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Anti-Sieze...Yes or No???

View Poll Results: Anti-sieze... Yes or No?
YES-always use anti-sieze 52 83.87%
NO-follow plug manufacturers directions 10 16.13%
Voters: 62. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-22-2013, 07:36 AM   #21
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Spoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shedSpoonman is one of the sharper tools in the shed
 
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Air fuel sensor... That's a new one to me. O2 sensors measure oxygen of course. I don't think there's any sensor to measure the a/f ratio, good sir. O2 does it all
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:40 AM   #22
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Yes use it... and I always used Copper anti seize from NAPA. I had a 2002 STS Turbo Camaro that I had to change the plugs on regularly. Helped a bunch with aluminum heads
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoonman View Post
Air fuel sensor... That's a new one to me. O2 sensors measure oxygen of course. I don't think there's any sensor to measure the a/f ratio, good sir. O2 does it all

Toyota calls them AF sensors good sir, and they use a 5 volt reference signal. A standard O2 measures up to 1 volt. Toyota uses AF sensors before the cat and an O2 after the cat. An AF sensor can also be referred to as a wide-band O2 sensor. The 2 sensors are not the same.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:00 AM   #25
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Also Spoonman, you are correct in saying they only measure oxygen. An air fuel sensor is just more accurate than a standard O2. I am not trying to bump heads.
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoonman View Post
Air fuel sensor... That's a new one to me. O2 sensors measure oxygen of course. I don't think there's any sensor to measure the a/f ratio, good sir. O2 does it all
As mentioned, the AF sensor is more of a wide band sensor. It is still an oxygen sensor in the grand scheme of things, but it is much more sensitively accurate, and allows the computer to have a much more accurate control of fuel trim. They are however built totally different, even though their outside appearance is nearly identical.

The problem stems from the never vehicles running much more lean than they were in the past. In order to properly maintain this, and monitor it, a newer sensor was needed that could provide the computers with much more accurate measurements. The operation of these two types of sensors are completely different, and you cannot use the older method of circuit testing to test the newer AF sensors.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:18 AM   #27
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This is what I buy and I also use it on my gensets.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124...kel+anti+seize
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vstrom30 View Post
Denso and NGK both have write-ups about their zinc coating on the spark plug threads. It is no longer necessary on quality plugs with coating already applied. However, they do mention that cheap, crappy plugs with black threads that tight-wads use absolutely still need anti-seize. I know this info is hard to take for some, but it is what it is. I replace plugs as part of a 120k service, and I have never had an issue with stuck plug threads, and that is with Denso coming out, and Denso going back in. Trust me in saying that Toyota and Lexus don't anti-seize anything. If you want to use the stuff, go ahead, but don't sweat it if you didn't.

Correction, they anti-seize the AF sensor threads, but that gets nasty-hot.

Agree 100%.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:19 AM   #29
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Yes, Absolutly use it!
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:33 AM   #30
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I always use anti-seize on any fastener that is threading into aluminum (or aluminium if you like). I've dealt with too many seized fasteners in motorcycles. I've learned my lesson. Have to think that all the seized plugs in early Ford V-10 with Aluminum heads might have prevented with anti-seize.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #31
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Thanks for all the posts I changed out the plugs on Sunday and did use anti-seize. You would'nt believe the squeeking noise the plugs made as I removed them!I can't imagine not using anti-seize after hearing that noise...The old plugs still had some life left. I have found that the engine starts quicker with the new plugs and has a bit more power.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:04 PM   #32
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i've done alot of plugs. i've never used anti seize before. my porsches have alum heads, never had an issue. i pulled stock plugs out my my 1975 911, they came out easy. old ancient plugs! my 1981 car i am not worried.

i had a bottle laying around for some exhaust work i did on that car, so i did use it this last time on my tacoma plug change. two reasons:
1. it couldnt hurt, if i was using just a little bit on the threads.
2. you guys freaked me out. i imagined stripped thread and huge bills.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:14 PM   #33
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Yes, use anti-seize *sparingly* on new spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head. Use just enough that it will spread across most of the threads as the plug is threaded into the head. There's no reason to use more, it will just make a mess at the bottom of the plug hole as the threads push out the excess. Be sure not to get any on the electrode!
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGXR View Post
Yes, use anti-seize *sparingly* on new spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head. Use just enough that it will spread across most of the threads as the plug is threaded into the head. There's no reason to use more, it will just make a mess at the bottom of the plug hole as the threads push out the excess. Be sure not to get any on the electrode!
+1

I put a pea-sized ball on my finger and that is more than enough for all 4 plugs. Put a dab on each plug, 3 or 4 threads up from the bottom, clean off my finger, then roll my finger around the plugs so the AS is only in the valleys and not on the peaks, and there's still valleys over the AS between the peaks... the surface is not flush.
Just a VERY light coating.
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