One click and no start: Starter has been rebuilt then replaced and still no go

That is an excellent idea, I'll get someone to hold the probes between the battery when I hit the alarm. I will let you know how it goes. Just to put it out there, thanks to all you guys who have been responding and helping out, I really appreciate it.

 

If you started it up and drove it that first day, and it sat overnight and drained I would say you need to pull your alternator and run down and have it tested!! To me it sounds like your alternator is draining you battery. And if it was actually coming from your alarm...it would take a lot longer to deplete your BRAND NEW battery. Definitely not overnight.
Just my .02

Good luck with it!

 

Put it on a trickle charger, get it load tested. Like real load tested. Battery should be above 12.4 volts before you load test it. If you trickle charge make sure to knock off any surface charge before you actually load test it, try leaving your brights on, engine off, for about 30 secs. If it gasses or gets really hot when charging it's sulfated and probably bad. Should hold above 9.6v at 1/2 cold cranking amps for 15 secs @ 70 degrees. If it doesn't and you had it fully charged well then not all failed yet but ...
"wait ten minutes, and measure the State-of-Charge. If the battery bounces back to less than 75% State-of-Charge (1.225 specific gravity or 12.45 VDC), then recharge the battery and load test again. If the battery fails the load test a second time or bounces back to less than 75% State-of-Charge, then replace the battery because it lacks the necessary CCA capacity."

Basically load test it a few times.

You can also take your negative lead and hook it up and then drag the positive lead across the top of the battery case, if it's really dirty sometimes you can get a parasitic draw that way. Then look up how to do a voltage drop test and test on your starter and your alternator on both positive and the ground leads.


Also see if this is of any use.

http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

 

Oh new battery... some of that still applies. Are you sure the new battery was fully charged? Are you sure it's a good battery. Don't just assume.

I'm just saying I'd still start with the basics.

 

It's possible one of the alternator diodes has failed and leaks current...
My experienced mechanics learned about this on one of my former cars. The standard alternator tests were fine so they thought it was the charging regulator, but that didn't solve the problem. Only after removing and testing the alternator diodes separately was the problem correctly analyzed. These mechanics, now retired, were so honest they reinstalled my old charging regulator and replaced the alternator diodes for a total two day cost of $23.

 

Did Sears load test your charging system and the alternator belt tension? A 50 ma parasitic load will not drain a fully charged healthy battery overnight. At 77 degrees F and with the surface charge removed, a fully charged battery will read at least 12.65 VDC with a digital voltmeter.