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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Mar 7, 2010 at 4:16 PM
    #241
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    Just finished mine up, thanks for the awesome write-up Chris.. it was spot on! The only thing that I found to help me out a bit was using a small flathead to help pull the tabs up on the ignition wire clips... made pulling them off a breeze (minus the damn radiator side drivers lol). Looks like overall it's burning pretty clean, keeping in mind I redline it (well as much as the auto will allow heh) every day.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now on to the annoying cabin fan clicking sound! lol...

    Also note, took me about 4 hours or so (interruptions, drinks, ect) do do plugs, oil change, and clean out my k&n. Took my time and I'm paranoid with the ceramic when taking out the plugs and dropping them in. I fully expect to be able to do the plugs in about 1.5hr or less next time... easily.
     
  2. Mar 13, 2010 at 3:19 PM
    #242
    J Mann

    J Mann New Member

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    Just go through changing my plugs, stupid stealership told me that they were good for 100K miles. I had to argue with the parts guy to sell me the new plugs. The Denso plugs were in pretty good shape but the gap on the NGK's were starting to open up, .050. Thanks for posting this, it made the job easy.
     
  3. Mar 14, 2010 at 5:22 AM
    #243
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    So at what mileage is everybody changing the plugs ? The manual says 100K and I'm coming up on 30K which is when I would think it's a good time to start thinking about it along with all the other 30k sh-t. I'm doing fluids today at the North Jersey Mod day. I hold off on plug til the weather is mo betta.

     
  4. Mar 14, 2010 at 7:59 AM
    #244
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    The 2.7 plugs are good for 100K, according to the FSM.
     
  5. Mar 14, 2010 at 10:46 AM
    #245
    SwampThing07

    SwampThing07 Well-Known Member

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    did this yesterday. Everything was fine till the last plug. Somehow the white porcelin part on the top of the old plug broke off while taking it out. Well the pieces stayed in the hole so I had to get them out. Got some good advice from my uncle who is a mechanic. I took long screwdriver put some wheel bearing grease on it so the larger pieces would stick to it. I then cranked the motor over a couple of times without the spark plug in to blow out the rest. Put it all back together and everything seems fine so far. Had a very big scare with this!
     
  6. Mar 14, 2010 at 10:50 AM
    #246
    carmellocafe

    carmellocafe Begin With The End In Mind.

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    :eek:! That would scare me too. Hope it all turns out alright in the long run.
     
  7. Mar 14, 2010 at 3:16 PM
    #247
    Workman

    Workman Well-Known Member

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    When I do the plugs, is it important to get the torque wrench? I change a ton of chainsaw plugs all summer and have done plugs in other vehicles....but none with the aluminum heads. I know not to just crank em down and be gentle once there in there, just spooked about not being 100% "15 ft/lbs"

    On a side note, what torque wrench would be a good one, on a budget.
     
  8. Mar 14, 2010 at 3:23 PM
    #248
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    If your good enough to feel when the crush washer seats, then you should be fine. Keep in mind, you need to feel that while applying torque to the plug. Not many people can do that. If too much torque is applied to the plug, the head can strip. Then, You need to remove the head, and Helicoil it. Not enough torque, and you risk the plug not sealing the cumbustian chamber correctly, and getting Blow By, or blowing the plug out of the head entirely. Use a quality calibrated torque wrench.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2010 at 4:51 PM
    #249
    Workman

    Workman Well-Known Member

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    Right on chris4x4, thanks for the info! Guess I might have to pick one up when I can get to town that sells the denso's. With the money I'll save by doing it myself, guess I can afford one I can use over and over.
    Digital torque wrench or regular will be next decision.
     
  10. Mar 17, 2010 at 6:54 AM
    #250
    Lukin4snow

    Lukin4snow New Member

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    I've got an 06' 1GR-FE, V-6 and did the spark plug change today. 95,094 miles on truck with the factory plugs in it. As noted by many, NGK's (LFR6C) on the exhasut side, Denso (K20HR-U11) on the intake. I used the Denso plugs bought from my dealer (Toyota #90919-01235) $5.06 ea, in both sides. The plugs certainly showed their age, but I noticed the NKG's were significantly more worn than the Denso plugs. The job took a little more than an hour. My dealer quoted me a price of $178. to do the job, I did it for $32.18 with the sales tax... Chris 4X4's pictorial instruction thread was fantastic!
     
  11. Mar 17, 2010 at 8:43 AM
    #251
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Welcome to TW! :)
     
  12. Mar 17, 2010 at 9:07 AM
    #252
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    :)
     
  13. Mar 17, 2010 at 9:29 AM
    #253
    Biff

    Biff What could go wrong?

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    I know you did this a long time ago, but damn that is a good write up. I can't believe all the shit you need to remove and or set aside. I remember when i owned my 67 Camaro. It was a 350 and it was simple, Engine block, heads, headers, starter, fan belts, manifold, carburetor, air cleaner, rad and oil pan. To change the plugs all you needed was a ratchet and spark plug socket. Ahh the good old days. My wife's last car an 01 Jetta - you couldn't even see the engine there were so many covers and intakes.

    As always - great to read your stuff Chris, although with 2 little kids i doubt i will have any spare time to do this myself.
     
  14. Mar 17, 2010 at 10:37 AM
    #254
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Thanks man! :)
     
  15. Mar 20, 2010 at 12:56 PM
    #255
    THExBUSxDRIVER

    THExBUSxDRIVER Victory is reserved...

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    Wow I like this I'm at 39,000 right now(overdue) so I'm just gunna do it today. Going to head to the dealership and get the plugs in about an hour. Seeing as I know some mechanics and am always changing plugs on my 5.0, this shouldnt be too hard, just a little different.
     
  16. Mar 20, 2010 at 1:31 PM
    #256
    docbrown

    docbrown Well-Known Member

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    Ditto on this being a great write up. Changed the plugs on mine two weeks ago and this writeup was a huge help! Thanks Chris! :bowdown:
     
  17. Mar 24, 2010 at 1:08 PM
    #257
    Saltlife

    Saltlife Member

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    I may be mistaken but are these copper core plugs? I was under the assumption that all newer vehicles were using platinum or iridium
     
  18. Mar 24, 2010 at 7:04 PM
    #258
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Only if the ignition is designed for Platinum or iridium plugs. The plugs on the 1GR-FE are Nickle/copper.
     
  19. Mar 26, 2010 at 8:52 AM
    #259
    Trigger

    Trigger Well-Known Member

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    Great Write up. Nice job
     
  20. Mar 26, 2010 at 9:18 AM
    #260
    LeadFootCaliKid

    LeadFootCaliKid It's a work in progress.

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    Very good write up. I did this last week with almost no problems (other than bloody knuckles). You know it's a good write up when you don't have to leave this page at all to find other information you need.
     

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