How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by KevinOK

So after 10 tanks of gas post Iridium spark plug installation I can say
this:

Highway mpg Iridium spark plugs versus standard plugs using non ethenol gas did indeed go up but barely .05%.

Highway mpg Iridium spark plugs versus standard plugs with ethenol gas no noticable difference.

Around town Iridium mpg versus standard plugs using non-ethenol gas no noticable difference.

Around town Iridium mpg versus standard plugs using ethenol gas no noticable difference.

I do believe my truck has a little more pep to it in general with the Iridiums and noticed it the most in cruise control highway speeds through hilly terrain and with a load in the bed.

Are they worth the extra money, the ROI on highway mpg using non-ethenol gas would take likely longer than the plugs will last to accomplish any significant ROI.

I have not noticed any less mpg nevermind the gas type or driving done thus far.

Of course this is in my truck and drive environment certainly no scientific study.

How old were the plugs you compared the Iridiums too?

[KevinOK]

Well I've tracked my mpg since I bought my pickup new and after about the first 12K miles or so milage leveled out and has stayed steady since.

The original plugs had right at 60K and looked to be in excellent shape.


It is interesting that non-ethenol gas on the highway does have better mpg even if only marginal and that all the other tracks about the same.

The more peppy response and more specifically in hauling some loads in hilly terrain compared to original plugs seems to be the real benefit that without any mpg loss. I have noticed since day 1 the way the truck responds, which was not bad but there is a difference that is not imaginary.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by KevinOK

Well I've tracked my mpg since I bought my pickup new and after about the first 12K miles or so milage leveled out and has stayed steady since.

The original plugs had right at 60K and looked to be in excellent shape.


It is interesting that non-ethenol gas on the highway does have better mpg even if only marginal and that all the other tracks about the same.

The more peppy response and more specifically in hauling some loads in hilly terrain compared to original plugs seems to be the real benefit that without any mpg loss. I have noticed since day 1 the way the truck responds, which was not bad but there is a difference that is not imaginary.

60K on OEM Plugs!? You realize they are suposed to be changed at 30k? Im sure the gaps were WAY out of spec at 60K.....

[KevinOK]

Yes I realize the 30K requirement, I thought I had Iridiums in mine, but upon closer inspection my bad.

Actually all my original plugs had .40 gaps or real close to it, they were/are in great shape.

[HankB]

Originally Posted by chris4x4

Useing a little bit of Anti-Sieze on the new Plug, Install the new Plug:





Thread the new plug in by hand. DO NOT cross thread the plug. Torque the Plug to 15 ft-lbs.

Hi Chris,
Nice write-up with lots of great pictures. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

I'm curious about one aspect of this. Is anti-seize recommended by Toyota?

Also I would characterize what I see in the picture as a lot. Most of that - probably 99% - will be pushed out and form a ring around the base of the plug as you screw it in where it will do no good.

If anti-seize is not specified by Toyota, be aware that it will affect the results of tightening to a specified torque. Because the anti-seize acts as a lubricant, the same torque results in greater tension on the threads.

best,
hank

Edit: Interesting note - the plugs on my Taco are replaced every 30K miles while the ones in my Matrix are supposed to be good for 120K miles.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by HankB

Hi Chris,
Nice write-up with lots of great pictures. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

I'm curious about one aspect of this. Is anti-seize recommended by Toyota?

Also I would characterize what I see in the picture as a lot. Most of that - probably 99% - will be pushed out and form a ring around the base of the plug as you screw it in where it will do no good.

If anti-seize is not specified by Toyota, be aware that it will affect the results of tightening to a specified torque. Because the anti-seize acts as a lubricant, the same torque results in greater tension on the threads.

best,
hank

Edit: Interesting note - the plugs on my Taco are replaced every 30K miles while the ones in my Matrix are supposed to be good for 120K miles.

I have never had an issue with the amount of anti sieze I have used on the plugs. But you do have a good point, if too much is used. The owners manual dsent state to use anti sieze, but it is required.

[Jacobz]

Just joined to Thank chris4x4 for an awesome, money saving write up. I just finished my spark plug change following your write up to the tee. Except for the first part since my 4Runner had the TRD intake so the spark plug is already exposed except for the little stuff on the driver side.

