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Bad Door Lock Actuators?

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Old 07-29-2012, 02:43 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Has anyone confirmed that this is the correct motor? Also, are the front and rears the same?

I tore apart my door lock assembly, cleaned the motor out and it actually started working for a couple weeks! I got excited too early because now it's dead as a doornail. I've got 2 that are dead so I'd rather buy 2 $5 motors vs. 2 $200 door lock assemblies.

Edit: I already ordered 2 so I'll find out if they fit soon enough.
Lemme know how you make out, I have a dead pass. door lock and I too am looking to fix it cheap.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb11701 View Post
Lemme know how you make out, I have a dead pass. door lock and I too am looking to fix it cheap.
Will do, they should be here shortly and I'll try to tear it apart next weekend.
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb11701 View Post
Lemme know how you make out, I have a dead pass. door lock and I too am looking to fix it cheap.
The motors I bought off Ebay weren't the correct ones. The motor itself is the same but the output shaft is different which prevents you from inserting it into the actuator unit the same way the old one came out.

The one I bought off Ebay had a short, round shaft. The one on the truck has a long shaft that is split length-wise (so that when you slide the worm gear onto it, it can't spin freely on the round shaft).

I kept searching Ebay and I can't seem to find one that fits. If I do, I'll let you know.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:04 PM   #24
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Thumbs up Worked!

I had a dead Driver's side door actuator. Took apart the door and pulled out the motor as described in the earlier posts. Cleaned up the contacts in the electric motor, put her back together, and everything is working perfect. Great post; thanks for the info to everyone that contributed!
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:00 AM   #25
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Did you take any pictures of the motor and shaft or find any numbers stamped on it. I found another site that has some motors http://store.kysanelectronics.com/se...les/Categories

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
The motors I bought off Ebay weren't the correct ones. The motor itself is the same but the output shaft is different which prevents you from inserting it into the actuator unit the same way the old one came out.

The one I bought off Ebay had a short, round shaft. The one on the truck has a long shaft that is split length-wise (so that when you slide the worm gear onto it, it can't spin freely on the round shaft).

I kept searching Ebay and I can't seem to find one that fits. If I do, I'll let you know.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:09 AM   #26
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I had all 4 doors replaced in my 09 because they all shit the bed.
Driver side was first shortly after the pass side did the same.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:12 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bookmonke View Post
Did you take any pictures of the motor and shaft or find any numbers stamped on it. I found another site that has some motors http://store.kysanelectronics.com/se...les/Categories
I didn't but the motors I bought had the same stamp on them as the OEM ones. The only difference between the motor I bought and the OEM motor was the shaft.

FC-280PC-22125 Mabuchi Motor was the description. It's the right motor, wrong output shaft.

I must not have posted back since but I was able to get the actuators working. I tore apart the old motor completely, cleaned out all the carbon buildup using a spray type electrical cleaner and a rag (made by the same company who makes Brakleen, red and white can available at autozone), reassembled and everything works like new.

From your site:
http://store.kysanelectronics.com/se...h-22125/Detail
It's the correct motor, but again, wrong output shaft.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:53 AM   #28
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Good thread everyone (bringing it back!). Going to be tackling this in the next week or so. My driver side wet out a few years ago and then started working again, but about 5 months ago it stopped. Will pop it open and give it a good clean.

Is there a way to seal the actuator up so no more dirtyness inside? Did any of you slather dielectric grease inside?
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amo-cat3 View Post
Good thread everyone (bringing it back!). Going to be tackling this in the next week or so. My driver side wet out a few years ago and then started working again, but about 5 months ago it stopped. Will pop it open and give it a good clean.

Is there a way to seal the actuator up so no more dirtyness inside? Did any of you slather dielectric grease inside?
The dirtiness is coming from inside the motor so sealing it up won't help. I did not slather on dielectric grease but mine are working fine again after tearing the motor down and giving it a good cleaning with CRC Electric Cleaner.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #30
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Bringing this one back-

Well I went to pull my drivers side lock actuator out to see if I could clean it up and get it to work again, but......

