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2012 Radar Detector Hardwire

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by 2Low8, Oct 15, 2012.

  1. Oct 15, 2012 at 6:50 PM
    #1
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Hey guys,

    Searched for this but couldn't find an exact answer. I'm going to be picking up a 2012 w/ the newer autodim mirror (the one with homelink). Are there any differences in wiring behind the sunglasses holder for 12V and ground between the 2012 and earlier models with the regular autodim mirrors? I've hardwired my last two cars rather painlessly and don't want to be screwing with the wiring on a new truck.

    I saw this thread: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/47449-radar-detector-hardwire-easy-instructions.html

    Is the wiring color coded differently on the 2012 or is it the same?

    Thanks yall
     
  2. Oct 15, 2012 at 6:54 PM
    #2
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    Id use a add a fuse. Run from dash on drivers side through a pillar cover.Ground on bolt for airbag. Then use card board to shove up under headliner then run down inside mirror cover.
     
  3. Oct 15, 2012 at 6:56 PM
    #3
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    This is what I did. Used empty fuse slot that only had power with ignition. That way I didn't cut any wires. And I could take out easily if I sold truck. Btw used a 7.5 amp fuse
     
  4. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:05 PM
    #4
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Which empty slots are power with ignition? Thanks in advance for your help.
     
  5. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:12 PM
    #5
    Mescalero

    Mescalero Beretta Taco

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    Thats a long run methinks. I looked into doing that too with mine, but ended up saving those slots for hardwiring my satellite radio and another accessory since they were closer.

    i did a self-stripping tap connector which was a little less intrusive and more reversible on the rearview mirror, but mines a '10 and not '12.
     
  6. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:13 PM
    #6
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    behind change holder middle row 2nd from the left
     
  7. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:14 PM
    #7
    fletch aka

    fletch aka www.BeLikeBrit.org

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    This ^^
     
  8. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:16 PM
    #8
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the help everyone. The quick tap has worked well for me in the past but I want to do it right with this truck. It seems the fuse tap is the best option.
     
  9. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:19 PM
    #9
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Also, if anyone has a picture of the fuse box with the fuse added it would be much appreciated. I'm not what one would call an electrician.
     
  10. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:30 PM
    #10
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    Part you needhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Cooper-Bussmann-ATM-fuse-tap-converts-one-into-two-fusible-circuits-10-Amps-maximum-on-added-circuit/_/N-25gq?itemIdentifier=32416&_requestid=1036434
     
  11. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:35 PM
    #11
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    I used a 2.5 amp fuse
     
  12. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:37 PM
    #12
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    So wait 7.5 amp or 2.5 amp?
     
  13. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:42 PM
    #13
    monsterkx2fiddy

    monsterkx2fiddy Well-Known Member

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    Check your radar. Mine draws 2.3 so o used 2.5
     
  14. Oct 15, 2012 at 7:53 PM
    #14
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Does anyone happen to know the right amp fuse for a Beltronics STi Driver?
     
  15. Oct 27, 2012 at 10:42 PM
    #15
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Well-Known Member

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  16. Oct 28, 2012 at 9:40 AM
    #16
    2Low8

    2Low8 [OP] Active Member

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    Thank you sir. Nice thread there.
     

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