Wiring eLocker Swap with Aftermarket Switch

I swapped my open diff for an Elocker diff a month or so ago in my 07 d-cab. Thought I would pass along my learning for anyone considering this swap. Turning wrenches is the easy part, IMO.

In my setup, I am wired from an aftermarket switch, straight to the actuator - no OEM locker harness or brain. I also spliced in to the instrument panel wire that would light up the rear diff lock indicator light in the dash.

I used this diagram from 12voltguy with a generic no-lamp, 6 blade DPDT switch to first make sure it would work. The LED indicated in this diagram wasnt used since I wired straight to the instrument cluster LED.




Once i had it working, I got a Carling DPDT ON-OFF-ON, dual LED, Contura V switch from OTRATTW. Blue LED on bottom is always on, red LED on top is on when switch is in top ON position. This is a 10 blade switch, all 10 blades are used for this. OTRATTW doesnt have this exact config on their website - DPDT, Dual LED, top RED, Bottom Blue (independent), but they are very responsive by phone and email.

Pin numbers:

top
8----7
1----4
2----5
3----6
10---9
bottom

How I wired it:

1 - Accessory power in
2 - Green wire, actuator motor
3- Green-Black, actuator fork position switch (locked)
4- Green-Yellow, actuator fork position switch (unlocked)
5- Green-Red, actuator motor
6- Power in
7 - To ground (negative pole for top LED)
8- Jump/connect to #3. #8 is (+) pole for top LED. #3 is hot when locker is locked
9- To ground (negative pole for bottom LED, always on)
10 - Jump/connect to #1 or #6 for constant power when accessory on. #10 is (+) pole for bottom LED.

**To light up the indicator light on the instrument cluster, connect Blue-Yellow on actuator switch at rear diff to C10 connector, pin #14, Blue-Yellow wire on instrument cluster. Instrument cluster has 2 connectors, the one on the right (passenger side of cluster) is C10. Sending ground to this wire lights the factory dash light. It doesnt matter if your truck didnt come with an elocker, the wire and LED on the cluster will still be there. (my truck was originally Prerunner base) As a side note, if your truck isnt 4x4, the wires for 4x4 and 4lo are not in the C10 connector, but the LEDs for each are on the instrument cluster.

While I was at it, I also replaced my switches for front, rear and bed lights with OTRATTW SPST LED red top, blue bottom COntura V's that match the elocker switch.

 

@Jerez what do you think?

 

Dope
Let’s do it.

 

Why a dpdt?

 

The solenoid needs +/- to open and -/+ to close. You cant just cut power like a single on off. Have to reverse polarity. Could use a regular on off switch and some relays also i suppose

 

I would question whether the sliding contacts in the E locker assembly are heavy enough to carry the current draw of the motor. Seems like it would be better to do it with relays. Use the switch and E locker contacts to trigger 2 relays.

 

Little old but. How did this holdup for you? I'm going to do the same thing for my 4runner.

 

Done correct you should have no issues .

The critical part is knowing for sure it is unlocked before going on the hard surface roads.

I would put a fail safe to make sure. The factory system has quite a few safeties

Any questions when you get to doing this drop me a PM