Fix for Squeaking Clutch

I have made a modification that stopped the squeak on my 08 clutch.

First the disclaimer. This will fix the squeak (noise) that stops when the clutch is slightly depressed. This will not cure a damaged TO bearing or transmission input tube, but I think it will prevent these failures from happening in the long run. If you do a lot of towing you might not want to do this because the fix reduces the clamp pressure of the clutch.

You need to get a mid 90's clutch MASTER cylinder from an F150. Inside you'll find a spring and collar. Remove and disassemble your slave cylinder and replace the spring with the F150 spring and collar. The collar fits on the peg of the piston that had the Toyota spring on it. It will be a bit of a struggle to reinstall the slave cylinder because the spring pre-loads the TO bearing.

The spring you need should be about 3" long, 5/8" ID with a rate of 5 to 7 lbs/in.

Many other vehicles (my experience with Porsche, Jaguar, Volvo, Maserati, Alfa Romeo, and Ford) have pre-loaded TO bearings and I've never had squeak problems with their clutches. Bearings don't like to run lose and/or slipping.

 

Got video?

 

No video, but when you get the Toyota slave cylinder apart it's pretty obvious.

P.S. I did this about 2 years ago and to date no squeak and no problems.

 

I like your fix . Hope it lasts forever but i doubt it .
Your spring upgrade shouldnt reduce plate loading . The release bearing is constant design meaning it always turns but your pressure plate is responsible for the clamping force between the friction disc and flywheel . unless the total travel of the release bearing has changed ?

EDIT : After reading the FSM , I retract what I mentioned here as I wasnt aware at the time . Your fix will stop the noise for a short while but is it a true fix ?
The release bearing is designed as NON constant . The Tacoma does not use a self adjusting clutch.
As the clutch disc wears out , the fingers on the pressure plate move towards the release bearing . All you did here is make the bearing spin .
Trust me , this is Toyotas problem for leaving the adjustability out of the 2nd gen clutch
Feel free to pm me even if you dont trust me

You want a true fix for this poorly designed crap with zero adjustability .
Make the release bearing half the size it is from factory specs . This will give the bearing a little freedom to rotate as the clutch wears in

 

I'm not sure what you're trying to say here. The total travel of the release lever (release bearing) is unchanged. All that happens with the stronger spring is there is sufficient force on the release bearing to keep it turning with the pressure plate fingers without slipping/vibrating/chattering when the clutch is released (pedal up).

 

Here's a picture of the fix. This is the slave cylinder and its internals. You replace the weaker spring (upper in photo) with a stronger one that I described (lower in photo). The Ford collar I talk about fits the new spring to the green piston. That's it problem solved!

 

Better than ever. There is no noise and the clutch works fine. It sounds like the bearing has actually "settled in".

 

just had my slave cylinder replace and was told the new one have better spring... wont take there word for it but it sure is working way better then before.

 

Here's a thread that shows the newer, stronger spring https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-slave-cylinder-rebuild.387315/#post-10720419 I had emailed Toyota a year or two ago about the fix so maybe that's why they're finally doing it. Part number is about $13 but there are still people out there throwing away thousands on clutch/bearing replacements. There's actually a video that shows replacing everything but the guy won't take out the slave cylinder (and fix it) because he thinks he can't bleed it...go figure. You can actually see the new TOB vibrating and making noise in a clip towards the end of the video. (2006 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L X-Runner Clutch Installation)

 

Sorry Yes you guys are right its that fix I am talking about.

There is a Toyota TSB for the slave. Its on this site, I have seen it somewhere.

Although if your trans bellhousing is already scared up from a cracked TOB, then I would personally use the steel sleeve + Toyota's stronger spring, but the spring will prob fix it without the sleeve.

Cheers!

 

Searched this website and Googled and can't find the mythical TSB. If there is one I'd sure like to see it (like the TSB number perhaps)?

 

And here ya go!


http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ut-bearing-chirp-squeak-fj-clutch-bearing.pdf

 

The TSB just lists old and new parts which is what you'd expect. I eventually found this post which has pictures of what might be the old and new parts (no part numbers to confirm) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tsb-clutch-chirp-need-input.160167/ The TSB requires replacement of the clutch release cylinder which is the culprit in this saga and what I've always recommended. The pictures do show a longer release cylinder but the link also shows a shorter TOB which will tend to move the release fork forward. So does the new longer cylinder apply enough preload when the fork is moved forward? Maybe/possibly/probably? I'd want to make sure there is 5 to 10 lbs of preload on the fork whatever the configuration of parts is.

 

Yup i agree on all fronts. I wish I could go back after Toyota for my 05. I had 4 TOB in the thing before 50k miles and the TSB didn't come out till the engine mounts failed and collapsed into the frame.

The 05' was a nightmare. Wheel Bearings at 60k, Frame failure at 105k, 4 TOB by 50k, Transmission failure of 3rd gear synchro (new transmission at 65k)....

The 13' is so much better on all fronts....

My 05 was built in Feb of 04 so it was one of the first ones... I will never purchase a first year Tacoma again. lesson learned.

 

What year and info do you look up for the ford slave cylinder. I'm looking to do this this weekend. Hlandun

 

My F150 was a 95 but now I'd try the Toyota kit in the link in my post #9 above.

 

Sorry to bother again, but was it from a v8 or v6 f150 or does it matter? I'm still going to try and use this before my chirp appears constantly. Its only periodic when temp drops below 32 and above 94 at them moment.

 

Mine was from a 302 V8. Don't know about V6's.

 

Sucess! Found the correct part and swapped the spings along with using the ford collar. The slave was a bit of a struggle to re install and bleed but it only took about 30 mins. The partial chirp has now deceased for a week with no return. Also on a side note, the "new" upgraded spring in the new Toyota slave are a exact match to the existing one with no poundage diff.

 

Glad it worked. If you have to struggle a bit to get the slave cylinder in then you know you've got the right solution.