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Oil questions

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by vram74, Oct 22, 2014.

  1. Oct 22, 2014 at 9:58 AM
    #1
    vram74

    vram74 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    From reading, I know that hydro-cracked "synthetics", are basically highly refined Dino oil. With this in mind, do these fake synthetics offer the same benefits of better cold startup protection and overall cooler running temp that a true synthetic oil, like Mobile 1 Extended performance offers or are you blowing an extra $10 for nothing? I'm ok spending an extra $10 on an oil change for those two benefits alone, but I don't know about an extra $20 if you have to buy a real synthetic.

    Next question, Is an OEM Toyota filter good for 15k, or even 7.5k if going the M1 Extended route?

    Final question. I've heard that oils containing seal conditioners can actually cause leaks, due to the conditioners swelling the seals. Is there any truth to this and is it advisable to run high mileage branded oils?

    I know I probably should be asking these questions on bobstheoilguy, but I don't feel like creating another account.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2014
  2. Oct 23, 2014 at 6:08 AM
    #2
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Here's my opinion. Whether you truely need a grp IV (true synth) synthetic or a grp III (hydrocracked) oil depends on what OCI you decide to use. Up to 5k, regular dino oil is fine, up to 8k, I would use the grp III oils as they are cheaper. For anything over 8-10k OCI, I would be getting a grp IV oil.

    For the stock filter, I would not press it beyond 6-8k at the most.

    As for M1 EP being grp IV, it's not, it's still predominately a grp III oil with some grp IV and a good additive package.

    For high milage oil, I would not use it unless I was seeing some leaks and wanted to try and see if the conditioners in that oil would seal it up, otherwise just use whatever oil you normally would. Causing leaks,,, some reports that switching to synth at high miles may have cleaned the passages and seal landings enough that leaks started to be seen.
     
  3. Oct 23, 2014 at 6:47 AM
    #3
    vram74

    vram74 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    But do these grp III Hydrocracked Synths offer better startup wear protection than conventional dino oil?
     
  4. Oct 30, 2014 at 6:29 PM
    #4
    Flymaker

    Flymaker Well-Known Member

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    just my 2 cents . I use either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum and change every 5k , I don't run synthetic for the benefit of extending drain intervals but rather for the benefit of the few extra miles per gallon which isn't much and the fact that synthetic is a better lubricant and keeps the motor cleaner ....I would say you could go 6k with a stock filter and M1 or Pennzoil Plat. and be just fine anything more than that I would do a oil test with blackstone labs and see......I don't buy into running more pricey oil and leaving it in for 10k ....the oil's job besides lubricating is taking the combustion byproducts to the filter to be removed , then figure in the hot /cold cycle and the fact that the motor will draw moisture ...I just run a good syn and change at 5k and carry on
     

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