I lined my doors with sound deadner a couple of years ago when i did my stereo install and I covered any access to the lock actuator. I wasn't about to go ripping off the butyl rattle trap I used so I'm going to have to live with a manual driver side door lock.

Just FYI for any of you that's going to install sound deadener on your doors. If you gotta get to the inside of your door your in for pain in the ass work..
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by RichieW13 View Post
I suppose I should mention that I used the tips offered in that Rav 4 thread posted above. I took the motor out and apart and cleaned it with electrical parts cleaner. I am having trouble with the door opening portion, but it appears that the part that LOCKS and UNLOCKS the door is now working properly.
7 months later, the left rear door has stopped working.

My truck is 4-5 years old, and has about 50,000 miles on it. It sure seems like this should work longer.

The worst thing about newer cars with all the bells and whistles (automatic windows, heated seats, keyless entry, etc.) is that all of these things seem to quit working at some point.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:46 PM   #32
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It has to be that toyota is using inferior parts now days. However, I think door lock actuators in general seem to go quickly. Unfortunately, besides opening up the non working actuator and trying to fix it there is no cheap aftermarket option. $220 for a replacement one is ridiculous. We should see if we can find a company here in the US that can make an aftermarket actuator that will fit our trucks, get a group buy going, cuz I'm sure a lot of people would jump on this.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amo-cat3 View Post
It has to be that toyota is using inferior parts now days.
I don't think Toyota is the only perpetrator. My Grand Cherokee had the heated seats go out, and also had the same door lock problem. Although with that one it was the actual motor that went bad and had to be replaced.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amo-cat3 View Post
It has to be that toyota is using inferior parts now days. However, I think door lock actuators in general seem to go quickly. Unfortunately, besides opening up the non working actuator and trying to fix it there is no cheap aftermarket option. $220 for a replacement one is ridiculous. We should see if we can find a company here in the US that can make an aftermarket actuator that will fit our trucks, get a group buy going, cuz I'm sure a lot of people would jump on this.
Why would people jump on a group buy? If someone is going to go through the hassle of tearing open the door to pull the actuator out, they might as well spend an extra 5 minutes to clean up the motor and have it work like new for free rather than replace the part. The hardest part is getting damned thing out of the door! At least for me it was, I have fat hands.
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Why would people jump on a group buy? If someone is going to go through the hassle of tearing open the door to pull the actuator out, they might as well spend an extra 5 minutes to clean up the motor and have it work like new for free rather than replace the part. The hardest part is getting damned thing out of the door! At least for me it was, I have fat hands.
Yeah, taking it out is a pain - especially dealing with the vapor liner. But cracking the mechanism open and cleaning it and getting the linkage together isn't the easiest thing either.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:49 PM   #37
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My 08 front driver door lock actuator started failing a couple weeks ago.
I took it out and partially disassembled it yesterday.
The small clips around the edges were the worst part. My fingernails are still separated from my fingers.
I didn't want to remove the motor from the assembly without doing some research first. I did notice some darkening inside the commutator/brush end of the motor.
I reinstalled the assembly. I will wait until next weekend to attempt motor removal and cleaning.

Questions:
On the 08 actuator, is the motor soldered or does it simply pull out of the assembly? I will know this coming weekend - barring more rain.
The white grease inside the actuator, is it a lithium-based grease?
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:17 PM   #38
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Get a pick set from Harbor Freight, Sears or any other store that sells tools. They make pulling the motor apart much easier.

On my 2007, the motor is not soldered in. I'd imagine it's the same on your 2008. As far as the grease, I didn't mess with it, I just put everything back together and called it a day.
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:17 PM   #39
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The small clips around the edges were the worst part. My fingernails are still separated from my fingers.
Oh yeah, I remember that. My fingertips hurt for 2 days.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #40
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My actuators are working but I had the same issue with 06 Lexus GS.
ClubLexus has a write up also.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-s...ators-diy.html
What I ended up was opening up the motor, cleaning and swapping the guts out with the new motor.
All the black carbon was worn out so it wasn't making a good contact.
The gear on the shaft is suggest to get a RC gear puller to remove and replace on the new shaft which I didn't have.
Been working for the last four years.
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