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Old 09-11-2013, 11:18 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
x2, my wife's car takes 0W-20, I've been using 5W-20 so far.
My take on those things always was you can go lower on first number and higher on second.
so if your car calls for 5w-30 you can use 0W-40 but not 10w-30 nor 0W-20 unless you will run this only in cold weather.
First number is what allows cold starts so if it is too high, oil pump may have too hard time pumping it through system. Second number is there for high temp run.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:26 AM   #42
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A good brand 30 weight is much better than a 20.

0, 5,or 10w is just modifiers added to the oil so that pours equivalently to that weight of an oil when the oil is cold.

Just look for brands that say "high antiwear additives" on the back.

This original topic can easily get derailed on a discussion of oils and weights. So let's keep it simple. Dont use a 20 weight (which is weight and not the 1st number in the pair. Which is the modified flow number ex 5w-20)

The higher the weight the higher thermal resistance and cushion against mechanical shock. Hard acceleration and high rpm stress and heat up oil. To thin an oil and the lower its thermal resistance. (Probably not the exact science term, but you get the point) Basically lower boiling point. Low antiwear additive count and low thermal efficiency and it is much easier to have the oil fail at preventing metal to metal contact. Then comes fail bearings and seized engines.

Ridiculously long drain intervals, especially those when people don't change the filter AND don't have their oil quality tested after "X" amount of mile to ensure it is still ok, is also going to cause breakdown of the oil and sludge build-up. As well as internal wear. Thus another failed engine.

Low oil will always cause rod knock in these engines because by the time the oil level is to low and the light comes on, the damage is already done. Especially with the shallow oil pan design that is on XR's and some PreRunners.

I will only run a 30 weight if it is from Redline, Eneos, Motul or Brad Penn, and if it comes with a minimum of 1500ppm ZDDP or I add my own ZDDP in. I actually never go below a 40 weight, and still add in Redline Engine Break-in oil. As of the last race at MSR, I still have 5w-50 in there, and Redline Engine Break-in oil.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:46 AM   #43
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so in your opinion, is running 40-50 wt oil in a stock engine a good preventative measure, or is it a waste? since obviously your application is a little different than most...
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:49 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
A good brand 30 weight is much better than a 20.

0, 5,or 10w is just modifiers added to the oil so that pours equivalently to that weight of an oil when the oil is cold.

Just look for brands that say "high antiwear additives" on the back.

This original topic can easily get derailed on a discussion of oils and weights. So let's keep it simple. Dont use a 20 weight (which is weight and not the 1st number in the pair. Which is the modified flow number ex 5w-20)

The higher the weight the higher thermal resistance and cushion against mechanical shock. Hard acceleration and high rpm stress and heat up oil. To thin an oil and the lower its thermal resistance. (Probably not the exact science term, but you get the point) Basically lower boiling point. Low antiwear additive count and low thermal efficiency and it is much easier to have the oil fail at preventing metal to metal contact. Then comes fail bearings and seized engines.

Ridiculously long drain intervals, especially those when people don't change the filter AND don't have their oil quality tested after "X" amount of mile to ensure it is still ok, is also going to cause breakdown of the oil and sludge build-up. As well as internal wear. Thus another failed engine.

Low oil will always cause rod knock in these engines because by the time the oil level is to low and the light comes on, the damage is already done. Especially with the shallow oil pan design that is on XR's and some PreRunners.

I will only run a 30 weight if it is from Redline, Eneos, Motul or Brad Penn, and if it comes with a minimum of 1500ppm ZDDP or I add my own ZDDP in. I actually never go below a 40 weight, and still add in Redline Engine Break-in oil. As of the last race at MSR, I still have 5w-50 in there, and Redline Engine Break-in oil.
Agree to leave oils alone, any chance you have a picture of different bearings? Part numbers? I am curious if they really switched and when. (sure did not got some chepo knock offs?) If they switched Most likely in 2010 when Japan had to recover after tsunami.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:15 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinb17 View Post
so in your opinion, is running 40-50 wt oil in a stock engine a good preventative measure, or is it a waste? since obviously your application is a little different than most...
x2, 50 weight seems heavy for every day use when stock calls for 30 (not trying to be argumentative, just curious). Do you ever get to the point or run the risk of the oil being too heavy to properly circulate? Not necessarily speaking of running 50 weight in the Tacoma but say running 50 weight in a car that calls for 20 weight oil?
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:21 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinb17 View Post
so in your opinion, is running 40-50 wt oil in a stock engine a good preventative measure, or is it a waste? since obviously your application is a little different than most...
I would recommend for tue average man, to run a 40 weight. Except on the new ECOBOOST engines. Or other companies' equivalents. Currently in my truck is a stock engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueT View Post
Agree to leave oils alone, any chance you have a picture of different bearings? Part numbers? I am curious if they really switched and when. (sure did not got some chepo knock offs?) If they switched Most likely in 2010 when Japan had to recover after tsunami.
The bearings that I purchased are OEM. Ordered them and picked them up from Toyota. I might have a picture on photobucket, but not sure. The older bearings would take up the the whole width of the main caps. These new ones leave between a 1/32 - 1/16 on either side.

I had to call back and make sure they were the proper bearings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugga View Post
x2, 50 weight seems heavy for every day use when stock calls for 30 (not trying to be argumentative, just curious). Do you ever get to the point or run the risk of the oil being too heavy to properly circulate? Not necessarily speaking of running 50 weight in the Tacoma but say running 50 weight in a car that calls for 20 weight oil?
Certain new engines are designed on the brink as is. And testing has shown that adding a heavier weight oil will actually cause component failure. Sadly but true. Older engines are stronger. The ECO move has brought forth much weaker engines.

