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How to Change a CV Axle on an 01-04 ADD Tacoma

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Old 01-14-2011, 03:22 PM   #21
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hmm anyone can link to a video of "prying" a CV out of the diff? Sounds intimidating to me.. just want to know what to expect..
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #22
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Only my Ranger I used a pry bar between the inner cup and diff. There is no way I would just tug on a CV to get it out.
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:15 PM   #24
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It will make life a LOT easier...i promise
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:40 PM   #25
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Nice write-up! For anyone that's interested, here are the torque specifications.

Hub nut: 174 ft-lbs
Lower ball joint mounting nuts: 59 ft-lbs
Lug nuts: 83 ft-lbs
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:24 PM   #26
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I'm skeered to take my skids off on Thursday when I do this. Who knows what will be living within it
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:30 PM   #27
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Thanks Jeff,

I used this as my guide today to change my driver side.

I ran into a couple of issues. But, they were 100% my doing. Manual hub got a little dinged up. Took me way to long to to get the axle out. I could not find a good pry point so I just whacked the bar with some frustration and out it came.

I'll be changing the passenger tomorrow and its a must to remove the skids if you have Bud Builts.
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Old 01-14-2012, 02:37 PM   #28
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Just wanted to mention that my hub nut was a 35mm.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve o 77 View Post
Just wanted to mention that my hub nut was a 35mm.
Mine was as well.
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:13 PM   #30
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It seems that the nut size varies from year to year
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Old 01-14-2012, 07:14 PM   #31
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Yeah I've been seeing lots of different answers.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:47 AM   #32
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Getting ready to do mine. Dealership wants $520. O'reillys has them for $70 a piece with no core charge, new, lifetime warranty. Hope everything goes well!

What does the ADD stand for?

Correction, that dealership wanted $520 just to re-boot the thing. For new axles it was an additional $700 per side!

Edit: Took a good look at it myself and found that the dealership grossly over exaggerated the damage "spewing grease everywhere".
Turns out to be very small cuts. I'm planning on putting some more grease in and sealing it up with either a marine epoxy or shoe glue.
That way I can keep my OEM's and ride.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:04 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rastamanty View Post
Getting ready to do mine. Dealership wants $520. O'reillys has them for $70 a piece with no core charge, new, lifetime warranty. Hope everything goes well!

What does the ADD stand for?
Automatic Differential Disconnect.

I did both sides last month. First side took 4 hours second side took 1 hour. Hardest part for me was removing the cap without damaging it and knowing how much force to use to remove the axle. Ending up just smacking the crap out of it with a crow bar and a BFH.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:07 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonyd182 View Post
Automatic Differential Disconnect.

I did both sides last month. First side took 4 hours second side took 1 hour. Hardest part for me was removing the cap without damaging it and knowing how much force to use to remove the axle. Ending up just smacking the crap out of it with a crow bar and a BFH.
I did the same, except instead of a crow bar, I took an old flat head screw driver and took my angle grinder to it to make it nice and thin. Used a BFH and that and it worked well lol
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:20 PM   #35
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I changed the CV axle on my 2001 Tacoma today and used this thread as a guide. It was very helpful, everything was pretty close to what was posted. One thing that wasn't the same tho was a metal piece at the upper end of the axle that goes up to the differential kinda like another seal or spacer. It didn't come with my new one tho so I was just wondering if I did the right thing since I took it off the old one and put it on with the new one. The axle went in good, but it is leaking a few drops after I put it all back in. Quite a bit of diff oil came out when I was changing it so I'm hoping that is the reason why and not that I used the metal seal (spacer).
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:08 AM   #36
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What brand was the new axle?
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:05 AM   #37
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Its a duralast from Auto Zone. It was only 59 bucks which is why i got it. I know theres mixed reviews on em but it is a lifetime warranty, and beat the 240 toyota wanted. I hope it doesnt bite me in the ass. I did "reseat" into the diff this am so we'll see it that seals it up if not I'm gonna be SOL.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:13 PM   #38
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So I re did the whole installation and the axle has about an 1/8 of an inch of play in and out of the differential. I don't know why this is happening? Does anybody have an idea? Could it be because the cv axle I bought is not a genuine toyota part?
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitmaster View Post
So I re did the whole installation and the axle has about an 1/8 of an inch of play in and out of the differential. I don't know why this is happening? Does anybody have an idea? Could it be because the cv axle I bought is not a genuine toyota part?
That is normal as far as I can tell. Every single CV axle I've replaced had a bit of play in it out of the diff.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:09 PM   #40
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Very good Write-up, will using in the near future!
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