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How To: Spark Plug Change (1 GR-FE)

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Old 08-04-2013, 08:24 AM   #1161
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Finally changed my plugs out today and it was super easy following this write up! Some on the driver side was a little bit of a pain though. The denso's looked much better than the NKG's. the NKG'S were also a lot harder to break loose.
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:16 PM   #1162
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Got around to it a few weeks ago (July 23rd)... Bought NGK Iriduim IX or something like that. I honestly can not tell a difference. My plugs were the originals with 89K miles on them (NGK and Denso's).



Gas mileage has been relatively the same (the very high and very low MPG is when I stopped monitoring gas mileage and restarted.)
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:36 PM   #1163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyWithCamera View Post
Got around to it a few weeks ago (July 23rd)... Bought NGK Iriduim IX or something like that. I honestly can not tell a difference. My plugs were the originals with 89K miles on them (NGK and Denso's).

[*IMG]

Gas mileage has been relatively the same (the very high and very low MPG is when I stopped monitoring gas mileage and restarted.)
Your old plugs actually look quite good - much better than my original plugs did with similar mileage on the truck. How's the gap on the old plugs? The one in the pic looks a bit over, though hard to tell in pics.

If you didn't disconnect the battery when you changed them out you might not see any difference for a while. Give the computer time to re-learn the engine. If you're looking for MPG gains from maintenance at that mileage, it's worth checking your air filter and throttle body as well as I saw some improvements after cleaning mine out.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:22 AM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizo View Post
Your old plugs actually look quite good - much better than my original plugs did with similar mileage on the truck. How's the gap on the old plugs? The one in the pic looks a bit over, though hard to tell in pics.

If you didn't disconnect the battery when you changed them out you might not see any difference for a while. Give the computer time to re-learn the engine. If you're looking for MPG gains from maintenance at that mileage, it's worth checking your air filter and throttle body as well as I saw some improvements after cleaning mine out.
The gap was pretty big in the old ones, That's the one that looked the worse... I didn't disconnect the battery but gave it a few days to re-adjust (~100 miles) until I started checking the MPG's again. The air filter (TRD 1st gen intake) was cleaned not long ago... How ever, I did run it without the filter cover for a while and put it back on the same time I changed the spark plugs so that might be why it didn't get much if any improvement. I'll take it off and run it for a week starting tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. Never checked the throttle body either...
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:41 AM   #1165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyWithCamera View Post
The gap was pretty big in the old ones, That's the one that looked the worse... I didn't disconnect the battery but gave it a few days to re-adjust (~100 miles) until I started checking the MPG's again. The air filter (TRD 1st gen intake) was cleaned not long ago... How ever, I did run it without the filter cover for a while and put it back on the same time I changed the spark plugs so that might be why it didn't get much if any improvement. I'll take it off and run it for a week starting tomorrow and see if there is any improvement. Never checked the throttle body either...
At that mileage you should clean the throttle body and MAFS as well. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...g-2005-v6.html
Make sure you disconnect the battery when you do that. You will see a few miles of the computer being confused after that, but it learns itself again quite quickly.

Haven't a clue about the first gen air filters on a 1GR-FE affecting things, so someone else would have to chime in about that.
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:17 PM   #1166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizo View Post
At that mileage you should clean the throttle body and MAFS as well. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tec...g-2005-v6.html
Make sure you disconnect the battery when you do that. You will see a few miles of the computer being confused after that, but it learns itself again quite quickly.