A BIG THANK YOU! And im glad i ran into this forum "Tacomaworld.com" searching how-to change my spark plug on my 4Runner 1GR-FE. In this tight economy, you'll find ways to save a buck or two. Dealership is asking $200 to change my plug, and with chris4x4 write up i only spent $32 for the plugs, anti-seize and a $10 10" 3/8" drive extension.

The old plugs had 58k miles on them and the gap were at 0.055"-0.060". I'll post pictures of the old plugs, and i confirmed that the driver side has the NGK and Denso on the passenger side. Im not a mechanic, but if you can change your engine oil, you can change your plugs.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by Jacobz

Just joined to Thank chris4x4 for an awesome, money saving write up. I just finished my spark plug change following your write up to the tee. Except for the first part since my 4Runner had the TRD intake so the spark plug is already exposed except for the little stuff on the driver side.

A BIG THANK YOU! And im glad i ran into this forum "Tacomaworld.com" searching how-to change my spark plug on my 4Runner 1GR-FE. In this tight economy, you'll find ways to save a buck or two. Dealership is asking $200 to change my plug, and with chris4x4 write up i only spent $32 for the plugs, anti-seize and a $10 10" 3/8" drive extension.

Glad to hear! Welcome to the Forum!

[619Tacoma]

Chris,

Thanks for your write up!! Just changed the spark plugs on my 07 truck this weekend. 58K miles and i bought my truck with 26K miles. I still had not changed the plugs till now. They were still the original plugs!!!!!!! The gaps were way off. The truck felt way smoother after the change.

Good and thorough write up.
Thanks!

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by 619Tacoma

Chris,

Thanks for your write up!! Just changed the spark plugs on my 07 truck this weekend. 58K miles and i bought my truck with 26K miles. I still had not changed the plugs till now. They were still the original plugs!!!!!!! The gaps were way off. The truck felt way smoother after the change.

Good and thorough write up.
Thanks!

Glad to help

[The tacoman]

Great write up, very easy to follow. Just finished changing out my spark plugs. Truck has 42000 miles on it and the gaps were all at least .046 and up to .055 on my old ones. So I know that your truck will run better and saves gas, but will you actually notice a change in the mpg or is it so small of a difference that you won't notice anything. I have only run 2 tanks through this truck so I won't know one way or the other.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by The tacoman

Great write up, very easy to follow. Just finished changing out my spark plugs. Truck has 42000 miles on it and the gaps were all at least .046 and up to .055 on my old ones. So I know that your truck will run better and saves gas, but will you actually notice a change in the mpg or is it so small of a difference that you won't notice anything. I have only run 2 tanks through this truck so I won't know one way or the other.

You may see an increase. I generally have seen 1 to 2 mpg difference when a plug change is made, but that also depends on teh condition of the plugs that were changed.

[Jacobz]

ngk 1 is the one nearest on the driver side, counting clockwise.

These plugs were pulled out after 58k miles on my 1GR-FE 4Runner.
NGK 1


NGK 2


NGK 3


DENSO 4


DENSO 5


DENSO 6 - nearest to the passenger side.

[mitiko]

you reemplace by the same or a different brand , passager site need a iridum?

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by mitiko

you reemplace by the same or a different brand , passager site need a iridum?

Replace with the OEM Denso plugs for best performance

[Jacobz]

Originally Posted by mitiko

you reemplace by the same or a different brand , passager site need a iridum?

yes, I replaced all six with Denso plugs. Looking at those old plugs, Denso seems to be in best shape.

[mitiko]

is not for the position close to the engine.

[chris4x4]

Originally Posted by mitiko

is not for the position close to the engine.

What?

[MassTaco]

Originally Posted by Jacobz

ngk 1 is the one nearest on the driver side, counting clockwise.

These plugs were pulled out after 58k miles on my 1GR-FE 4Runner.
NGK 1

Looks like you may have a valve stem seal issue on the cylinder the NGK 1 was in. There's lots of soot on the insulator and lots of oil on the threads all the way up to the crush washer. Does the engine consume any oil?

[Jacobz]

Originally Posted by MassTaco

Looks like you may have a valve stem seal issue on the cylinder the NGK 1 was in. There's lots of soot on the insulator and lots of oil on the threads all the way up to the crush washer. Does the engine consume any oil?

The thing with the dip stick on the 4R, its hard to read. As far as consumption goes, maybe a little bit, nothing major is observed.

Is there a way to correct this (valve stem seal issue)?