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Old 11-13-2013, 06:01 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronArf View Post
You going with hard lines purely for looks? Much easier IMO to properly run DOT air line, and push to connect fittings. Carry some spare line and a few union fittings. If using compression fittings carry some spare ferrules as well.
Looks & function. I've seen the flexible lines get snagged and break, and they are more prone to leaking, now I'm not saying the stainless lines won't have any issues but I know it's limitations. I've been an electrician / instrument fitter for 9 years and 1/4" stainless tubing is perfect for my needs. I will use probably 1' of flexible line from the nearest fitting to the lockers, tank and PSI gauge, and as for spare parts, I always have probably 100 assorted swagelok fittings and valves, with extra 1/4" tubing since it's pretty easy to store along with about 100 assorted nuts and ferrels, better to be prepared than SOL
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:20 AM   #42
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Aaron, my theory on my location is this. Back there, it is an open area and while driving should create some wind resistance just because of the way out vehicles are designed. In this case, the wind resistance would translate to cooling force.

People mount the 'PUMA' setups in the location of the box all the time. So there muse be sufficient air flow back there.

MOUNT IT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE TAILLIGHT BULKHEAD*. Especially if you have the TRD package with that 400W inverter outlet in the bed.

UNLESS, you have the dimensions of the compressor itself. The total length of it is important if trying to put it on the drivers side. Something else important to note on your compressor choice. In the pic you posted, it has an electric fan on the top of it. That would keep the compressor at a reasonable temp no matter the location. (in theory)

I ran into an issue where I thought everything was done. Went to fit it all back together, and had to trim the box for it to go back in. .5" off the corner. This will not be an issue for anyone else unless they go with a setup that is a higher CFM/PSI/HP - just be mindful is all Theres about 10" of clearance above the box.

My take on the DOT stuff is this - I have had so many issues with the fittings and when a spray bottle full of soapy water becomes your friend, it is a horrible relationship./ I cannot tell you, how many times a month I had to trouble shoot issues on my Firestone Air Ride kit. The issue was not user error, i know my way around fittings, and cutting them clean , etc.

I will go hardlines also, and LARGE, I know about the flex points also,. Been finding this in my readings all over the place. SOmetimes it is the, seemingly, small stuff that we forget to mention. I appreciate you going over it again.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:20 AM   #43
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Large, too bad you are not local to me. Would have liked to colaborate with you on this.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:43 PM   #44
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So what is the verdict on mounting these compressors "on end" instead of the textbook position with the motor horizontal and the piston traveling vertically? I just read the User Manual on my Viair 400C and they say to mount it with the piston vertical.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #45
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Tech support for them claims, "as long as it is NOT mounted upside down, they are fine - upside down would allow moisture to accumulate in the 'head' which is a no no" Many of the forums that people "BAG" their rides do similar installations. On the side and other various positions.
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:02 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Tech support for them claims, "as long as it is NOT mounted upside down, they are fine - upside down would allow moisture to accumulate in the 'head' which is a no no" Many of the forums that people "BAG" their rides do similar installations. On the side and other various positions.
Thanks Skygear! I have almost all of the parts in hand now. Just need to find time to get it going. Back a few posts you had a list of tips. Tip #4 was "Remove the box and disconnect the harness." You saying to lift the whole composite truck bed off the frame? I have a rack on my truck and this would need to be pulled first... OR are you saying to pull out the cubbyhole box that is about a foot square?
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Old 11-14-2013, 11:25 AM   #47
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My fault. I meant the Cubby hole for the TRD 400W Outlet. Instal on the passenger side tailLight Bulk head. While you are up there, you could also do a Breather relocation for the Compressor. Just in case you are worried about the air quality for the filter. There is a large enough hole going through the bulk head you can use 'if' you want. I didn't and just kept a mental note of it just in case I run into issues.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:25 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
My fault. I meant the Cubby hole for the TRD 400W Outlet. Instal on the passenger side tailLight Bulk head. While you are up there, you could also do a Breather relocation for the Compressor. Just in case you are worried about the air quality for the filter. There is a large enough hole going through the bulk head you can use 'if' you want. I didn't and just kept a mental note of it just in case I run into issues.
Thanks again, truly appreciate your thred and the prompt replies my friend! I hope to get my OBA installation started this weekend. I made a nice manifold out of billet aluminum that is coming along nicely have a regulator (will be set to 80 PSI for the lockers), a couple gauges (right off the tank and post regulator), and two ASCO solenoids on the manifold to drive the ARB lockers. One female quick disconnect on the manifols will be to hook in an air hose to air up tires. The Viair 400C is 2 CFM at 30 PSI and I am using a small air tank, so it should be good for trailside re-inflation.