Haven't a clue about the first gen air filters on a 1GR-FE affecting things, so someone else would have to chime in about that.
Oh cool, Looks easy. Thanks i'll do that later today or some time tomorrow
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:25 AM   #1167
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Ok guys I changed my plugs last week and everything ran fine. Now I noticed when I back up and turn the wheel full lock to the right I have bad vibration/ rattling sound. At first thought my tires were rubbing so I checked everything at full lock and no where near touching. So I'm lost anyone have this kinda thing happen before? Like maybe I didn't tighten something back good? Just in case truck has 5100's on front at 1.75 and 1.5 AAL in back. With 265/75/16 cooper st's. it only does this in reverse though any help would be appreciated
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:26 AM   #1168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland48 View Post
Ok guys I changed my plugs last week and everything ran fine. Now I noticed when I back up and turn the wheel full lock to the right I have bad vibration/ rattling sound. At first thought my tires were rubbing so I checked everything at full lock and no where near touching. So I'm lost anyone have this kinda thing happen before? Like maybe I didn't tighten something back good? Just in case truck has 5100's on front at 1.75 and 1.5 AAL in back. With 265/75/16 cooper st's. it only does this in reverse though any help would be appreciated
doesnt sound like anything that has to do with spark plugs
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:53 AM   #1169
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Coincidental. Maybe a bad bushing on your steering rack?
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:53 AM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland48 View Post
Ok guys I changed my plugs last week and everything ran fine. Now I noticed when I back up and turn the wheel full lock to the right I have bad vibration/ rattling sound. At first thought my tires were rubbing so I checked everything at full lock and no where near touching. So I'm lost anyone have this kinda thing happen before? Like maybe I didn't tighten something back good? Just in case truck has 5100's on front at 1.75 and 1.5 AAL in back. With 265/75/16 cooper st's. it only does this in reverse though any help would be appreciated

Sounds like something in your front end differential.


Jim
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:42 AM   #1171
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My last tacoma I had to replace drivers side front wheel bearing and passenger side cv axle. It doesn't sound anything like them just like a bad vibration cause I've not rubbing
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #1172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleveland48 View Post
My last tacoma I had to replace drivers side front wheel bearing and passenger side cv axle. It doesn't sound anything like them just like a bad vibration cause I've not rubbing
When I put my 5100's on the front (0.85 setting on my 2005) I had bad vibrations but it was going forward (around 40mph). I had to replace the drivers' side front diff CV needle bearing with the East Coast Gear Supply bushing. Fixed it right up. You can check to see how bad the play is by getting under the front of the truck, reach up and push on the axel right where it goes into the front diff (inner CV joint housing). Check both sides, my drivers' side one was pretty bad after the strut change out.

May not be your problem though, seems like its hit or miss if you get that vibration after lifting the front end or not. I thought I'd be okay with as minor of a lift that I did...
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:34 PM   #1173
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Ok thanks I knew some people on here had a bad vibe in the front sometimes. I could not think of what people used to fix that, but when u said east coast gear supply I remembered lol. Thanks for the info though guys I'll see what I can figure out
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Old 08-11-2013, 08:23 PM   #1174
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Good luck on your quest, hope you can sort it out.

I took advantage of some time I had today, and did the old spark plug change out (125k miles), oil change, air filter change, MAF sensor clean, and throttle body clean. Took about 3 hours to do all that, but figured while I had everything apart, it would be a good time to do the other cleaning. I've done the MAF/TB clean before, maybe 90k miles, and they didn't seem that dirty this time, but still got some deposits off.

Love this write up. Moving that bar on the fuel rail was a life saver. Still really tough to get to the connector on the drivers' side front sparker though. So glad I used anti-siege and a torque wrench on the plugs when I've done them. They all came out rather easily. Only one that made me a little nervous, a little squeaky coming out. May not have had enough anti-siege on it. Really coated all threads well this time.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:30 AM   #1175
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Thanks from a newby

Thanks and subscribed!
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #1176
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Changed mine this morning. Took about an hour and a half. Its been a while since I did it last but after changing one plug, I got in to the groove and...done. Thanks for the write-up.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:12 AM   #1177
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Great write up Chris! Couldn't be easier.

Nothing better than spending a Saturday morning wrenching on the Taco.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:21 PM   #1178
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This post helped me out greatly! Replaced my plugs today with OE replacement and it took me about an hour and a half. Not bad. I thought the toughest actually was the front driver side plug.
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Old 09-08-2013, 03:29 AM   #1179
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I changed mine yesterday and was very easy using this thread to refer to. Thanks to chris 4x4 for this thread. Tim
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Old 09-09-2013, 12:19 AM   #1180
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Great write up, just changed mines this pass weekend. And boy am I lucky reading this thread prior to attempting this!
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