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Changing Rotors and Keeping Current Pads?

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Old 07-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #1
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Changing Rotors and Keeping Current Pads?

At about 65K I changed out brake pads and had the rotors turned. Shortly thereafter I started getting pulsations when braking. I can feel the pulsations in the steering wheel too. I'm assuming that the rotors are warped. I've been driving on them for quite a while (just turned 90K today.) I probably should have done this sooner but I'm thinking about replacing the rotors. Will there be an issue if I keep my current pads and just change the rotors? Is there something special I'd need to do to bed-in the pads/rotors? Also, any tips to compress the pistons in the calipers if I don't change the pads?
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:02 PM   #2
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If there's still lots of life left on the pads and they've never been glazed, you should be ok. "Bedding in" brakes is for pads, not rotors.
To compress the piston back in the bore, crack the bleed screw first. You should never back flush brake fluid through the system. You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes if you do it properly
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:04 PM   #3
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i would put new pads on it
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP100 View Post
At about 65K I changed out brake pads and had the rotors turned. Shortly thereafter I started getting pulsations when braking. I can feel the pulsations in the steering wheel too. I'm assuming that the rotors are warped. I've been driving on them for quite a while (just turned 90K today.) I probably should have done this sooner but I'm thinking about replacing the rotors. Will there be an issue if I keep my current pads and just change the rotors? Is there something special I'd need to do to bed-in the pads/rotors? Also, any tips to compress the pistons in the calipers if I don't change the pads?
I would not use the old pads.
Bedding-in-brakes is for both the pad & the rotor. Whatever rotors you buy, ask the manufacturer for bed-in procedures. The manufacturer will never want to bed new rotors with used pads.

Use a large C-clamp to compress the calipers. When I did mine this past spring (turn & new pads), I didn't need a c-clamp, as they compressed rather easily/freely by hand.

I would think its unusual to warp the rotors in less than 30K miles - but that depends on how thick your rotors were after they turned them at 65K.

Do you do a lot of hard braking? Have you hit any big potholes lately? Are your wheels torqued properly?
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:45 PM   #5
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Janster is right. Rotors do have a bed in procedure to start their long thermal cycle lifespan properly. And yeah, no manufacturer would ever recommend using old pads on new rotors.
However...
Unless you are going to put new OEM rotors paired with new OEM pads, the lifecycle will probably be less regardless of what you do. Unless you step up to Brembos or some other ultra high performance system.
I've learned over time that OE rotors basically never warp if they aren't abused. OE brakepads are also the best compromise of low dust + high friction coefficient.
Think about it: unless you work for Motor Trend or something and can do instant back to back tests of new vehicles, no one has ever thought the brakes on their new car didn't stop well enough
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:04 PM   #6
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I have to ask...

Why do you want to reuse the pads?
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LocoTaco View Post
I have to ask...

Why do you want to reuse the pads?
Gotta start taking my furlough days starting next week and $$ will be a little tight for one, and I figured if the old pads aren't worn down and look to be in good shape that maybe I could save a few bucks. I suppose I'll just change them out though.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:32 AM   #8
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Long term I would do new pads with new rotors. Save up and do it together. Pads are relatively cheap to buy.
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Old 07-03-2013, 05:18 PM   #9
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unless the wheel is jerking out of your hands while braking let it ride. New rotors and old pads is akin to taking a shower and putting dirty clothes on.

Furloughs suck but our leaders are having a great time. I'm in the same boat as you.
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Old 07-04-2013, 02:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUZZCUT View Post
unless the wheel is jerking out of your hands while braking let it ride. New rotors and old pads is akin to taking a shower and putting dirty clothes on.

Furloughs suck but our leaders are having a great time. I'm in the same boat as you.
No offense, but I wouldn't recommend letting it go until it gets that bad. I'm pretty sure it can have a negative effect on wheel bearings, tires, wheels, steering, and overall safety.

The last thing you need to do, is turn a $200 job into a $1000 job later on.

Just sayin....
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:16 AM   #11
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Pads are inexpensive and after 25k, ditch them...and I go on furlough next week also, and I think it is great, since I work 4x10, I will have four day weekends all summer. The only question I have yet to get answered is which 20% of my assigned workload to I ignore?
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hetkind View Post
Pads are inexpensive and after 25k, ditch them...and I go on furlough next week also, and I think it is great, since I work 4x10, I will have four day weekends all summer. The only question I have yet to get answered is which 20% of my assigned workload to I ignore?
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:34 AM   #13
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Pads are cheap. Change em out...
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:03 AM   #14
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Never NEVER try to save money or time on brakes.....unless you carry a large rope and anchor. What else is left to stop your truck besides another vehicle, person, or building.

Change them out
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:17 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHPLSH3 View Post
Janster is right. Rotors do have a bed in procedure to start their long thermal cycle lifespan properly. And yeah, no manufacturer would ever recommend using old pads on new rotors.
However...
Unless you are going to put new OEM rotors paired with new OEM pads, the lifecycle will probably be less regardless of what you do. Unless you step up to Brembos or some other ultra high performance system.
I've learned over time that OE rotors basically never warp if they aren't abused. OE brakepads are also the best compromise of low dust + high friction coefficient.
Think about it: unless you work for Motor Trend or something and can do instant back to back tests of new vehicles, no one has ever thought the brakes on their new car didn't stop well enough
I'm not gonna lie, the stock pads and rotors combo was horrible. They would constantly warp and would not provide strong braking. The combo I replaced them with has been leaps and bounds better.


I'd go against the grain, if your pads have a lot of life left in them, I see no reason to change them out. Make sure they're worn evenly all around and have at it. I've replaced rotors without changing the pads and replaced pads without replacing rotors, there's no safety concern if all the parts are in good working order and there is plenty of wear left on the part you didn't replace.
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:31 AM   #16
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Just my 2 cents;

If those rotors are acting up, what do you think those pads are doing.....trying to "make up" for those waves that keep slapping them...

Sorry for the furlough BUT please save up and do the whole process A NEW.....those used pads might last 3 weeks or 12 months BUT when they go, you're right back to square one...
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