Some folks (selling lockers and hopefully another compressor!) say to get the small ARB compressor just for the lockers in case the primary OBA fails. I can appreciate redundancy, but would think my Viair system would be reliable. Maybe carry some spare fittings and tool to fix a broken line or plug a broken line until I get home...
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:47 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skygear View Post
Large, too bad you are not local to me. Would have liked to colaborate with you on this.
I'm open ears with any questions, I can pm you my # and text if you want. I do plan on doing a thorough write up with my boa setup when the stainless is installed, I don't like how it is now with the nylon/plastic tubing zip tied to everything lol but it serves it's purpose.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:50 AM   #50
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Even the compressor is zip tied
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:52 AM   #51
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No problem on response times when I'm able to help I try.

I to believe in redundancy, hence the layout of my system. But as stated your compressor reliability factor shouldn't be an issue. If another one of the matching compressors to what you currently have comes available for sale at a reasonable price, couldn't hurt to have a spare one on hand specially in the mounting location I discovered . Similar to you I've already run my plumbing for my dual lockerz and solenoids. With the exception of capped mine off since I don't have mine yet.

Any pictures of that manifold you made?
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:55 AM   #52
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Another thought I had was, if you had even a second small tank somewhere else on the vehicle like a one gallon. You could run a check valve in line to that tank so in the off chance the compressor does fail, you would have a gallon of 150 psi air as a reserve tank .
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:01 AM   #53
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Even the compressor is zip tied
Hahaha nice! It wirks, thats what counts!

What compressor is that? Tank?
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Old 11-16-2013, 08:09 AM   #54
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What quick connects did you folks go with? Automotive, Industrial, or universal? I went with the brass universal, just with my luck, someone would have something other than the connection I had, so universal is where I went.

Having a few spare parts is all part of the game here! Theres no parts store in the middle of the woods.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:52 PM   #55
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Got my Viair 400C mounted per skygear "bulkhead position" Just realized that I did not put the intake filter on the compressor.... So tomorrow morning I will see if I can reach up in there to pull the plastic plug they put in for shipping and thread in the little intake filter or a flex hose that I can remote mount a bigger filter onto..
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:15 PM   #56
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That sucks. Get some pictures!
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:11 PM   #57
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The air tank I have on hand is a 1 gallon size and now that I have it mounted I can see that it could easily be twice as long and still be out of harms way. I am thinking a larger tank might be good for tire refilling.

KMW Performance (a big air suspension shop) sells aluminum and steel tanks in about all sizes and configuration and at reasonable prices. I just ordered a 3 gallon size tank. They have this size in both steel and aluminum, both right about $66 with shipping. I thought it over and as this is mounted under my truck (where the spare tire is on a stock truck) I figured the steel tank would be tougher in case I hit a rock or something.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:42 PM   #58
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You might want to either return it and get the AL tank, or when you get it, make sure the inside of the tank is coated so you do not have to worry about rust/ moisture.

If you are mounting in the spare tire area right against (or above) the tow hitch area, you can fit a 5-7gal tank. They are all the same diameter, the length is the only other wild factor.

Mounting it where I suggested, it will be out of harms way and you will be able to put a spare back in there.

Post up a few pictures!
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:22 PM   #59
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You guys running water traps before your tanks? Or just a petcock on the tank drain it periodically? I used to get cups full of water out of my 12 gallon tank for my air ride suspension on the old S10. That was used much more heavily then for lockers, refilling tires...just an idea.
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #60
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I have them on order. BUT, with an AL tank, you could use them AFTER the tank and not have any issues. Coming right off the compressor, you should have ~6' of line. That is supposed to be so that the air can cool enough for the moisture to be properly extracted or separated.

That is what I gather from all the research and people I have spoken to in passing. The 'baggers' on some of the tuner boards are the ones that turned me onto that. HOWEVER< there are other people that just run them right off the 18" leader hose and report no issues. They say they are emptying them just as often .

I am surprised that ALL the company's that make these kits do not include one or two with them. It is a preventative measure to elongate the life of our systems.

Some of the people selling the STEEL tanks, still are selling them UNCOATED internally. They rust out over time. Even the coated versions do also, albiet not as fast.
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