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BRAKE PADS PREMATURE WEAR

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by toyinhawaii, Jan 6, 2015.

  1. Jan 6, 2015 at 2:36 PM
    #1
    toyinhawaii

    toyinhawaii [OP] Well-Known Member

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    About 2 yrs and 25000 miles ago I changed out my pads to the Napa's Adaptive One disc brake pads and now changed them out again 2 weeks ago. Going down a long decline or down from a hill they burn (that brake pad smell). all 4 pads were evenly worn and when I put the new ones in I could push back the cups with a little struggle but they didn't need forced back, I bled the brake lines RR,RL,FR,FL TWICE, . and still noticed on those long down hills its stunk...I don't have any leaks, it doesn't feel like the front is locking up but on free wheeling the front tires they seem not to spin as freely as it should...@ 166k now...do I bleed them in a different way? does the ABS have something to do with it...?:confused:...thanks:notsure:
     
  2. Jan 6, 2015 at 2:40 PM
    #2
    Taco me elmo

    Taco me elmo Here, Eat some paint. Drink some Bleach.

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    What size tire are you running?

    Your stock brakes work best with stock tires and wheels.

    Larger the lift, tires, wheels set up you have the harder your brakes need to work and will wear out way faster.

    I would say replace the rotors to a better brand designed for performance and get better pads designed for performance as well.

    I am running cryo treated slotted rotors and EBC green stuff brake pads.. HUGE improvement over stock in every possible way.
     
  3. Jan 6, 2015 at 3:08 PM
    #3
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering if you ever use your e-brake as the Toyota manual suggests .
    This will keep your rear brakes adjusted which in turn will provide you with better braking overall and lessen the wear on your front pads
     
  4. Jan 7, 2015 at 10:00 AM
    #4
    toyinhawaii

    toyinhawaii [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Taco...275/75/16..Federal Couragia M/T, 3" lift, had the rotors turned at the same time. i'll look into the cryo treated slotted rotors and EBC green stuff brake pads...thanks

    Gear....no, i'll look at the SM though..from what you just ask would I assume it would be pull it out a notch or 2 and let it ride like that? In the 5 1/2 yrs since I've own the truck I've not had to replace the rear shoes I periodically check them and they still look about 70-80% still there..thanks
     
  5. Jan 7, 2015 at 10:10 AM
    #5
    Taco me elmo

    Taco me elmo Here, Eat some paint. Drink some Bleach.

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    Any upgraded Rotor will be fine, I went with the cryo treated ones but they are far more expensive.

    I stand behind the EBC green stuff as I have them on my 2002 Tacoma as well as my 2006 Acura TSX.

    Upgrading your brake lines to longer steel braided is a win win as it allows more room for bigger lifts or flexing as well as being a stronger tighter flow for better pedal response.

    For the rear you should take off the brake drum housing and clean the hell out of the pads with brake cleaner and check for uneven wear.

    You may also depending on your rear lift need to relocate your Brake proportioning valve to a higher location to allow the rear brakes to engage easier.
     
  6. Jan 7, 2015 at 10:27 AM
    #6
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Not familiar with that particular pad, but you can learn a lot about brakes on www.stoptech.com

    Lots of glitz, bling and useless stuff sold in the brake world, just like everywhere else.

    While I don't know the specific solution needed in your case, I will offer this tidbit.

    In the world of Spec Miata racing, they have to run stock sized/style brakes, but with pads and fluid of choice. So they typically run NAPA rotors ($20), aggressive pads of varying brands and high boiling point/low moisture absorption fluid.

    Those of us who raced autox use the same rotors, a milder pad, and a similar quality fluid.

    Those of us running LSx or 5.0 Ford motors in the Miata used larger rotors, larger and upgraded calipers (more pots), appropriate pads for the use of the car, and a good quality fluid. Worked fine on track days working at supercar speeds.

    What you need is an actual diagnosis of what's wrong for how the vehicle is equipped and used, then a solution that fits that need. The tip off you give is what sounds like overheating front brakes. Generally that means

    A) a flaw in the system, bound caliper, etc. (which you seem to have eliminated) or underperforming rear brakes

    B) too much brake use for the circumstance, ie driver error. Very common in new racer situations, maybe not here.

    C) incorrect grade of pads for the situation

    D) undersized brakes for the situation

    Let us know how you resolve it.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2015 at 10:31 AM
    #7
    Taco me elmo

    Taco me elmo Here, Eat some paint. Drink some Bleach.

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  8. Jan 7, 2015 at 12:22 PM
    #8
    toyinhawaii

    toyinhawaii [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Taco...for the rear shoes, they're all evenly worn and routinely cleaned..i think i'll go ahead and extend them out a notch ....the drums came off without any real resistance ..but they weren't sloppy.
    As far as the BPV and lines, to my understanding I should be ok @ my 3" lift..if I go to a 6" then yes i'll need to take care of those..

    Clearwater... I think may be mostly your A) "underperforming rear brakes"..i'll start there first.

    .....thanks all
     

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