted something tho when I used my test light to find the reverse trigger feed because the CEL and fuel gauge stuff just happened today. Accidentally touched two pins in a connector. ID2 connector. Jumped the reverse signal (top left spot) with the one right next to it.

But ABS, parking brake and speedo were already kaput

 

CEL is off now and fuel gauge reads again.
ABS and parking brake still on solid and no speedo, obviously no cruise control either.
Truck doesn't react to jumping obd pins 4 & 13 at all. What the fuck

Edit. Blower Fan and AC/heat not working either and CEL came right back on

 

Your issue sure sounds like a blown fuse. Did you check all your fuses including the ones to the left of the steering wheel? I had a similar thing happen with my dash lights. Assuming you’ve got 2nd gen

 

Yeah it's a second gen. All the fuses have been visibly checked and aren't broken. The ones I suspected I even switched out yet nothing... argggh

 

@Tacoma Mike
What I did was change the alternator fuse from 120 to 140amp,
Add the 100amp Power inverter fuse, wires and relay,
Add towing brake fuse and wire
Add battery charging fuse, relay and wires,
Added Towing tail light fuse and relay. Everything went where it belongs as if the truck had the 7pin towing package from the factory.
Of course the battery was disconnected, removed it from the truck actually to gain room because I had to take out the fuse box tray so I could insert the wires and terminals from underneath into the fuse holders.

 

So you double checked all fuses have power.

Not trying to scare you however. Abs light on, no speedo, shorting something out indicates a reason for me to start checking all codes to get a handle on the health of your vehicle.
The abs module is fragile... you get speedo signal from the abs. You can throw a cel for no speedo signal.
I would suggest you stop right now and have the truck scanned before you waste anymore time.

 

Yessir, I'm not even at home. It's in my garage where I don't have to look at it. My code reader doesn't do body only engine ECU so I have to take it to a shop on Monday to get it scanned. If I had to bet I'd say ABS module is toast. Just don't understand why my AC/heat/blower fan doesn't work either. The recirc light still lights up but the AC one doesn't and the compressor doesn't kick in either
All fuses are good and have power... Fuaaack

 

You didn’t pull relays and put them in the wrong spot did ya?
Seen it more than once..
I know the answer is probably no but I’m cycling through diagnostics in my head.
I see smoke so I’ll stop for now. Lol.

 

I appreciate your input man! Really do.
I did pull relays and jumped 30 & 87 on the battery charge and inverter relays to test them because I couldn't get power to the coil at first but I'm 100% sure that they went back where they belong. Some you can swap, pretty much all the little blue 4pin relays are the same

My dome light is working so the IGN1 no2 fuse must be fine. I didn't test the other fuses with a meter yet only visibly and made sure power is there with a test light

 

@Tacoma Mike
I tried to get the codes by jumping pins 4 & 13 in the OBD port and turned Key to on but the parking brake and ABS lights just stay solid and don't flash like they're supposed to...
Did I fry my ECU? Truck also doesn't run great but that could be because it has to relearn after disconnecting the battery for so long and changing the alternator fuse.

FYI for anyone with a bad module. Most can be rebuilt. Check out the company module masters. I sent them the ABS module from my wife's old Jetta after VW quoted me $2000 for that POS. Worked great after I got it back from them. If this turns out to be my problem that's what I'll do but I have a feeling a boogered something else up somehow because I definitely didn't jump my truck backwards. Didn't jump it at all actually...

 

Yea I’m leaning that way but until you get the codes......
It will run rough on a batt. disconnect for a while...

Fuel gauge is not part of the abs or check engine. It maybe the result of something else.
I’m just hoping you didn’t take out the Main Body Ecu.
One step at a time...

 

Fuel gauge works fine again but CEL came back after driving just one block.

How you gonna get the codes if the OBD plug doesn't respond? The fuse for it is fine but I've jumped those pins before to check my transmission fluid level so I know what's supposed to happen...

 

A scan tool will tell you if the ecu is responding.
If it is not then you need to run a power and ground circuit test. If those show ok then the ecu is pooched.

 

I had something similar happen to my motorhome. I didn’t do a damn thing just went to start it one day and nothing. I could hear fuel pump cycle for just a brief second and it would just crank crank crank but no fire. Had a friend (mechanic) look at it and he never figured it out. I kept saying “wonder if it’s the computer” and he kept saying these things never fail. Sure enough it needed a new computer. I know there’s no relevance to your situation but I guess I’m just trying to reassure you that whatever it is it can be fixed. Motorhome at a storage yard limited tools, disconnect drive shaft to have it towed to dealer to program Ecu etc.... ultimately it got fixed.