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Bad Door Lock Actuators?

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Old 05-16-2013, 03:54 PM   #61
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I used to run electric R/C cars. Those motors where rebuildable until you toasted the armature, which are of similar design.

How did the brushes look in yours? Did you take pics?
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Old 05-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilBetty View Post
I used to run electric R/C cars. Those motors where rebuildable until you toasted the armature, which are of similar design.

How did the brushes look in yours? Did you take pics?
Everything looked fine, I cleaned it out really well with CRC Electrical cleaner and put everything back together. I can take them back apart and take pictures if you think it'll come back to life. It will move the lever a bit, just won't actually cycle the lock. I took it apart a second time to make sure I had everything inside the actuator assembled correctly and nothing was catching. I also checked the cables to make sure they were moving freely within the casings.

What's involved in a 'rebuild' of one of these electric motors? Better yet, do you know where I can find just a new motor with the correct output shaft?
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:10 PM   #63
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Glad I found this. My driver door unit shit the bed a couple weeks ago. I know what I'm doing this Saturday...

Good news: Already have some contact cleaner, so no need to buy!
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:55 PM   #64
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I meant to write down the number on the motor case and look for a source but forgot until after I had it back in the door.

I didn't pay attention to how servicable the motor was when I had it apart.

R/C motors are a bit more user friendly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8nCM9yuI-4
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:26 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilBetty View Post
I meant to write down the number on the motor case and look for a source but forgot until after I had it back in the door.

I didn't pay attention to how servicable the motor was when I had it apart.

R/C motors are a bit more user friendly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8nCM9yuI-4
Yeah, the Toyota motors are a more of a pain to service. The brushes on the actuator motor are like 1/4 the size of the ones in your video, they're tiny! When I get mine apart again, I'll get the part number on the motor. I did find a motor with the same part number, looked the same and everything, but the output shaft was different. The output shaft on the motor I bought was round, the one on the Toyota motor is a half circle so the screw gear will slide onto the shaft.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:38 PM   #66
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here
Mine said
Quote:
VD297427
made in Vietnam
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:07 PM   #68
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This was awesome! Just repaired both driver and passenger side actuators. The dealer quoted me $500/door to replace them! THANKS!
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:24 PM   #69
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anyone have a picture of the inside of the rear actuators?
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:45 PM   #70
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Smile

Just finished passenger door on 06. Working great. Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:21 AM   #71
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Great thread. Awesome site! Saved me a $1000.
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:13 AM   #72
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Intermittent

I had this issue with my driver-side door last year and eventually found this thread. Opened the actuator as described and decided to test the motor before opening the motor itself. Removed the motor and attached it to a 9v battery. It spun freely. I put it back into the assembly and attached the 9v battery wires, switched polarity and again it worked in both directions.
Reinstalled the actuator in the truck and it worked fine for the next 11 months.
The problem resurfaced 2 months ago and last week it suddenly started working, first intermittently then constantly without any intervention ( I can still hear the motor struggle).
Now the issue has surfaced on the driver rear door (intermittently).

This leads me to question whether the motor is receiving 12v power or less (if my 9v worked without issue).
Did the 9v power grind through the carbon buildup?

Truly disappointing that I may eventually have to tear into the vapor barrier on all my doors.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:40 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Networktcp View Post
This leads me to question whether the motor is receiving 12v power or less (if my 9v worked without issue).
My first guess was that under normal usage the motor is NOT on long enough to allow the brushes to sufficiently 'clean' the commutator bars.
Eventually, the small amounts of comm-bar burning (carbon deposit) accumulates and the connection between brush and comm-bar is compromised.

So much for using a motor where a simple solenoid would work!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Networktcp View Post
Did the 9v power grind through the carbon buildup?
Yes, I would think so.
The motor on-time with the 9v applied was enough to allow the brushes to 'scour' the carbon from the comm-bars.

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Originally Posted by Networktcp View Post
Truly disappointing that I may eventually have to tear into the vapor barrier on all my doors.
I tried to cut the soft-set adhesive, leaving a bit on the door and a bit on the barrier film and used it as a template for reattaching the barrier.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:46 PM   #74
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When I put mine back together, I must have put let some of the white levers in the housing slip. Now I have a door that can't "sense" when it's locked or not.

Every time I close my door with the key in the ignition, the door does a double unlock. Also my lights only flash when the passenger door is unlocked, not the driver.

Haven't felt like tearing it all back apart again to check. The worst part was getting into that housing without breaking anything. Wish someone who is good at it would post a good video on opening and closing the housing.
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Old 12-12-2013, 02:59 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
Yeah, the Toyota motors are a more of a pain to service. The brushes on the actuator motor are like 1/4 the size of the ones in your video, they're tiny! When I get mine apart again, I'll get the part number on the motor. I did find a motor with the same part number, looked the same and everything, but the output shaft was different. The output shaft on the motor I bought was round, the one on the Toyota motor is a half circle so the screw gear will slide onto the shaft.
good thing i read this before buying those motors on ebay. what if you were to try and shave the shaft down to a half circle? possible?

Also did you attempt to see if the motor itself worked granted you were somehow able to get the gear on?
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:56 PM   #76
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Well my drivers side front door actuator just went out on me. Only 48,000 miles on my 2010 taco. I also had my blower motor changed out 2 times by the dealer and the radio changed out once. I love my truck but these ticky tacky things are bs. I never had any problems with my 2003. I had 80k on that baby before I sold it. Thanks for all the info peeps have posted on this subject, I'll be looking into fixing this issue after Christmas! Merry Christmas everyone!
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:23 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eskamo23 View Post
Well my drivers side front door actuator just went out on me. Only 48,000 miles on my 2010 taco. I also had my blower motor changed out 2 times by the dealer and the radio changed out once. I love my truck but these ticky tacky things are bs. I never had any problems with my 2003. I had 80k on that baby before I sold it. Thanks for all the info peeps have posted on this subject, I'll be looking into fixing this issue after Christmas! Merry Christmas everyone!
Sounds like the bean counters have conquered engineering!
I cannot say that I dislike my taco, but I NEVER had any trouble (other than self-inflicted) with the other toyos that I have owned!
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:56 PM   #79
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Haven't had this problem with the Taco but it happened on the 05 4runner. Toyota replaced all of the actuators and it was covered under the 100,000 mile warranty for $50 deductible. That was $800 saved.
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:24 PM   #80
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I've got 25k miles on mine and just in the last 3 weeks the front drivers side door has been acting up. Thought it was remote so i swapped remotes and same thing. When i click the remote twice the rear doors lock with remote but not drivers door. But It sounds like it locks because I can hear it click just like the others. Also the dome light comes on right after i try to lock them with remote (i guess letting me know that the door isn't locked)? I think i should be able to get it taken care of under warranty.
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