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Old 06-03-2013, 12:32 PM   #1
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Fuel System Cleaning

I was informed by Toyota Mechanics that I need have my fuel system cleaned due to carbon build up; I am losing about 50-60 miles, so my question is; is this something I can do myself? I'd like to save $100-250 bucks if it's do-able.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:36 PM   #2
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Here is a lucas oil cleaner
http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/lucasfueltreatment.aspx

Sea Foam seems popular
http://www.sears.com/seafoam-motor-t...a=02801507000P
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:47 PM   #4
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Thanks, I take it that I follow the instructions as directed and that's it?
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomcat91783 View Post
Thanks, I take it that I follow the instructions as directed and that's it?
Seafoam it! I was told the same thing when I had my transmission fluid flushed. Funny thing, I asked why they would check that when all they were doing was the flush - they said its based on mileage and not by actual checking. Anyway, I wasn't about to pay that. Just got a can of seafoam, put 1/3 into the line and the rest into the tank. Smoked like a bitch for a little! Have read on here that this treatment is no different than what they do - so for about $10 get yourself a can of seafoam and do it yourself! There are a lot of threads on here about seafom, too...
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:49 PM   #6
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Use a fuel additive with PEA and use water instead of seafoam to decarb the engine. Also clean your MAF sensor. Those 3 things and my truck purs.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Jack View Post
use water instead of seafoam to decarb the engine
Very risky. Both are risky, water even more so.
It is very easy to hydrolock an engine dumping a liquid into the intake... and using the power brake line does not supply the product to all cylinders.

Unless the engine is knocking and you are getting run-on after shutdown, the cylinders do not need to be de-carbonized.

Just run a good fuel treatment in the tank, change your plugs, clean the MAF, and clean the TBI butterfly.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Very risky. Both are risky, water even more so.
It is very easy to hydrolock an engine dumping a liquid into the intake... and using the power brake line does not supply the product to all cylinders.

Unless the engine is knocking and you are getting run-on after shutdown, the cylinders do not need to be de-carbonized.

Just run a good fuel treatment in the tank, change your plugs, clean the MAF, and clean the TBI butterfly.
I agree. I'm just saying it can be done and with great results. I won't go into it here, but there is a ton of information on how to and the history of this method online.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:59 AM   #9
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Berryman b12 chemtool fixed my jumpy gas gauge in the Tahoe, very potent stuff and half the price of Seafoam.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:04 AM   #10
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I just add a bottle of techron every couple tanks and run higher octane fuel,and it get a constant 19-20 mpg and also change the plugs when needed
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:42 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasPreRunner View Post
I just add a bottle of techron every couple tanks and run higher octane fuel,and it get a constant 19-20 mpg and also change the plugs when needed
Techron is also a great additive.

However; Higher octane fuel, will if anything, increase carbon build up.
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasPreRunner View Post
I just add a bottle of techron every couple tanks and run higher octane fuel,and it get a constant 19-20 mpg and also change the plugs when needed
X2 on the techron
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaBound View Post
However; Higher octane fuel, will if anything, increase carbon build up.
Not true.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
Not true.
Quite a few even moderating on the site who would disagree. I thought it was common knowledge with the information so readily available.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginiaBound View Post
Quite a few even moderating on the site who would disagree. I thought it was common knowledge with the information so readily available.
It's a myth that goes back to the 70s.

The ONLY thing the octane rating does is impact the fuel's resistance to detonation/preiginition. It is basically a slight elevation in the flashpoint, making the fuel harder to ignite, but once ignited, the flame front far exceeds the flashpoint and the fuel will burn.
The spark is also more than hot enough to ignite the mixture, so there is no change in when the mixture ignites. The speed of the flame front does not change.

The higher octane reduces the potential for "pinging" because it is more resistant to igniting during the compression stroke on hotter areas of the head (or the plug tip), so it allows for higher compression ratios and more advanced timing, which causes higher cylinder temperatures that could ignite lower octane fuels before the spark occurs.


So yes... I disagree with "even the mods here" if they are saying that higher octane increases carbon formation. It is a myth from the time when engines were designed and tuned to be run on 95+, and as lead was removed from fuel in the 70s, they began to have problems with pinging and "dieseling" on shutdown due to carbon deposits causing hot spots. These were issues with carb'd engines and poor tuning causing carbon formations from improper mixtures.

I had a '69 Buick that was horrible about that.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:17 PM   #16
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Gotta agree with Rich here. Octane rating does not affect carbon build up. I have disassembled plenty of engines in my career and the higher compression engines running higher octane did not have any more build up on the valves or pistons than the other engines.

Running too rich, or running poor quality fuel will increase carbon build up. I always add a bottle of STP fuel treatment every 5 tanks to keep my pistons clean. When my old engine spun a main bearing and I took it apart, the pistons were almost spotless, with no real build up, other than a small amount of surface carbon.

The best way to keep carbon build up down is to use good quality fuel with detergents, replace your air filter as recommended, and change spark plugs at proper intervals.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:26 PM   #17
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Redline SI-1, use a whole bottle for a shock treatment if you haven't used any fuel system cleaner in the past. Clean your throttle body...THOROUGHLY; it will be filthy on the backside; take it off if you have to. Get a can of Seafoam Deep Creep with the 180 degree straw and spray it in the throttle body after all is put back together with the engine running. You'll see how it works when you see a can in the store. After all that, run it hard for a while, let it cool and then change plugs. GTG
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:31 PM   #18
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+1 Rich and BamaToy. Can't always trust what you see on the internet. Experience is the best teacher.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich91710 View Post
It's a myth that goes back to the 70s.

The ONLY thing the octane rating does is impact the fuel's resistance to detonation/preiginition. It is basically a slight elevation in the flashpoint, making the fuel harder to ignite, but once ignited, the flame front far exceeds the flashpoint and the fuel will burn.
The spark is also more than hot enough to ignite the mixture, so there is no change in when the mixture ignites. The speed of the flame front does not change.

The higher octane reduces the potential for "pinging" because it is more resistant to igniting during the compression stroke on hotter areas of the head (or the plug tip), so it allows for higher compression ratios and more advanced timing, which causes higher cylinder temperatures that could ignite lower octane fuels before the spark occurs.


So yes... I disagree with "even the mods here" if they are saying that higher octane increases carbon formation. It is a myth from the time when engines were designed and tuned to be run on 95+, and as lead was removed from fuel in the 70s, they began to have problems with pinging and "dieseling" on shutdown due to carbon deposits causing hot spots. These were issues with carb'd engines and poor tuning causing carbon formations from improper mixtures.

I had a '69 Buick that was horrible about that.
Good answer.
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