If it calls for a 20, I would use a 30. If it calls for a 30, you could use a 40. Except in the new Eco style engines.

I have been running a 40 & 50 weight in my 1GR's for plenty of time with no problems. Unless I ran out of oil.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:24 PM   #47
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10-4, thanks Tor. 40wt in the next change.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:09 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
Nope. I would not recommend running a 20 weight at all. Doesnt matter what winter modifier (ex. "5w") is in there. If you do, don't do extended drain intervals with it. It is already being taxed enough as is.

Especially wouldn't use recycled 20 weight.

Again. All that a 20 weight is for, is for gas mileage. Not for protection, durability, and longevity.
I've been trying to tell people this very thing for a while now.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/4-c...nges-2-7l.html

Torspd, you say to use a heavier weight oil than is recommended in the owner's manual. I agree with this, but have a question. The '05-'07 2TR's recommend 5W-30, but later models call for 0W-20 (for fuel efficiency). Would you recommend going to 5W-40 or 10W-40? I've always stuck with M1 5W-30 for my '06.
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:35 AM   #49
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Go with a 30 first. Definitely no 20 though. As long as they have made no drastic changes to the internals, then you should be fine with either 30 or 40 weight. You will obviously have a slight mpg loss with the heavier weights. It is worth the added protection though. Easy way to gain back the mpg is to add a few more psi to the tires, and reduce the rolling resistance.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:22 AM   #50
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I would probably do some research before blindly following some guy on a message board. I'm not saying it will do any harm, but many modern engines have tighter bearing clearances that are built for lighter weight oil. I'm not going to argue with Torspd because he seems to know these engines well, but I would just do some reading of my own and then decide.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:13 AM   #52
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Well Tor has killed 3 of these engines now so maybe he's not the one to take advice from haha. Although those didn't have anything to do with engine maintenance. Mostly too do with running too much boost haha
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:49 AM   #54
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By the way Torspd I do love your truck, I haven't read all of your build yet but do you think the Darton sleeves are worth it? Has anyone actually run into problems with the deck being open or is it mostly just preventative? Sorry for being off topic.
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #55
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There is one I know of, and he had a TRD s/c. Cylinder wobble signs were evident on the headgaskets. According to his mechanic.

Open deck engines are known to have that problem. Just the nature of the design. Especially once F/I is added to an N/A designed engine. Torque to yield head bolts that allow to much stretch, and if the RPMs are raised over stock, combined with the F/I, will over time show the effects.

Due to my goal I have set, I am taking every precaution to over build and prevent myself from encountering any "known" problems. So yes, the sleeves are every bit worth it. They can be repaired or replaced if damaged, or heavily overbored; aid in better cylinder cooling; still allow coolant to flow to the heads; increase the rigidity of the entire block. They cannot drop either.

And thank you for the compliment sir.

Trust me, a 20 weight is not going in this engine. Lol.

Only a 40 or 50 weight. Most likely a 40.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:33 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcats View Post
I would probably do some research before blindly following some guy on a message board. I'm not saying it will do any harm, but many modern engines have tighter bearing clearances that are built for lighter weight oil. I'm not going to argue with Torspd because he seems to know these engines well, but I would just do some reading of my own and then decide.
Yeah, I'm not much for taking any one person's advice/opinion on anything, unless it's supported by facts.

The 5W-30 seems to be well suited for the weather here in VA, so my plan is to stick with it.
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:44 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torspd View Post
A good brand 30 weight is much better than a 20.

0, 5,or 10w is just modifiers added to the oil so that pours equivalently to that weight of an oil when the oil is cold.

Just look for brands that say "high antiwear additives" on the back.

This original topic can easily get derailed on a discussion of oils and weights. So let's keep it simple. Dont use a 20 weight (which is weight and not the 1st number in the pair. Which is the modified flow number ex 5w-20)

The higher the weight the higher thermal resistance and cushion against mechanical shock. Hard acceleration and high rpm stress and heat up oil. To thin an oil and the lower its thermal resistance. (Probably not the exact science term, but you get the point) Basically lower boiling point. Low antiwear additive count and low thermal efficiency and it is much easier to have the oil fail at preventing metal to metal contact. Then comes fail bearings and seized engines.

Ridiculously long drain intervals, especially those when people don't change the filter AND don't have their oil quality tested after "X" amount of mile to ensure it is still ok, is also going to cause breakdown of the oil and sludge build-up. As well as internal wear. Thus another failed engine.

Low oil will always cause rod knock in these engines because by the time the oil level is to low and the light comes on, the damage is already done. Especially with the shallow oil pan design that is on XR's and some PreRunners.

I will only run a 30 weight if it is from Redline, Eneos, Motul or Brad Penn, and if it comes with a minimum of 1500ppm ZDDP or I add my own ZDDP in. I actually never go below a 40 weight, and still add in Redline Engine Break-in oil. As of the last race at MSR, I still have 5w-50 in there, and Redline Engine Break-in oil.
Doesn't break in oil increase wear in the cylinders so that the rings seat and the cylinder walls smooth out? I would think it would be a bad idea to always run break in oil... Am I missing something?
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:28 PM   #58
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:21 PM   #59
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So being a California Taco, I am wondering if I should switch to 5W-40 because I have been currently using 5W-30 for about 32K on my 2012 Taco. No problems, but I do want longevity out of this beast.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:23 PM   #60
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Is this the same V6 that comes in the 4th Gen 4Runner?
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