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ABS SKID/ECU Computer Replacement

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by jonathan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM
    #1
    jonathan

    jonathan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    NJ to Austin TX
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    Grillcraft grill Kenwood DNX 7140(gone) De-Badged and De-Stickered Tint 5% Back, Black Bull Bar(gone)
    Hey guys, so my ABS and traction control lights were lit.
    I did all the trouble shooting I could do and then brought it in to the dealer.

    They said I need a $3050.47 "SKID ECU/BRAKE ACTUATOR COMPUTER"
    Part #44050-04100

    Anyone have to replace this before?
    I found a few $150 ABS computers on ebay but I am not sure if they are a scam/wrong part or not. I also found a guy that will sell me a remanufactured one for $350

    Any info would be awesome, THANKS!

    -jon
     
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    #1
  2. Mar 20, 2013 at 11:44 AM
    #2
    cjimenRR

    cjimenRR Be Good or Be Good At It

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    If you look on the abs actuator itself you should see the computer is bolted onto the actuator. Toyota doesn't sell the computer on its own hence the hefty price tag. Check where all the electrical connectors go on the computer there should be a part number, take that number to your local wrecking yards and buy just the ecu
     
  3. Mar 20, 2013 at 12:00 PM
    #3
    jonathan

    jonathan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 4x4 Double Cab Black
    Grillcraft grill Kenwood DNX 7140(gone) De-Badged and De-Stickered Tint 5% Back, Black Bull Bar(gone)
    Awesome thanks for the super fast response!
     
  4. Mar 31, 2013 at 7:50 AM
    #4
    tacopa

    tacopa Member

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    I just had mine replaced by the dealer less than a month ago and the lights have come back on twice. I took it back in and since they were not able to recreate it they told me there is nothing they could do. The truck only has 6,900 miles on it. The ABS & Trac lights would come on at random times(every several hundred to 1,000 miles. If I stopped the truck and shut it off for a few seconds, sometime it would go off(but not always). I spoke to the service coordinator at the dealer and he is setting up an appointment to have a Toyota Field Tech check it out. I have had multiple issues with this truck since day one and it is really starting to get old having to take so much time off of work to bring it into the dealer. The reason I buy new Toyotas is so I do not have these kind of inconveniences. I'll keep you posted on what they find.
     
  5. Mar 31, 2013 at 7:53 AM
    #5
    tacopa

    tacopa Member

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    By the way, when I picked up the truck I had to sign their warranty paper for the covered repairs(replacement of brake actuator & driver's side door motor) and the total was around $2,500 for everything.
     
  6. Mar 31, 2013 at 2:08 PM
    #6
    jonathan

    jonathan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 4x4 Double Cab Black
    Grillcraft grill Kenwood DNX 7140(gone) De-Badged and De-Stickered Tint 5% Back, Black Bull Bar(gone)
    Yikes! On such a new truck? That stinks.
    Keep me posted. I still haven't done anything with my issue yet. I am just driving around trying not to slam on the brakes haha.
     
  7. Jun 27, 2013 at 9:43 AM
    #7
    Erik

    Erik That smells like pure gasoline

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    Shrockworks bumper+ IFS skid, 4xInnovations rock sliders, Toytec Bilstein/Eibach 5100 @ 2.5", 3" All-pro leaf pack w/Bilstein 5100, PIAA 510SMR, PIAA 1500, Python LC3 2-way Auto-start, Fog lights on w/Parking lights, ATRAC Hack, Diff breather mod
    I have an issue where I have most likely burned something out. I did an ATRAC hack mod and one day wheeling with bigger tires, the ABS/VSC/limited slip shit the bed. I got the codes for it and it's saying that I have a drivers/rear wheel speed sensor malfunction (could also be the circuit) and a decelerator sensor malfunction (could also be the circuit). The two things that those codes have in common are the brake actuator (skid control ecu) could be damaged.

    I tested the wheel sensors and they all are getting power except the drivers/rear. Tonight I will test the decel sensor under the drivers seat (if anyone can tell me how to get to it, I would be grateful to save an hour of work). If the decel sensor is not getting power, I think the next thing to do is test the skid control ecu. Any ideas how do I do that?

    I just need to pass inspection so I will unplug the damn abs light bulbs before I spend 2500 to get a new computer. I liked wheeling with the atrac hack though so I want to get it working again if I can.
     
  8. Jul 3, 2013 at 11:37 AM
    #8
    jonathan

    jonathan [OP] Well-Known Member

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    09 4x4 Double Cab Black
    Grillcraft grill Kenwood DNX 7140(gone) De-Badged and De-Stickered Tint 5% Back, Black Bull Bar(gone)
    I finally found the ECU on ebay, has anyone changed this out before?
     
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    #8
  9. Feb 3, 2022 at 4:16 PM
    #9
    Jacked Burton

    Jacked Burton Well-Known Member

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    Tires: 35/11.5/17 Toyo AT3s Wheels: FN FX Pro Gunmetal 17s with TRD center caps Zinc Metallic lettering. Yukon 4.30 gears with TruTrac Front Suspension: OME 887 w/5100s, Freedom Offroad UCAs n Superbumps Rear: Archive Hammer Hangers,Dakar Mediums, Bilstien 5125s Ubolt flip n Superbumps, Headlights: Selfmade Retrofits URD shortshift kit Airaid CAI No name throttle controller
    I'm about to do this tomorrow. :fingerscrossed:
     
  10. Feb 8, 2022 at 5:04 PM
    #10
    Jacked Burton

    Jacked Burton Well-Known Member

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    Tires: 35/11.5/17 Toyo AT3s Wheels: FN FX Pro Gunmetal 17s with TRD center caps Zinc Metallic lettering. Yukon 4.30 gears with TruTrac Front Suspension: OME 887 w/5100s, Freedom Offroad UCAs n Superbumps Rear: Archive Hammer Hangers,Dakar Mediums, Bilstien 5125s Ubolt flip n Superbumps, Headlights: Selfmade Retrofits URD shortshift kit Airaid CAI No name throttle controller
    Got the ECU only swapped.
    ABS and Brake lights gone.
    Haven't tried to lock them up but just by the feel now I'd say it work perfectly.
     
    DaTacoNL likes this.

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