Yea...give it a shot. If, like me, and your taco is fairly new - I will bet you
that you can fix it. Its takes time to not mess up the actuator dissassembly - After removing it from truck and putting it on bench - you need
to remove a series of screws that hold the top and bottom of the casing together. The part that actually latches the door shut (plastic and heavy metal) gets removed carefully (cut or peel foam weather stripping if holding it together)..it just pops out to the side as a single assembly. Then you have to unsnap a bunch of clip points to separate the top and bottom shell - do this slowly and carefully - there are a few linkages that
can get skewed - but pretty easy to find where to put them back if you have to (look of wear or 'black' points of contacts where white greese is gone) and open on a flat surface. Once open - you will see gears, some linkage, and a little DC motor not much different that what you woould see
in motorized kids toys. STOP - take a few pictures of the internals - its good insurance in case you are confused when putting back together...
ok - you may now proceed...
For the front actuators - carefully push the two metal contact bars back just behind the motor - then carefully with a very small screw driver pop the motor out. If the contacts are below the motor (will not see them until the motor is removed - you are home free - just pop out the motor. With motor out - slide the worm gear off the end of the shaft. Looking from the back of the motor - you will see where they
crimped the metal casing around the plastic housing block to hold the motor together. Get a small screw drive and slowly (AND CAREFULLY) press the metal on both sides of the motor so they are no longer crimping the metal and plastic motor casing together. Slowly work the metal and plastic halfs apart. The shaft have the larger section calll the armature and at the other end (the end that came out of the plastic side - there will be a much smalled copper colored area (that will be all coated with what looks like burnt on carbon - this is called the commutator and is where two small contacts (brushes) in the plastic housing transfer electricity to the windings in the armature and make the motor spin. This
carbon is what has either killed your motor or is in the process of killing it as no juice can get to the windings and make the motor spin. You will
need to carefully clean the carbon off the commutator. I used a thin strip
of fine (600 or higher grit) sandpaper which is wrapped around the commutator. Be careful not to nick the little copper wires running up to the armature. turn the shaft assy so that it 'resurfaces' the copper surface of the commutator and makes it shiny like a new penny again. Cleaning most of the carbon buildup off is enough - you do not
have to nor do I suggest removing material for the purpose of cleaning off every last trace of carbon. When done - blow the dust off commutator and proceed to carefully reassemble the motor. Slow insert the shaft back into the plastic housing with the commutator end first. The commutator
will butt into the the pair of brushes - just wiggle and twist the shaft a bit and it will pop the brushes up onto the commutator surface where they belong. Now slip the metal casing end onto the other side of the shaft - but hang onto the armature and plastic housing - as the strong magnetic
pull of the armature will pull the commutator end right out of the plastic housing and you will have to start assumbly over. When back together - you need to re crimp the motor halfs together. I opened my bench vice about 1/4 an inch, stood the motor up with the plastic end up and front shaft point to the floor - then took a straight slot screwdriver and
gently taped it with a balll peen hammer just enough to push the metal
crimps back over the slot in the plastic housing - just as it was before taking it apart. With this complete - you can test your motor with a 12 VDC source if you want to be sure it works - but that should not be a problem if you were careful with cleaning the commutator and reassembling. Now slide worm gear back all the way onto motor shaft until it stops - snap motor back into actuator shell and make sure two metal contact bars make good contact with contacts on motor. Look at linkage assembly to make sure everything looks in order - refer back to pictures if unsure. Carefully snap the top shell back onto the actuator so clips are secure. Snap metal lock assembly back into the side. Replace screws and then exercize the linkage arm that connected to the cable for the door lever - check to make sure there is no binding and that side lock bolt where the lock grabs the look hoop on the door fram opening. If you
feel good about its operation - reinstall the actuator, connecting cable linkages first, then bold it back into the door, reconnect rod linkages, window tracks, power connector plug ..STOP....Check window
to make sure it goes up and down without binding and check door locking mechanism to make sure actuator works and all linkages behave as expected. If happy - button up the rest of the way and go buy yourself something nice with the $400 you saved from NOT having the dealer replace it (might I suggest a nice Winchester shotgun!) - if not working properly - dont panic - you can get it right - check all linkages to make sure connected to actuator properly. If not the problem - remove the actuator (consider this practice - the taco actuators are problemmatic
and you will likely be replacing others in the future) Take it to the bench, open it back up - and look carefully at whats going on in there - you'll figure it out if you just patiently play with it for a bit. If your motor was dead after reassembly - you have the choice to go buy a whole actuator
assembly from the stealership or just buy a new little DC motor - there are places that sell them on the web and ebay
for about $5 a piece...its up to you my friend. Best case scenario - your truck and locks are all fixed and you can drink beer. Worst case is that you learned more about how your truck is put together and you have to buy that actuator you figured you have to anyways. If the latter is the case - no foul....have some beer!