Who has had a major failure with the 1GRFE V-6??

First thing you need to do is to try and figure out what caused the rod knock.

I'll place my money on all rod knock. Main bearings could very likely be damaged by metal shavings from the destroyed rod bearing/bearings. Those will have to be carefully inspected as well.

On these cranks, when you get rod knock, the respective rod journal will be damaged. Severity dependent upon how long it ran with said knock. The crank will need to be machined on all bad journals, obviously, or replaced.

Clevite makes bearings for the 1GR. You can also have them coated.

 

Pulled the oil pan off and found a mess of silicone and metal bits. Lots of sparkles in the oil too. ran out of time and only got the small metal pain off. diff is ready to drop and then i'll pull the rest of the aluminum pan to get a better look at things. As soon i dropped the pan i saw long stringy piece of silicone half sucked into the strainer(wish i took a photo). this makes me think that silicone may have been the cause of the spun bearing. there was some scary chunks of metal in bottom as you can see in the photo. above the pen is silicone, below is the metal. there is plenty of other small bits i just picked out the largest.

 

Untill I can get it stripped down further is there any guess to what these metal bits are from?

 

Your engine.

Not trying to be a dick; it's just that those pieces are so small and an engine has so many moving internals that it's nearly impossible to tell what it's from until you strip the engine down and find something that's missing pieces.

As an example, I tore down an engine some years ago because I was changing the oil and noticed that it was glittery. Dropped the oil pan and found it full of shavings. Thought for sure they were going to be from the crank but they ended up actually being from the timing cover. The timing chain had eaten its guide and was working on chewing through the cover. Ended up being a much easier fix than I was expecting; new chain, guide, and cover and I was good to go.

 

Highly unlikely small piece of slilicone would stop oil pump. Maybe if it was able to cover whole strainer, maybe than. Small stringy piece would get chewed by oil pump no problems.
All those pieces look like they went through some gear. So that could mean timing chain failure or around that area. Very top piece looks like part of VVTi gear.
Once you get engine a part post more pics but I would start by taking off timing chain cover. If timing chain went down it would knock too. As long as oil pump was running and pushing oil you may need only timing parts.

 

Good point Noel. I shall have a look at the timing chain next time im at the shop. I just assumed it wasn't a problem because i know the very experienced mechanic that had replaced all the timing components.
I didnt mean it would stop the oil pump Blue. gear pumps like that tend to grind up metal and spit it out. I meant the silicone could have flowed through the strainer, through the pump(chewed up im sure) and smaller pieces could have stuck in an oil gallery supplying one of the crank or rod bearings.

 

If by some amazing happening, that the timing chain did anything but stay on, you'll have a litany of problems. Damaged pistons and valves, misfires, lack of compression, damaged bearings.... etc.

That is a bearing. Which bearing? I don't know.

There is an inspection cover on the timing cover. Passenger side. Rectangular, just under the valve cover. Four 10mm bolts hold it on. You'll be able to inspect the timing chain from there.

 

This /\/\
If somebody worked on your timing chain before failure I would start looking at that first. 9 out 10 times thats the cause .

 

Update
Removed the timing chain inspection plate. Can't see anything but the tensioner through there.
Finished removing the oil pan and saw metal filings around the crank closest to the front of engine. After a closer look I could see the problem right away. Number one Rod bearing had spun. Only pulled the cap next to it so far(looked fine) and all the thrust shims look ok. A bit more scuffing on some of the cylinder walls then it should be for only 60 k on the truck. something to do with metal filings in the oil likely.
I kept an eye on the timing chain from the bottom(the little I can see) as I was turning the crank to bring one and two down to disconnect rods. I'd still like to have a better look but but how. It was definitely not a timing gear sound when it started knocking bad and stopped. I've heard plenty of bad timing chains and by the frequency of the knock I'm sure it was only one rod. Pictures to follow

 

Not for the problem, obviously, but for sourcing it.

 

If that rod and rod end cap are not discolored from heat, then you might be lucky enough to get away with just a new bearing. As long as the rod journal isn't fubar'd. Just depends how long the rod was bouncing around, and if it was egg-shaped in the process.

There is a stamp on one side of the rod, near the rod-end cap. It will be a number. That is the bearing necessary for that rod. All else being good of course.

 

Add another Hydrolock to the list.
2005 TRD OR, victim of the South Platte river near Deckers, CO

 

Blown, or just shut off due to water?

Snorkel in your future.

 

Broken or bent Rod is my guess. We'll see when I get into it.

Had planned snorkel down the line. Moved up the list after this.

 

Window, or just won't turn over?

 

Did you find water in any other locations, like ECU? The picture looks like the current was on the passenger side, is that correct? Just curious for future crossings.

 

Won't turn over. Where it sticks you can turn back by hand but not forward.

Yes current was from passenger. Thought I shorted something electrical, turned out way worse. Sucked water straight into the intake. At least 4 cylinders had water. Intake had quite a bit and filter was drenched.

 

Sorry to hear, let us know how the teardown goes.

 

Oh man I need to add to this. My current 1grfe has 126k miles and needs head work. Shop says it’s a damaged valve guide and a blown headgasket. I have two other 1grfes in my garage right now. One spun a bearing at 125k and the other blew a head gasket at 130k miles. I took the heads off the spin bearing motor and the heads off the headgasket motor and taking them to machine shop tomorrow morning for inspection. I’ll be pulling the heads on my truck for further diagnostics most likely tomorrow afternoon.
Picture of the connecting rods from the bad bearing 1grfe.

And a pic of the headgasket block

 

What year model is the one in your truck?